Anyone got info on good choices for low end GPS’s for bike use. Want something practical but don’t want to spend loads on something i will prob lose or fall on top of!

Geko 201/301

How about Etrex secondhand? Should get a decent one for around £50
Geko battery (aaa) life can be a bit short but not difficult to take spares

I’ve got a Geko 201. It’s great especially wth Memory Map.

On DruidH’s advice I have just bought a geko 201. Not arrived yet but looks just the job for navigating with a map (but not having to get it out every 5 mins)

just the job for navigating with a map (but not having to get it out every 5 mins)

That’s how i was thinking. The eTrex seems to go cheap on ebay – anyone know what the etrex can’t do that the gecko can?

yup, geko 201 is spot on. Great cheapo bit of kit, does the job. Need to use re-chargeables to get the best battery life.

Etrex and Geko are functionally similar, but check Etrex models as some have better/worse memory capacity for holding tracks and waypoints.
Geko is smallest/lightest (if that counts) – even with a spare set of AAAs, it’ll still be so.
With a decent set of rechargeables, you should get 8-10 hours on a Geko.

Oh – Geko has a smaller screen – some find it a bit too small (the ones that need to see an optician)

The eTrex H is a slightly chunkier unit, but functionally very similar to the Gecko 201.

Just be aware that both of these use a serial rather than USB connector. You can use an adapter, or get an adapter cable, but it will add a few quid to the price.

Something like this will work: USB Cable for Geko & eTrex

I’ve always converted routes to tracks on memory map before loading them on to my geko 201 – it gets around the small memory size which struggles with big routes with lots of waypoints

snowslave – Member

I’ve always converted routes to tracks on memory map before loading them on to my geko 201 – it gets around the small memory size which struggles with big routes with lots of waypoints

Good tip. This was less of a problem for walking, when routes were typically shorter but I mostly do the same for cycling.

The cheapest models don’t do mapping. For the cheapest models you need to look at the number of waypoints per route and the number of routes it can store. If you are looking to spend more then you need to look at mapping ability and map storage memory.
If you are looking at Garmin
H=high sensitivity receiver (for the woods and valleys)
C= colour display (better than the black & white and lower power consumption)
x= micro SD memory card slot
if you get one with a micro USB connector the cables are generic and you can power it from a car adaptor/micro USB mobile charger.
And budget for a handlebar mount.

Summary – get a Legend HCx + handlebar adaptor

If you want to record cadence and heart rate look at the Garmin edge models.

I’m pretty competent with a map and compass. But it’s a pain to have to keep referring to maps when you’re moving, and it’s raining, and……

It’s probably been explained above, but I don’t understand the jargon (routes, tracks.. etc.?). In layman’s terms, with either of the above, can you plan out a route at home (either with GR’s off a map or on a PC) along the various paths you plan to follow so that as you reach track junctions the GPS tells you which direction / fork / path to take and save you reaching for the map and compass?

I assume on these simple (cheap) ones they don’t have the maps ‘inbuilt’ so you can see the surrounding stuff (like car GPS’s do) but do more expensive models have that too?

Any real layman’s reviews of GPS that would explain this to me?

theotherjonv – for someone that doesn’t have the jargon, you’ve got yourself a fairly good grasp of the techniques.

Waypoints are manually entered (or via a program) grid references.
Routes are lists of waypoints in the order you need to navigate them.
Tracks are what the GPS records as you go. The “Trackpoints” created are typically more frequent than you’d enter as waypoints. Tracks can also be navigated once recorded on the device. Some programs let you save “routes” as “tracks” as this gets round the waypoints per route limit.
Yes – you can program a route so that you’re basically following an arrow. As you approach a change of direction, you’ll get a warning and then the arrow will shift to show you where the next waypoint lies.
As you say, cheap GPSs do not have mapping. Some more expensive ones do, but the Garmin mapping is fairly rudimentary. If you want OS-type mapping, you need some specific devices, (e.g. Satmap, Garmin Oregon, Windows Mobile PDA/Phone, other mobile with Viewranger).
For the non-mapping devices, entering routes is easiest with a PC-based mapping package such as Anquet, Memory Map or Tracklogs. All of these can be downloaded with free sample data to play around with. Just pick the one you prefer.
Maps you acquire from these companies can NOT (normally) be installed on a Satmap etc – so you end up buying the maps twice if you want that (actually, Anquet and MM can be installed on a Windows Mobile device).

Thanks Druidh

My current technique for following a new route is to plot the route on the OS maps, and then list out the junctions / direction (I used to use what i think are referred to as Tulips but found that a bit faffy) The problem with that is that to get a lot of detail there’s a lot of points to write down, and there are also ‘new’ tracks appear on the ground that aren’t on the map and without an absolute reference of where you are it gets tricky to know whether the left turn you’ve reached is the left turn you expected after about 1200m or another unmapped one and you’ve only actually come 1100m – and so on!! So the map comes out (again)

What I’d like to do is to plot a route on the PC, ideally by clicking the cursor or something all the way around the route (every couple of 100m or so maybe, even if it is just a straight on point) – cross copy that to the machine and then that will direct me between points. So if I understand right that is possible, using one of the mapping packages you mention? If so – how much do they cost in addition to the receiver, and what are the pros and cons to each? If they’d also tell you elevation gain / lost, print profile charts etc. that would be nice!

Having reread that and also some of the other responses – I’m still confused on routes vs tracks?

I *think* I follow – a route has a limited # of waypoints for technical reasons i can understand – but therein may lie the issue. If the next waypoint lies (let’s say) 1km due north of the one you’re on, very rarely (and very dull-ly) would the path run 1 km due north as well. It probably starts off due E, heads S for a bit, before wiggling NW and then E again to finally get to the waypoint after 1600m actually travelled!! Doesn’t your Garmin go mental at you when you set off in the ‘wrong’ direction?

YOu could get an old Windows Mobile from ebay. Something like an MDA Compact III with built in GPS, then run Memory Map on it, which will give you OS mapping.

theotherjonv – Member

What I’d like to do is to plot a route on the PC, ideally by clicking the cursor or something all the way around the route (every couple of 100m or so maybe, even if it is just a straight on point) – cross copy that to the machine and then that will direct me between points. So if I understand right that is possible, using one of the mapping packages you mention? If so – how much do they cost in addition to the receiver, and what are the pros and cons to each? If they’d also tell you elevation gain / lost, print profile charts etc. that would be nice!

Yes, that’s the role of a mapping program. Cost is dependant upon how much mapping you want (and if it’s 1:25k or 1:50k). You’re best to look at the relevant websites. I have the whole UK at 1:50k and some selected areas at 1:25k – that was close to £200 in total.

They also do ascent/descent/estimated time/route profiles.

Once you’re home, plug the GPS in and you can upload back on to the PC to see where you went – very handy when you discover new, unmapped, paths.

theotherjonv – Member

Having reread that and also some of the other responses – I’m still confused on routes vs tracks?

I *think* I follow – a route has a limited # of waypoints for technical reasons i can understand – but therein may lie the issue. If the next waypoint lies (let’s say) 1km due north of the one you’re on, very rarely (and very dull-ly) would the path run 1 km due north as well. It probably starts off due E, heads S for a bit, before wiggling NW and then E again to finally get to the waypoint after 1600m actually travelled!! Doesn’t your Garmin go mental at you when you set off in the ‘wrong’ direction?

It’s up to you how frequently you place waypoints. But in essence you’re correct – the path might head away from the waypoint for a while before doubling back. If this looks problematic, you need to place more waypoints (and this is how you end up running out of capacity). In practice, placing lots of waypoints is only really necessary when there are lots of tracks and you might take the wrong one. Of course, any route calculations (ascent / distance etc.) will always use straight lines between waypoints, so again, the more you use, the more accurate these calculations will be.

and your recommended Geko 201/301 has capability to do all this (with the appropriate map software)?

Sounds like what I’m after!

How many waypoints are you allowed per route? And the route tracking – is that automatic or do you need to remember to add tracking points as you go?

I have an etrex H which I find great on the bike.

I use tracks (following the actualy trail) and then only put waypoints in where absolutely necessary (eg where there are two similar trails leading onwards or where there’s a big junction or key point (eg for a trail quest) as I don’t find that I really need them – the track is fine to follow.

route tracking is automatic. You can also add waypoints as you’re going if there’s something particular you want to note (eg the start of a trail that you might choose to follow on another ride)

I have a friend who is cracking a GPS unit and installing Tom Tom software and Memory Map software on it so you can use it for car and bike. It comes with a bar mount too, think he sells them for about £130. Let me know if you are interested and i can put you in touch

Aaarghhh – more jargon!

What does that mean?

theotherjonv – Member

and your recommended Geko 201/301 has capability to do all this (with the appropriate map software)?

Yes. GPS, batteries & recharger, cable (plus optional USB/Serial adapter if needed) and some mapping software.

How many waypoints are you allowed per route? And the route tracking – is that automatic or do you need to remember to add tracking points as you go?

Geko capacity:

Waypoints: 500

Routes: 20 (max 125 waypoints per route)

Tracks: 10,000 trackpoints (for current track) and 20 saved tracks;

Tracks are created automatically.

Well a feature I really appreciate is the High Sensitivity as it works very well in woods. My old GPS didn’t have it and was unreliable in covered area.

Which unit has the best handlebar mount I have heard the Garmin mount cant be used on oversize bars and you have to bodge up a mount

Or is that internet boll*x

Bollox

The standard mount for the Geko is for standard bars. You can also buy an OS bar mount. This is not a lie. I have both 😀

Oh look – here

What about a Garmin forerunner 305, with HRM and 2 bike mounts.
Less than £100 SH.