So I have one of these new fangled through axke systems on the new SS bike and for the first time I tried to remove the front wheel. Put the qyick release handle into that funny slit thing and started to turn. Problem was it was tightly done up and so used a little more force when ‘snap’ the one side of the slit broke off. So now I can’t undo the lever as their is no material to push against. Whose stupid idea was that to out so little material on a part that is going to have to take so much force. So how can I get the front wheel out now??? Bah humbug! 🙁

Only if some idiot does them up too tight.

You have to push down as you push out I find to make sure its square in the recess.

I’ve done it once, so have a few others. Just file a bit more of a square into the maxle and try again. Rockshox will replace it.

The Specialized system is so much more refined to use. Oh that idiot would be the mechanic in the LBS 🙂

On the older ones you can use an allen key on the non-lever side to undo it if it is too tight.

They aren’t very intuitive either. I lost a bit of mine when a friend “helped” get the bikes out of the van to put them together. Luckily I had a spare. If you do get it out don’t forget to keep it greased.

One of the reasons why i dont have maxales is because i dont like the way they opperate. Way too much effort for getting a wheel in and out. As i have not had the op’s problem yet i am not sure on the solution oics may help.

One of the reasons why i dont have maxales is because i dont like the way they opperate. Way too much effort for getting a wheel in and out. As i have not had the op’s problem yet i am not sure on the solution oics may help.

Way too much effort for getting a wheel in and out.

Are you taking the piss? Compared to what? Breathing?

You clearly don’t remember Q/R with V brakes.

Swap with a Allen key version such as that from Mt Zoom

I prefer the Fox 15mm axle quick release, it just works, RS Maxle just seems over engineered and not as good.

Is there actually any point in the lever or is it designed just to look like a QR lever?

I thought the lever end has a split collet so when the QR is done up, the collet expands in the drop out and stops the axle undoing.

Yes, the collet expands with the lever.

They are the worst design ever. I don’t know how it ever went into production. I only nip mine up snug but have damaged more than one with light pressure.
Currently sending one back off my Revs for warranty as it’s not fit for…anything!
The Maxle ultimate on my pikes is better but the cost of them is insane. 👿

Is there actually any point in the lever or is it designed just to look like a QR lever?

Yes. That’s what you use to actually tighten it up. The rotary element is just to take up the slack. If you just use that bit to tighten it you risk breaking it as you have found. The qr lever does need to be correctly adjusted using the Allen bolt or it does nothing. When adjusted right it’s a pretty good system. Best of the limited selection I’ve tried.

They are the worst design ever. I don’t know how it ever went into production

This is SRAM we’re talking about here.

How does the maxle stealth work then? Seems to be just a ‘nip up tight’ affair

Yeah, agreed that it’s a pretty poor design. You have to push it inwards really firmly whilst turning it to make sure it stays square in the slot and therefore doesn’t round it. One of mine I’ve already had to lengthen the slot with the Dremel to square it up again. Also, I seem to have to adjust the tension with the allen bolt every other time I use it as it seems to slacken itself off. And predictably, the allen driver for this purpose that’s supposed to be stored underneath the fork leg, attached by nothing more than friction, has disappeared.

How does the maxle stealth work then?

Is it not just a bolt?

And predictably, the allen driver for this purpose that’s supposed to be stored underneath the fork leg, attached by nothing more than friction, has disappeared.

Is this all RS forks or just specific ones? Is the redesigned Maxle any better?

Yes I think it’s just a bolt, point being if a bolt is safe enough, why did they bother with the somewhat more complicated lever version?

While I’ve no issue with the maxel lever or the maxel light on my RS1’S, lining the independent moving legs up can be a right pain in the ar$€

Yes I think it’s just a bolt, point being if a bolt is safe enough, why did they bother with the somewhat more complicated lever version?

To allow people to get it adequately torqued up without tools? I assume you’d need a fairly lengthy Allen key to get the bolt dome up tight enough.

When Fox were showing off the prototype Kabolt they said they thought it would be for racers only as they didn’t think it would be suitable for people who didn’t have a pit crew…

I’ve had 3 or 4 and had no trouble with any of them – ham fistedness perhaps?

No, weak design. If you need to remove your front wheel all the time to get it in your car it takes it’s toll I think. I treated mine as if holding a baby robin.

Not just a bad design as they are easy to break , massively expensive to replace at over £50 and the replacement that you can buy is massively improved so they know it’s a crap design but keep putting it on bikes as oem . Total rip off by SRAM .

The newest one seems a bit weak, the lever snapped off mine. But otherwise it’s fine. For some reason people seem to struggle with the operation but it’s really not hard. And if you don’t like it, the stealth axle is fairly cheap, and lighter.

But it sounds like the OP is describing a previous generation one? Which were very simple and very durable, and lighter than most of the competition, just not 100% foolproof. Now personally, I’ll take light and durable and not 100% foolproof, because foolproof’s not really a benefit for me. But for some folks it is…

Now 4 bloomin allen keys then a bolt-in bolt on my 36s, threading into a tiny wee thread, that’s shit.

it sounds like the OP is describing a previous generation one? Which were very simple and very durable, and lighter than most of the competition, just not 100% foolproof.

I assumed the op is talking about this one?

This above is the shit one imho.

The newer one (I have it on my pikes) seems a lot, lot better but costs fifty odd quid!

£29

http://www.xcracer.com/shop/viewproduct.php?productid=423

Heads up if anyone needs a rear.
£21
link

The old one does make a handy tyre lever though 🙂

One of the reasons why i dont have maxales is because i dont like the way they opperate. Way too much effort for getting a wheel in and out. As i have not had the op’s problem yet i am not sure on the

Bizarre. Soooo much effort……

It’s SRAM product. Likely way over complicated design, with a fundamental flaw in strength or operation somewhere.
The Fox 15mm axle is superb – robust, simple and has proved reliable for 8 years on my bike.

kayak23 – Member

I assumed the op is talking about this one?

Yup, me too. Used that method (different variants) on both my bikes for about 6 years without any issues. It just needs to be operated correctly. I did knock the end off an older version on my lyriks, the first gen axle was quite sticky-outy but they revised that out.

I bust the one in my new Pikes after a few months. TBH, may have been a little overtightened but it wasn’t gorilla’d (I’m a 10 stone weakling, there’s a limit to how overtight it could be!) Not much metal in the bit that broke.

Old version was known for snapping the notch bits off I believe, though seems to depend how heavy handed you are. As said, it’s the lever that locks it tight, but can slacken and you need to adjust with an allen key. Tightening via the notch can take up the slack but if it’s too slack you risk snapping it. Do up allen key first and lock lever.