Hi guys,

I have just purchased a 2009 yeti asx. My full sus frame died and I thought I would get this as a bit of an experiment. I am looking to update the geometry a bit and also reduce the travel.

I only want to run this bike at 140mm front and rear and I am hoping that the reduction in travel will lower the bb a little bit too. I also want to really slaken out the front end so I would like to fit offset shock bushings and a slackset such as the one works do for on one.

Has anyone done anything like this or have any advice for me. Like I say I’m just playing with it really to see if I can make it a decent bike for what I want to use it for.

Cheers in advance
Tom

Unless the stock BB is very high you’re going end up with a very low BB.

I did the same with a Mk1 Santa Claus Bullit to make it less boring and it was great on the descents but a bit of a pain on the climbs due to the slackened seat angle, even with the saddle slammed all the way forward. This also effectively shortens the top tube in terms of saddle to stem reach.

I recently got a fantastic deal on a new Orange Gyro. Its a bike Orange have revised for 2015 my and is now called the Segment.

The Segment has a 2 degree slacker headtube. I had a Works -2 headset fitted to mimic the geometry of the Segment. The travel remained the same, and the BB hieght was hardly affected.

Breninbeener, I’d be interested to hear your thoughts on your slackened gyro. How has it affected its climbing?

The Segment has a 2 degree slacker headtube. I had a Works -2 headset fitted to mimic the geometry of the Segment. The travel remained the same, and the BB hieght was hardly affected.

That’s because you weren’t going from 160-140mm plus shock and headset offsets.

Yes, thats why i mentioned that i hadnt changed the travel.

A big reduction in travel will have quite an impact on BB height

I couldnt use offset shock bushings due to the suspension design.

From speaking to my lbs, the Works angleset was the work of the devil to fit in a big headtube…..

Cheers guys. The BB is quite high so a drop would not matter. I think the seattube is quite slack as it is and that is my major concern. I am thinking that if I start with the slackest, the stack is a bit lower than a standard headset so that should bring the seatube forward a bit. If I start with 2degrees on the headset I can see how that feels then adjust the bushings if I need. Just wanted to see if anyone has any pictures of it been done on an asx.

Hey Tom,

Jeron from Offsetbushings.com here – If you’re after some give us a shout and we’ll sort you out!

Cheers,

Jeron

The Yeti has a 1.5 HT so a -2 head Angle is possible with a 1 1/8th steerer. Not sure how much you’d have to shorten the shock to get it from 180-140 rear travel, but it might be possible for someone like TFT to reduce the stroke without shortening the i2i. It might be worth keeping the forks at 160 as dropping to 140 is a fairly large difference, especially if you slacken it out as well. Might be worth double checking how slack the seat tube is before you add offset bushings, but then again they only cost £20 for a pair.

If the seat tube is slack you could just slide the saddle forward on the rails, I did and it made a world of difference after I fitted the offset bushings.

I think the BB was fairly high by modern standards so you might get away with it.

Ps – Jeron sorted me some offset bushings for my Alpine 160 and I love them (they did creak for the first 3 rides, but since then they’ve been super smooth). Also his customer service is brilliant. Thanks Jeron.

Tom KP

@ breninbeener.
Forgive the thread hi-jack but I was planning on fitting a works angleset to my gyro soon and would like to know how you find it compared to the original geo?

Just had a look at the manual for this:

http://www.yeticycles.com/pdf/manuals/07OwnersManualASX.pdf

The bottom bracket is pretty high so if you shorten the shock to 140mm travel (from 180) and the fork to 140mm (from 160) it’ll take it down to about 330mm which is very much on the low side but not unrideable. I’d be inclined keep the fork at 160 because that’ll raise the BB to about 340mm and slacken it off a degree. Pair that with an angleset and that’s the head angle sorted.

I have no idea what to do about the seat angle though – it’s already ridiculously slack! Layback seatpost reversed with saddle all the way forwards on the rails?

I have a canyon nerve xc8 and the head angle was 69 deg so I put an angled headset on from works components which gave me 67.5 deg and then offset bushes on the rear which made it 66.5 deg and I can say that it made it a completely different bike , super fast on rock gardens and climbs well too

I have a canyon nerve xc8 and the head angle was 69 deg so I put an angled headset on from works components which gave me 67.5 deg and then offset bushes on the rear which made it 66.5 deg and I can say that it made it a completely different bike , super fast on rock gardens and climbs well too

I’m not surprised! My Spitfire has a degree of angle adjustment, 65.7/66.2/66.7, and I really notice that small difference. 69 to 66.5 is a huge change!

It’s a pretty short frame, it’ll get even shorter if you slacken it out!