did some trials a few years ago with massive rims and tyres with a 36er and using tyres from coach trials, went like an avalanche downhill, corners..hahahahahahahahahaha

at some point it may happen, but I really cant see the point as there are too many compromises needed in the build and handling even with freaky geometry.

On a rigid 29er I think a 4″ front with a 3″ rear could be great fun. I don’t think the market is big enough at the moment though for 29″ tyres of over 4″ to be produced. There’re still very few 3″ options although more appear to be on the way soon.

alex do 36″ rims now

IB14: Alex Widens Rim Collection to Include Fat Bikes, 29+, Even 36″?

Crocodilian… I’m in awe of that saddle height you’re running

It’s an XL frame too! It gets mentioned quite a lot. I’m not ridiculously tall, just have massive giraffe legs!

Stooge Klunker…….

Was running this with a Gusset jump fork and a 2.4 upfront

After todays mud bath ride around the local woods and trails away from the coast after a weeks rain i would not hesitate to roll with 2.5 Minions if i owned a Krampus.
I am running 2.5 Minion DHF front/2.3 Minion DHF rear on my Karate Monkey, and would have been spinning a lot today on Knards,
[url=https://flic.kr/p/p7ZDbU]Karate Monkey – Mid Nov Woods cycle 003[/url] by coastkid71, on Flickr

Go on then ogle me Stooge.

Maxxis Chronicles on my Krampus, much better than Knards in the mud.

Just about to build up a Rohloff into a Dually to build one of these

Rohloff with track ends? Shakes head….

Pogo – love the Stooge Klunker.

Give me a couple of months to jump on the bandwagon. Probably sticking with 35mm Light Bicycle rims and whatever largish tyres I can find.

@ ir_bandito – is it really that bad an idea?

There seem plenty of Surly users running Rohloffs and track end style dropouts.

What’s the issue?

PITA getting the wheel out.
To slacken the chain to knock it off the chainwheel, you need to slide the wheel forward. If you’re using a speedbone or Monkeybone, that means loosening off the brake caliper bolts. Not only that but you’ll want to be using a chain tug (Surly, naturally) to ensure no slipping unless you’ve got a solid nutted axle (which in itself is also a faff) so you’ll need to loosen that off too. Once its all loose, you slide the wheel forward, take get the chain off, then bring it all back to get the wheel out. Then reverse the entire procedure to get it back in.

My first Rohly build was a Cotic Simple.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/6PriLo]DSC_0514[/url] by ir_bandito, on Flickr
Combined with my habit of getting pinch punctures due to riding like an idiot, I made myself very unpopular with 15 minute inner tube changes on many rides.

Ah. That all makes sense.

I’m hoping to forego the speed bone I have and use one of the cut outs in the dropout to locate the “Rohloff thingy” a la Surly. Genesis have confirmed the dropouts should be fine.

If I can’t get this to work then I’m hoping the inboard brake placement may make things easier.

I’m all too aware if the disapproving glances and mutterings of a 15minute tube change with my Alfine/Fortitude set up 🙂

Which is why I’m getting a Fortitude Race frame with vert dropouts and using a chain tensioner. But shh, no-one knows…

Had so much faff over the years with track ends (see above), creaking EBBs, and slipping sliding dropouts, and even when chain tension IS right, inevitably the chainring goes out of concentricity so ends up cycliing slack/tight, I figure I’ll stick to adjusting the one component that is supposed to be flexible (the chain).

Of course, once I get the belt-drive included, it changes again as they can’t use a tensioner in theory.

I think you will have more of a head ache with a chain tensioner.
What you want is……”Mension”

Moonmen Bikes Mension

I think you will have more of a head ache with a chain tensioner

Unlikely. How often do you hear of problems with chain tension and chainline from a derailleur?
Mension looks like an interesting take on it, but I stand by my plan of adjusting the one component that is supposed to be flexible (the chain).

Not convinced, in my opinion chain tensioners (a cumbersome addition) have always been a temporary solution to “singlespeeding” a bike, whereas EBB, slot dropouts (I never had an issue with my BMX when I was a kid and I used to hammer that virtually every day) and now mension are permanent solutions of vary degrees.
Yes I do agree that you may get a slight bit of oscillation with the chain ring and freewheel combined depending on the quality of parts, which translates as slack-tight-slack-tight whilst pedaling but I think that is a very small negative against the imperfections of chain tensioners. If you have a precision engineered freewheel combined with a laser cut aerospace grade aluminium chainring fitted to your bike and you are getting sufficient oscillation for you to consider a tensioner I would get your frame checked.
Apologies, I’m on the wine.

That there Moonmen Mension is a clever idea 😀

Clever isn’t it.
Maybe one day……..

Yeah, I daren’t look at the price 😆

@ Spectabilis, what rims are those?

Those would be Dually’s from Velocity

Semi skimmed km

My Travers Angus

not mine but was in my garage

^^ That looks fun Nasher 🙂 ^^

JohnClimber, how’re you finding the Maxxis Chronicles?

They’re an improvement over the Knards in the mud I think but i’m having trouble finding the tyre pressure sweet spot. The Knards are perfect for me at 10psi front and 12psi rear but the Chronicles feel strange cornering at that pressure, maybe squirmy but they don’t feel like that when I squeeze them. I need to take the gauge out for a ride and do some testing I think.

Also, what frame & rims are they in the middle photo?

My Surly 1×1.
Front tyre is a Kenda Nevegal 2.35 which blows up to 58mm width on the Halo T2 rim, the rear is an older Michelin WildgripR 2.25 which measures 60mm. 18psi works for my ten and a half stones.

Mostly balanced,

How wide are the original forks on a Surly 1×1? Would a 26×3″ tyre fit in there?

Paceman

Paceman. I’ll have to measure the forks at home to give you an exact answer but gut feeling is yes, and I’m sure I’ve seen reports on the internet of 3 inch Knards working. As for other tyres more information is needed. Real tyre widths and manufacturers stated tyre widths are often very different.

Does anyone know if a 50mm 29+ rim with a 2.4 will fit in a Karate Monkey frame?

I need to re-build mine, and I’m thinking of going for Stans Hugo rims (when they come out – which will be about the time I can afford it), 3″ up front, 2.4″ out back.

(sorry, just seen the photo above of exactly what I needed to know!)

It will fit with Monkey nuts fitted but you will not have much mud clearance, here is a pic of a 2.5 Minion on a RH, swapped it for a 2.3…
[url=https://flic.kr/p/pLPPQZ]29 x 2.5 Minion`s 006[/url] by coastkid71, on Flickr

[url=https://flic.kr/p/puBEC7]29 x 2.5 Minion`s 005[/url] by coastkid71, on Flickr

Here’s my slightly modified Solaris with on one carbon forks which have ‘just’ enough room for a Knard on a Dually rim. I’ve a Chronicle on order and my fingers are crossed…!

[url=https://flic.kr/p/pNXaTY]29+ Solaris[/url] by Rosscopeco, on Flickr

Loving the way it handles.

Running a on one 2.4 chunky monkey on the rear.

To answer running a Rohloff on track ends…I got so fed up with the faff I got the rear dropouts replaced with Paragon swingers which makes it a cinch.

Now planning a full 29+ custom frame with a slightly more relaxed head angle to take some weight of the hands and make the front end more ‘poppy’

rosscopeco – Member

Here’s my slightly modified Solaris with on one carbon forks which have ‘just’ enough room for a Knard on a Dually rim. I’ve a Chronicle on order and my fingers are crossed…!

The Maxxis Chronicle is 2mm narrower than the Surly Knard on a 50mm rim so i’d expect you’ll have no problems 😀 .

on one carbon forks which have ‘just’ enough room

Which forks? 29er or Fatty?

To answer running a Rohloff on track ends…I got so fed up with the faff I got the rear dropouts replaced with Paragon swingers which makes it a cinch.

“Like”

Now planning a full 29+ custom frame with a slightly more relaxed head angle to take some weight of the hands and make the front end more ‘poppy

“Like” again, that’s my plan too…

Singular Swift Half-fat:

Putting aerospace chainrings and precision freewheels aside, a quality hub needs to be fitted. I fitted my W.I. to a hub along with a new ring and found that the tight spot had nothing to do with the ring, freewheel ,bent axle or chainset. With the freewheel removed and the wheel in a jig, the threaded part appeared egg shaped. More than 1mm out in a revolution.

I’ve had a knard through the On One 29er monocoque on ones with about 5mm either side, but that was on a 25mm rim. I am building one up over the next couple of weeks with a 47mm chris holm, so we’ll see how that works.

If On One already have a fork that takes 29+, my son has one in his 456C, what chance they will do a carbon 29+ frame? Anyone heard anything?

letmetalktomark

Have you tried a 50mm rim + 3″ tyre on the back of the longitude yet? What’s the tyre/mud clearance like?

Just took the Krampus out for a ride with it’s new Alfine rear wheel. Why aren’t we all riding IGHs? I am truly converted!
I did take a picture, but my phone is playing up.

Singlespeed Stooge Knard up-front