Hi
Background-ok ,so im helping a friend get a bike built,hes aked me to get it built up from bare frame that he picked up ages ago.
Been powder coated before he bought it.
We think its a orange 222 with the seperate brake link arm,the one thats mounted on rose joints.
The trouble is that the actual brake arm where the disc brake is mounted looks like the work of someone else other than orange.
When measuring up the rear wheel spacing it looked like the 135 x 12 mm rear wheel version-trouble is the brake arm is holding the wheel out of central position.
Ok-theres very little on the net showing detailed specs on the rear ends/axles.
Do you have a good inside knowledge of these older orange models or know of someone that knows these bikes inside out??
Please if you have info that will help then please get in touch,id like to send some pics so i can decide if this arm is genuine orange,if not it might need modifying so i need someone with the same bike or info so i can compare dimensions of the bearings/spacer in the arm itself.
Please help and i will be most grateful.
Thankyou Mark
email- marksigley1972 at gmail dot com
alternatively happy to take texts on:0 double7 25617133

hi
think ive just found the answer-some guy had same problem in 2011!!
think the old 2002/2003 frame would only take hope bulb hub-other people have run 150×12 hope pro 2 with a spacer left off on one side.

I used to have one of these back in the day, 222 then 223 with the breaking arm.

It rattled like hell and made little to no difference if I remember correctly – did look trick though. Pro tip, use teflon washers to quieten it down or it’ll drive your mate insane rattling with all that box section.

I think you used to have to run either a Hope or Hadley hub and the braking arm took the place of the non drive side spacer. Measure it up without the arm in place to check the hub width required, I pretty sure it was 150x12mm spacing.

Although it looks like a 135 should work with the spacers it actually give completely screwed spacing and the wheel will be country mile out.

Cheers-good advice
very old frame so hard to find info,yes when i measured this up it appeared to be a 135×12 rear end width frameset.
now i know its not that at all,already bought mavic deemax wheels,135 rear to go on,now found another wheel- 150mm – that will match so cassette will finally be in the right place,may have to put a counterbore in the collar that goes into the brake arm-just to take the excess width.
being mavic deemax it would be more awkward to rebuild the rear wheel with another hub-let alone how difficult it would be to find the correct one.
its been a right pain in the bum to be fair!!

where did you fit the teflon washers-on the rose joint mounts??

Glad to be of some help!

I think I bought a sheet of the stuff and cut the washers by hand, they didn’t last for ever but did the job. I think I wedged them where ever I could that’d prevent rattling, probably a bit of trial and error to get it right.

http://ride.io/forum/index.php/topic,237153.0.html

Probably less faff to sell it and buy a frame without the brake arm (a newer Orange?)

Looks from that thread it’s a Sun Ringle hub as the alternate, not Hadley as I suggested earlier.

In fairness if you’ve already picked up a 150mm Hope Bulb it’s not much of a faff.

Saying that, having owned most generations of 22X with and without IBS I’d have gone for a 224 (without floating arm) which can be found cheap as chips these days. I found it more of gimmick than anything else, it sort of worked but was mostly sort of crap.