Viewing 12 posts - 41 through 52 (of 52 total)
  • My latest hare brained scheme
  • trail_rat
    Free Member

    Because cannondale threaded alloy steerers were 1 1/4″ OD with relevent headsets to suit

    epicyclo
    Full Member

    Talking of steerers, the threadless steerers I’ve seen all look a bit on the thin side for threading, even the steel ones.

    There’s a quick and easy way to make a fork.

    Get an old suspension fork with clamp on legs. These were either cheap BSO jobs or early mtb suspension. Most have a threaded steerer. That gets your fork crown and steerer sorted in one hit. It also lets you use 100mm OLD hubs.

    Then for fork legs, find an old segmented fork with round legs (eg an Inbred) and cut the legs off.

    The diameter of the fork legs is very close to the diameter that fits the above fork crown. Clamp them in and you’re good to go.

    The offset may be wrong, but that can be fiddled with by reversing the fork crown.

    Trail can be altered by working out what length of fork leg to use. If you leave a bit extra in you can adjust up and down until it feels right, then cut to suit.

    I think have an old fork crown and steerer if you want to try it.

    Alternatively, you can use a later type fork which has bonded stanchions. Then cut down a set of sliders to suit. It would be heavy for a wee folder.

    I did that here to make an adjustable rigid fork experiment with trail and head angle for fatbikes.

    I used seatclamps to clamp the legs, and had an internal spacer so it couldn’t collapse on to the tyre. click on this link to see the process.

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    trail_rat – Member
    Because cannondale threaded alloy steerers were 1 1/4″ OD with relevent headsets to suit

    Yes that’s right. STD 1 1/4 stems tho no?

    Brian you’re basically admitting your sandpaper idea is time consuming even for polishing, and you want to use it for material removal?

    I see your idea, but if you mean by “segmented” forks modern CSU style ones the the “stanchion” part is way larger diameter than what you’d find on old cheap suss forks (28.6mm etc like Judy’s have a price premium I think, I guess there are RSTs).

    the threadless steerers I’ve seen all look a bit on the thin side for threading, even the steel ones.

    In the early days of threadless, even the late 90s, steel steerer were the same guage for threaded.

    Daffy
    Full Member

    That doesn’t look at all lopsided… Well done…

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    Where do the spoons come in?

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Assuming Daffy is joking, it’s intentional

    bencooper
    Free Member

    Good job! It didn’t go so well when I once tried doing that with a titanium fork…

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Ooh thanks.

    It’s well dented, I’m hoping this won’t be an issue. If I fill them in at least I might forget about them 😀

    Junkyard
    Free Member

    I never know whether to admire you or just take out life insurance on you when you do a project 😉

    smell_it
    Free Member

    I admire the endeavour, and the ambition to save money on toothpaste 😉

    What’s the tyre clearance like none disc side?

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Ta.both, tyre clearance will be good, the dork is wider than normal now.

    I’ve got to build up a wheel as the original won’t fit – and sort a brake mount and get it brazed on. Hopefully won’t take me long.

Viewing 12 posts - 41 through 52 (of 52 total)

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