• This topic has 62 replies, 26 voices, and was last updated 7 years ago by mit78.
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  • Liteville build thread
  • Ecky-Thump
    Free Member

    re 601 MK2 to 601 MK3 changes

    I’m pretty sure the main difference is that they’ve put some welded bump stops on the headtube for running TC forks.

    Close, it was a corrugated strengthener welded into the top of the downtube (near the headtube)

    re chainstay mounted chainguide
    yes – an optional extra, yes – expensive but very effective, yes – the glide-plate bush is a consumable.
    I’d say they make most difference on a 2x chainset. (My 301 is 2×10, I have one fitted, it works)
    Possibly not as necessary on a N/W 1x (My 601 is 1×11 – I haven’t fitted it and haven’t thrown the chain yet)
    May consider a minimalist top guide instead if I start dropping chains as it wears.

    gibbonarms
    Free Member

    Genuine question, as weighing up the options and there are some Mk2’s frames out there going for great prices, if some German web sites are to be trusted.

    I bought my mk2 from from bike-componants.de, I was a little skeptical at first but it arrived safe and sound, and the service was top notch. I also ordered the rear mech rock guard from them at the same time.

    I couldn’t stomach buying the Syntace SCS chainguide for 125 euro, nor could I find it any cheaper, until……. I called Bromley Bikes and got one from them a lot cheaper, well worth the call. Speaking to other 301 and 601 owners, the guide is v v nice, but when they have not used it, they have not had any chain derailment issues. I chose to go with it, as I’m running mine 2 x 10.

    Also look at the proper syntace/sixpack 140mm seatpost shims to enable you to run a regular 30.9 or 31.6 seatpost size. Order some syntace mega spacers as well, really cleans up the front end of the bike: http://goo.gl/OKZYtf

    Hope that helps.

    stewartc
    Free Member

    So, just pressed the button on a 601 frame, plus the chain guide, seatpost shim (to 30.9), collar and rear mech protector from Bike-Components.
    The plan is that when I get back from holiday my LBS would have built this up using new bits and parts from my old Mach6, going with a new 180mm Lyric fork as well.
    This will be my gnarly local DH shuttles & bike holiday ride, the rest of my stuff will be ridden on my Stanton Switchback.

    Intended build:
    Medium Black Anodized 601 mk3 frame (new)
    RS Lyric RCT3 Forks, 180mm (new)
    XX1 Drive train
    XT M8000 Brake-set
    LB 30mm wide rim wheel-set
    KS Lev Integra 150mm seat-post

    That base build should keep the weight down, don’t want to have top go back to my 28t chain-ring to get up mountains!

    220si
    Free Member

    Got my linkage setup in the middle now as on the bottom setting too slack and rode like a pig uphill.

    In the middle setting great and climbing just as good as my mates Capra.

    Here’s another whoring pic.

    chickenman
    Full Member

    Nope, still can’t post pics; god I’m thick!

    220si
    Free Member

    ^ the above referring to me??

    I can see the pic??

    Linking to photobucket?

    andybrad
    Full Member

    so heres mine

    currently MK10 160 dual position pikes and 26″ wheels front and rear stans crest on hope hubs. Hans damphs. reverb, raceface cranks hope pedals, syntace bars etc etc

    Seems like a nice bike.

    chickenman
    Full Member

    Nope 220si, Was referring to myself. Seems Andybrad is having a similar issue…

    stewartc
    Free Member

    So, just built up today by my LBS, a mk3 601.
    I scavenged as many parts from my Pivot mach6 as i could and just had to buy new forks, 180mm Lyrics, so it not come in at too high a price.
    A little to big on travel for my Lantua rides (and heavy) but should do fine for HK DH Shuttle runs and those Chiang Mei trips.


    What is the feed back on the lower chain guide, is it worth keeping it with a 1×11 drive train?

    goby
    Full Member

    Looks very nice!, head angle looks steep though or is it the photo?

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    Headset spacers are borderline at best
    Front brake hose looks long
    Tyre logos not lining up with valves

    stewartc
    Free Member

    Looks steep due to the angle and rear wheel brace.

    Tyre logos don’t line up as the mechanic at my LBS cant read English and the headset spacers will go once I adjust the cockpit (maybe), I have no excuse for the front brake hose.

    goby
    Full Member

    lol, didnt think about rear wheel brace.

    220si
    Free Member

    Looks nice Stewart

    What size is it?? Looks big and long??

    stevied
    Free Member

    Nice looking build Stew, be interested in how you find the new Lyriks as they are on the list if I go 27.5″.
    I’m guessing a medium size as its not got the seat tube gusset?

    stewartc
    Free Member

    Yep, medium, will pick up today and give it a quick spin before trying out some rigorous AM stuff tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing what the Lyrics are like, and if I can even climb up the usual mountains on this beasty.

    gibbonarms
    Free Member

    What are peoples experience with tyre clearance in the rear?

    On my large frame (440mm long chainstays) with a 27.5 x 2.35 Magic Mary at 18psi, there’s clearance on the chain and seatstays but under full compression the tyre is into the back of the seat tube.

    I know Liteville state in their build manual that….

    Note: A brushing of the rear wheel on the seat tube upon full compression when riding will, other than producing a wear mark on the seat tube, not cause any damage.

    But under full compression the rear wheel won’t turn at all so the tyre is too big, and I need a smaller one that can still handle our seasonal gloopy trails.

    J273
    Free Member

    Looking at getting a MK12 301 as my next frame. Want a Mk12 so I can run 27.5 both ends.

    What’s the sizing like on them? I’m a shade under 6ft, will the large be big enough. They look pretty short in the top tube.

    stevied
    Free Member

    I’m on a large @ 5’11” with a 40mm Megaforce stem

    welshfarmer
    Full Member

    6 foot here on a large (MK11). I sometimes think I would have been happier on a XL but i have quite long arms and like a long bike. I have a 150mm Reverb and about 30mm is out of the seat tube so I could easily run the same post in an XL

    hamishthecat
    Free Member

    Also 6ft here on a Mk11 Large, with 40mm Megaforce 2 stem 🙂 waiting for a 150mm Reverb to arrive. I’ve not felt I would want to be on a larger frame. I have run 27.5 both ends but the Liteville advice is accurate and it won’t take more than a 2.25 tyre at the back. However, I actually prefer the 26″ rear/27.5 front that Liteville recommend for the Large.

    stevied
    Free Member

    Thought I’d add an update to mine on here.
    Gone to 27.5″ F/26″ R with Yari 180mm (stealth decals) and a nice DT 350SP/EX471/Aerocomp wheel build.
    Also added a 150/34.9mm Reverb stealth due to the failure of my Thomson.

    Looking to add a minimal top chain guide but a bit confused as to what I can use. PB review stated that they’d used a direct low-mount but there’s only one hole on the frame 😕

    mit78
    Free Member

    hi, i have a liteville 601 mk1 2013, and i want to know, if i put on front a crank from xtr at 11 speed, must put the spacer on bottom bracket or not? in this moment, its not possible to use scs2 chain guide.wait for answer.

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