I am going to buy some new Rebas for my 26er Superlight. Is there any reason to go to a Maxle fork over the Standard QR?
I am only 9 1/2 stone and just ride normal XC, natural trails in the Lakes & Derbyshire and the odd trail centre. I have never had a problem with QR and it also makes it easier to mount to my Thule 561 rather than use the rather unthought- out Thule 15mm adaptor. As a matter of interest, does the Maxle hub slide into a hooded section of the fork lowers or does it just rely on the axle to locate it, just thinking how the Thule adaptor works. With the QR at least you can plonk the bike on and allow the dropouts to support it before the Thule QR is done up. Wheels are Hope pro so no problem adapting them.

i wouldn’t go back to qr. on a relatively light fork like the reba i would expect you’ll feel the difference when cornering.
there is a lip on the inside of the fork legs that holds the wheel while you put the maxle through, so if i understand correctly what you’re asking just plonking the bike on should be no problem. 😉

It’s not somewhere to mess about – if I had the option I’d always go for a through axle on a fork.

With decent QRs (shimano) it’s a very low risk but mechanically the disc brake forces are working against the QR in a way that’s not healthy. If you do lose a front wheel the results can be life changing and are never going to be pleasant (I’ve dropped a rear QR wheel – on a Superlight as it happens – and it was alarming but I rode out of it).

It should be a bit stiffer as well (though the 15mm design isn’t ideal) but for me it’s mainly a safety point

Much prefer my new set up with a maxle. Can’t say that it is the maxle that made the difference as it was new forks and a new wheel but the front end is now noticeably better

I’ve recently gone to QR on my training bike as I had a hub and a fork.

I’d second Simon’s post – the biggest difference I notice is how much more careful you have to be to get the qr and wheel secure. The tabs do a good job of holding the wheel in (you have to undo the QR a lot to get the wheel out) but the unless it’s done up very tight you get movement.

TBH it’s not a difference I ever cared about, it’s mostly about the rider IMO. Wheel retention is just about basic mechanicking and care and the flex or otherwise isn’t a big deal for everyone.

But still, if I was buying a new fork I’d go 15mm now, if only because it’s become the standard. Well it had anyway, til the idea of one standard freaked the manufacturers out and they created Boost.

I went from a QR Recon fork to a 15mm thru axle Reba and I felt the difference. I’d go for the Maxle.

Wheel retention is just about basic mechanicking and care

And well designed QR’s in good, clean condition. Internal cam designs like Shimano are very different to external cams running on plastic bushings which wear and which dirt can stop working properly. Badly machined or soft faces on the ‘grippy face’ of the skewer can mean they move and come loose.

I’ve always been careful about mine, and I’ve never had a Shimano come undone, but a poor quality set I had did repeatedly.

I use a 561 with 20mm forks, and yes, you can sit the bike on the rack and then do up the axle.

As for 15mm v QR, what everyone else said. QRs are another of the many things designed for road bikes that have no place on MTBs any more

Looking like the Maxle is winning out here, thanks for the Thule fitting info.