Thinking on getting a new shooter for the hols…Currently have a Sony RX100 which although good is limited by it’s lens. So between a Compact system type (Fuji X-M1? Sony A6000) or one of the new high end bridges (Sony RX10 or Lumix FZ1000). Wan’t one camera that will do it all really yet allow me to develop photography as a hobby. Thoughts?? Anyone go one these?

What’s up with the lens on the RX100?

I’ve just gone the other way, fed up of carrying an SLR around I bought a Lumix TZ60, figuring that if I’m gong to carry something around it may as well be small. As you’re going the other way I’d say go with an SLR, with a bridge you’re about 2/3rds of the weight there with a big chunk of versatility (i.e. lens changes)not being available.

I find that the 2 cameras complement each other nicely – I still like getting the SLR out, it’s just that I tend to get more photos with teh Lumix as I always have it with me.

I’ve recently bought a Lumix DMC G5 and i’m VERY pleased with it. a 45-150mm lense is a great addition as well.
About the same size as a bridge but with all the doings of a SLR

Wan’t one camera that will do it all really yet allow me to develop photography as a hobby. Thoughts?? Anyone go one these?

A do-it-all camera is a mythical beast, akin to the do-it-all-bicycle. Most photographers have at least one SLR (or other interchangeable lens system) and one compact (either fixed lens or zoom)

What are your main considerations (apart from lens as you say) – portability, cost, sensor size etc? I pursued photography as a hobby for years with just a DSLR and one prime lens. As time went on I went through a bunch of compacts, finally settled on Llumix TZ20, which takes great (not stellar) shots with a lot of manual control – yet mostly ended up using it mostly for refereference shots for paintings and experimenting with Snapseed. Manual controls on compacts tend to be fiddly and put people off experiementing. I hear the Ricoh GR digital range is very usable, yet limited with a fixed lens. Fixed lens is a great discipline though, and a small compact with snap focus is probably unbeatable for street photography. all depends what and where you want to shoot…

From what I’ve seen many people would consider the RX100 as close as possible to a do it all camera so I’m wondering if the OP would prefer a moon on a stick? 🙂

grum – the lens on the RX100 is small. No performance issue – just limited in terms of light capturing ability and zoom

as has been pointed out above, every camera is a compromise, (just like bikes, cars etc)
i will add to this, the best picture you can capture will be with the camera you have with you at the time, no point having a super duper dslr at home for example.
when i went on my first holiday abroad a couple of years ago, i took my slr with me, then left it in the hotel for the duration, as the thought of dealing with that plus the other inevitable faff made me worry about dropping it etc.
as a consequence, my holiday shots were all taken on a compact.
and bluntly: they werent as good.

now that ive read this back, it doesnt seem that helpful.

Olympus Stylus 1, 28 – 300mm f2.8 across the entire range, OM-D features and quality.
Or the Stylus SP100-EE?

That Olympus looks good albeit it is lower resolution and smaller sensor than the RX10. Quite a bit cheaper though!

In saying all of the above…I still want a Fujix100s. And a Ricoh GRD. Are your needs tied to a zoom/telephoto lens?
I read good things about the NikonD3300 with included kit lens, surely all one would need for a developing hobby/hoilday snapper?

I had a Panasonic FZ38 but recently bought a Pansonic G6 with 14-140mm lens to take on holiday.

More control options/features, better picture quality with much more success rate, and only a little bigger than the FZ38, just about fitting in the same Lowepro Apex 100 AW case that I used for the FZ38.

They were selling them cheap on the panasonic outlet on ebay but I don’t see them there anymore.

Also gone for the G6 – more than a compact, but so much smaller than a DSLR. Also has a ‘viewfinder’ which means that it can be used in bright sunlight.

Thanks guys – yes did look at the D3300 – nice looking camera but a tad big perhaps. Not specifically after large zoom lens – however the flexibility of having one on hand is tempting..

Also has a ‘viewfinder’ which means that it can be used in bright sunlight.

yes, I find I use that most of the time.

Also bought this lightweight travel tripod to go with it, which fits nicely in the asymmetric lowepro passport sling bag :

http://www.amazon.co.uk/SIRUI-T-025X-Tripod-Ballhead-Carbon/dp/B00AZTCHK2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ph_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=06KSXMZXSN8QBQ5NJYG8

ended up with a Sony RX10 – pretty happy with it so far..

Blimey. Just looked that camera up. Looks very nice. Pricey though, but then you are getting a decent zoom with a constant 2.8 aperture!

Bridge cameras are the most heavily compromised in terms of lensquality and overall performance,as they’re designed as jack of all trades cameras. That’s not to say they’re not good, but the 24-200 zoom of the RX10, for example, is never going to match the quality of any prime, or fast shorter range zooms. But for holiday memories, they’re probably perfect for most people.

Using a full frame DSLR has shown mejust how big the gap is to compact system ad ‘bridge’ cameras. Personally, I’d go for a compact system camera with as large a sensor as possible, as it’ll have better low-light capability and potential lens quality than a bridge camera, because shooting in low light is more important to me than a long zoom. I carry a Fjui X20 as a ‘pocket’ camera, as it’s small and light andcan go anywhere. A ‘bridge’ camera would be just too big for this purpose.

stoffel – I guess no one is disputing that a full frame SLR with a bag full of prime lenses would be better (and considerably more expensive). I guess for many folk it is about having a camera WITH YOU which delivers good results in 95% of scenarios. What is acceptable vs what is best….

[/img]

Well, I meant that a CSC with a prime might be a better quality option than a bridge camera with a mega-zoom. The way to better photography is though developing better photographic skills, not having ‘al the gear’ or a ‘do it all’ camera.

Well that was the other option..A6000 or GX7. Completely agree that it is as much about the skills as the kit! Making not taking photos. The RX10 is a step up for me from the RX100 which was excellent. I tend to lose interest in hobbies very quickly! If I outgrow the RX10 then maybe this time next year I will invest in CSC with good lenses. I did pretty extensive research and decided that the kit lenses are often not so good….

[url=https://flic.kr/p/ozSs58]Lewis 300[/url] by MrHuggis, on Flickr]pHOTO[/url]

I guess no one is disputing that a full frame SLR with a bag full of prime lenses would be better (and considerably more expensive)

I will. I’ve got a full frame camera and a bag of primes. They’re hugely demanding and impractical.

Suggesting a full frame camera and a bag of primes to learn with is as useful as suggesting an F1 car to learn to drive in.

That RX10 looks ideal, if you can get past the cost.

5thElefant – Member

That RX10 looks ideal, if you can get past the cost

Yep. That was my thought.
Camera’s like this are almost tempting me away from my D80, and I suspect the noise levels of that RX10 in low light perhaps surpass it.

stoffel – Member
Bridge cameras are the most heavily compromised in terms of lensquality and overall performance,as they’re designed as jack of all trades cameras. That’s not to say they’re not good, but the 24-200 zoom of the RX10, for example, is never going to match the quality of any prime, or fast shorter range zooms. But for holiday memories, they’re probably perfect for most people.

Using a full frame DSLR has shown mejust how big the gap is to compact system ad ‘bridge’ cameras.

Of course they are compromised as they are trying to shoehorn in a lot of features. But, increase the budget and some of those compromises will disappear.
A lot of people don’t want to pixel peep and aren’t concerned about the Nth degree of quality; they want a versatile camera that can take decent shots. They don’t want to carry around ‘fast primes’ or ‘fast shorter range zooms’; they just want a camera that takes decent pics in most situations for minimum faff.

My mate has got a full frame SLR and it highlighted to me how over the top they are for 99% of people.
Large and expensive, with even more expensive lenses to get the most out of them. I think his 17-55 2.8 cost about £1100….

I will. I’ve got a full frame camera and a bag of primes. They’re hugely demanding and impractical.
Suggesting a full frame camera and a bag of primes to learn with is as useful as suggesting an F1 car to learn to drive in.

That RX10 looks ideal, if you can get past the cost.

… yes expensive but I guess an equivalent lens alone would cost more (if available) for a system camera.

Looks great! I’m on a slightly different side of the track, starting with a zoom compact (Coolpix) I then bought a DSLR with a 50mm lens and cut teeth on it over a decade or more. Now trying a large sensor zoom compact (RX100). I know I’ll miss a true optical viewfinder as there really is IMO nothing more immersive and involved than framing a shot straight through the lens.

For hobbyists or those after travel/snapshot camera this is an easy thing to source these days with so much on offer at considerably lower prices than early days of digital. Some of my favourite pics were taken on that 2mp Coolpix all those years ago, and working within limitations really does develop a way of ‘seeing’ as much as ways of working with the strenghs and weakness of the chosen system.

With so many processing options available these days it’s nigh on impossible to buy a ‘bad camera’ for over a few hundred quid (if not selling to demanding pixel-peeping clients) – we truly are spoilt for choice. Hope you have fun seeing the world through your Sony, look fwd to seeing more great pics. that one of the sand drift is awesome!

Lumix GX7s are on sale right now. Very good camera – cost, size, picture quality, features. Definitely worth a look.

I have an older GF1 and a few Micro 4/3rd lenses. I think they are great cameras.

Lumix GX7s are on sale right now

Yes and Panasonic was doing a free lens offer also…

Some inspiring stuff (discounting IMHO the freakishly over-HDR’d examples currently in vogue) showcasing the RX10 at the Flickr Pool

If you’re into landscape photography have you looked at a grad filter?

If you’re into landscape photography have you looked at a grad filter?

no not looked into that yet. The RX10 has a built in ND filter and I have bought Hoya Pro polarizer and UV filters (the later namely to protect the lens). Do you recommend?

Do you recommend?

Absolutely, very few downsides. Of course if shooting RAW you can pull back a lot of sky detail, or even use in the camera software to make bracketed exposures and combine as one image. But a grad filter can render stunning skies and correctly exposed foreground without the ‘HDR painting’ effect. Obvious downside is having tree branches or outcrops appearing darker in the grad section, but with skill can usually do a better job with a grad than without.

You may be interested in The Lightweight Photographer blog for such stuff, and they discovered an unwanted effect of the RX10 where the camera’s white lettering reflects onto the lens, worth knowing (saved by black tape!)

Thanks – will look into!

Sky has often come out well just the polarizer and some basic messing in picasa! (yes I will need to looking other software also). These shot are in jpg…yes the land / foreground seems too dark – so a grad filter would fix this?

[url=https://flic.kr/p/om8Dpu]Brimmond Hill[/url] by MrHuggis, on Flickr]Brimmond [/url]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/om8GAi]image[/url] by MrHuggis, on Flickr]Brimmond 2[/url]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/ozTsDW]Lewis 184[/url] by MrHuggis, on Flickr]Suliven[/url]

Yes, made for that exact reason. ND grad filter will be either hard step (ideal for seascapes or maybe even your pic of the heather as the skyline is fairly flat) or soft step (ie more useful for your mountain shot) and of a specific density. I’d recommend researching a medium density soft step to get started. Placement of the grad line in the shot is essential for success. Regular ND or polarising filters will darken the whole scene as you’ve discovered. Expect weirdism if using grads for stitched panos though! Not sure about a soft step grad on a tripod for a sweep pano…got me thinking now…

Regular ND or polarising filter will darken the whole scene.

No it won’t, it’ll lower the shutter speed or open the aperture. The scene will be exposed the same as it would without it.

No it won’t, it’ll lower the shutter speed or open the aperture. The scene will be exposed the same as it would without it.

Sorry wasn’t clear, meant that literally a non-grad filter will (physically) reduce the amount of light entering the lens over the whole frame, forcing sometimes compromised exposure to suit. A polariser is transformative isn’t it? The one essential thing to keep in your bag other than yr camera 🙂

I am glad I have the G6 as I have a hot shoe mount and can use a decent flash indoors, rather than the flash on the FZ38.

The indirect flash disturbs our new kitten a lot less when I take photos of him.

I was thinking about getting the Panasonic 12-35/f2.8 lens but the longer zoom is useful for kitten photos so I don’t either have to get too close when he is playing or resort to cropping.