Been to Vallnord and Grandvalira, just a day at each with my gf but I really enjoyed them. As above the Maxiavalanche track at Vallnord is really nice and feels quite natural. The routes right down to the valley are good too, pretty steep and techy in places. There’s lots of more freeridey stuff too but I didn’t do too much of that.
Grandvalira was probably better for relative DH beginners IMO, there’s a nice black run down to the valley though which is just technical ish singletrack through lovely scenery. There was also some silly stunt stuff but a combination of me being a pussy and being with my GF (beginner) meant I didn’t really try any of it.
Generally both were fairly covered in braking bumps and quite cut up, Vallnord maybe more so. We were there quite late in the season though.