So this is the second tubeless ready EXO tyre that’s split it’s sidewalls well before the tread has even started to wear. What to buy?

I’ve got a Hans Dampf on the front which I never ever notice is even there.. It’ll be too burly for the back?

Hans Dampf in the pacestar compound makes a fine rear tyre.

would be interested to know at what pressure your running your tires at and the terain?

35 and mixed

I’ve just changed away from hand dampf (in fact given up on schwable now) on the rear after several years of using them as they’ve become too fragile (either I’ve started riding heavier / harder or they’ve changed something). Kept putting holes in the top of the carcass too big for tubeless to seal and when they flatted they they woul end up putting a small tear near the bead making them non repairable for tubeless. Last set new set of HD and MM lasted two rides in the Peak District before being trashed. Doesn’t answer your question, but I would give them a wide berth if you are a heavier / hard rider on rocky trails – shame as I really like the grip on the HD and magic mary

Bontrager Team Issue XR4 or XR3, not had a problem with them in 2 1/2 years.

IMO the best carcasses for Peak District riding are Schwalbe’s Supergravity, Specialized’s Grid and WTB’s TCS Tough. Running all of them at the moment. Don’t yet have enough experience of the Conti Apex Protection that’s on the Der Baron Projekt, but that’ll be run all winter.

The Spesh are the cheapest and I’m beginning to form the opinion that they’re the best compromise of weight/strength/toughness.

I’m running a Hans Dampf with a super gravity casing on the rear for my Peaks bike and I’m a clumsy git. Does the job no prob

After going through snakeskin and exo tyres in the cap, I’ve moved to WTB’s tough casing, its heavy. Yes. But they’re solid all around. The Supergravity doesn’t have more protection in the cap, just the sidewalls, so depending on where you puncture, they may not fix your problem.

If you are ripping exo tyres, then snakeskin will be a big no-no

WTB tough, maxxis double down, or schwable super gravity, but they are heavier

I’ve had poor results from conti this year in the Peak. Three side wall failures from the apex protection carcass (trail king 650b x 2.4″). This is on the same terrain as my conti 26″ x 2.4 UST rubber queens which took it no problem for several years and many worn out tyres.

Conti seem to have gone too light for me after dropping the UST specific carcass.

Currently doing well with some e13 tyres though. Expensive and soft so I might save them for holidays and look to the maxxis double down carcass.

I gave up on Exo casings and thought Specialized Grid were the answer, but I kept ripping knobs off. I am now either Specialized or Maxxis dual ply out back. Ride in the Lakes and I am slow and ride without finesse.

Super Gravity would also work.

Specialized tyres are very good in my experience. (Didn’t they poach one of Maxxis’ designers?)

I’ve tried most of them since I used to work in a dealer and I’m still on them even though I have to pay the dreaded RRP.

A Purgatory or Butcher with the Grid casing would surely be a safe place to start. I’m getting a Slaughter next because it looks lethal/fun.

Never tried Specialised. Might give them a whirl

Specialized are good VFM and the grids worth a try but

I’m getting a Slaughter next because it looks lethal/fun.

do you live in the southern hemisphere or are you just slightly unhinged? 🙂

I ran a Slaughter in Grid over the summer, can confirm that it was 99% fun, swopped to the HD when it became lethal a week ago

You’re quite a decent sized lad, aren’t you? Spesh grid casing are decent, and a decent weight too. WTB tough fast casing is the bomb though, absolutely solid tyres, a bit hefty at around a kilo, but for a big ass rocky lakeland descent, I’m not arguing over the weight of a bacon roll.

‘Decent sized lad’. That’s a new one, I’ve been called a big unit too 😆

I can vouch for WTB Tough casings. Been running a Trail Boss for a good while now on the back of my Switchback. Not had a single puncture including trips to Scotland, Wales etc. Highly recommended. The Trail Boss is sketchy in the mud but works on rocky stuff. Maybe I’ll try a Vigilante on the rear over winter but need to be careful with clearance…that’s a different story though.

Never tried Specialised. Might give them a whirl

Hora, I’ve got 3 Butcher Grids and a Slaughter Grid that are used but still plenty of tread left

You can have them for nowt if you want to try before you buy.

A couple had a bit of a wobble when mounted – but may have been wonky rims!

Based in South Manchester if your interested?

‘Decent sized lad’. That’s a new one, I’ve been called a big unit too

I’ve turned over a new ‘polite’ leaf!

EXO sidewalls are like many others, just added protection for single ply. It can still rip though. If you want tougher, go for dual ply. Trade off is it’s much heavier.

Or double down.

Butcher Grid would do the job, or whatever WTB Tough you like the looks of… (even the non-tough WTBs seem fairly durable) HD I found wears pretty fast on the rear, and once the edges come off those square blocks they lose a lot of grip. Not that they’re very grippy in the first place tbh.But a SG HD would be worth a look if you like the tyre.

Beer247 so am I. Are they 650b and do you..drink?

Which Maxxis tyres are you using? I’ve found that the thickness of the exo casing varies across different tread patterns, I.e. ardent race exo has a thinner case than a minion exo.

never had sidewall issues with EXO maxxis in the peak district, ride it all the time and down every rocky descent going, always the sidewalls have been totally solid for me

ive ripped a few knobs/punctures on the beast etc on sub 800 gram rear tyres but anything over 850 (high roller 2 etc) ive never had an issue

I’m not heavy mind at 11 stone ish, also depends on your style of riding etc

infact ive had 3 punctures in 3 years in the peak disctrict, all of which were on light sub 800 gram tyres, first 2 punctures repaired on the trail, and the last one I had I tore a knob off more or less down lockerbrook so tubed it and wrote the tyre off

I’m currently on minion DHR2 rear WT 2.4 at 900 grams (still rolls great) and have just bought a 2.5 WT shorty for up front duties once it gets sloppy

I’m 16 stone

Speed and style also count for a lot. If you really press on things are more likely to go wrong or a bit sketchy and before you know it pffft!

Speed and style also count for a lot. If you really press on things are more likely to go wrong or a bit sketchy and before you know it pffft!

Definitely.

I don’t ride castle crag descent any more as it’s so straight and wide, you have to hit warp speed to make it interesting, and before you know it, the back tyre needs replacing again…

I heavier than you and have had no issues with supergravity HDs in the Peak. Currently running trailstar compound F&R as pacestar tyres were thin on the ground when I last bought some.

Knobs are starting to fall off the rear tyre now though, thankfully have a spare in stock already but I’m hanging on to change it as they’re a complete pain in the backside to get off and on my superstar carbon rims, I’ve snapped a few Pedros tyre levers in the process!