Non drive side rear wheel spokes keep coming loose on a ride. Rim is new stans flow EX and hub is a hope pro 2 evo 32 spoke . Any suggestions as to why?
Thanks
Richard

Baby built wheel with low or uneven tension. Initially it may have been down insufficient stress relieving but now tension is low and uneven.

You need to take it to someone who knows wheels so it can be brought back up to tension (1200N) DS rear and tension made even on each side to with +/-5% of the mean. The indregients for a reliable wheel are very simple the wheel builder just has to follow the recipe.

Take it to your lbs that’s good with wheels for re-tensioning and stress relieving after which it should be fine.

Which is what the above was trying to say but as usual going into it far too much lol.

Cheers all

Twang’em and tune’m up with a spoke key.

Nobody know why just non drive side?

Probably not enough tension during the build or wasn’t stressed to take out spoke twist, could have used to much lube when building many many reasons why it started loosing tension.

Nobody know why just non drive side?

…because most of the time due to the way a rear hub is spaced (with a big wide freehub on one side and nowt on the other) the NDS spokes are longer than the DS ones and end up with significantly lower tensions even when the DS ones are up to the “correct” tensions (ie. high!) in order to achieve a laterally central wheel. It’s entirely predictable that if a rear wheel spoke is going to lose tension it’ll be on the NDS because they’re fairly low to begin with. HTH 😉

As munkster said, as there is less angle between the hub flange and a centred rim on the drive side because of the freehub. Because of the lesser angle and the rotational forces exerted on the hub with the drive train the drive side spokes will be more susceptible to loosening off if not properly tensioned.

Had this the other day on a new wheel (250miles old), tightened up the NDS and ended up with a wheel massively dished towards NDS. Eased it off a bit to first in the chainstays but this meant spokes under recommend tension and a flexy wheel. Bit stumped as it was ok to start with. Think I will have to untension the whole wheel and start again.

Think I will have to untension the whole wheel and start again.

If you have *only* tightened up the NDS then you could always just tighten up the DS to correct the dish. Slack off the NDS slightly in sympathy to accelerate the centering process perhaps? You can, within reason, go above the maximum rim tension (indeed some wheel building advice goes along the lines of “tighten the spokes until the rim pringles after stress relieving then back off half a turn”) although I try not to, and given I’m not overly heavy it doesn’t seem to matter too much. Equally once a tyre is on and pumped up this will lessen the spoke tensions a little anyway if you’re overly worried about that?

Agree could do but DS is over spec already. It’s odd, not had it before. If the wheel hadn’t been ok when I first used it I’d say the spokes were too long on the nds.

Even if the spokes were too long you should still be able to tension them up though surely, unless they were *really* long and they ran out of thread and were popping 2-3mm out the top of the nip I guess?

I dunno, maybe an expert will come along shortly 😉