Just picked up my bike from the LBS who were fitting a new headset / crown race for the bike I am building.

I was told when picking it up that they had real difficulty trying to remove the old crown (fork is from an old bike) and installing the new one. The crown is about 1 ~ 2mm too high and not fully seated on the fork. I was told it would seat itself after a few rides so might need adjusting.

Should I be concerned about this? Will it slid down eventually or should I try fix it before riding?

I wouldn’t be paying them for a shoddy job like that.

I was told it would seat itself after a few rides so might need adjusting.

Hmm. If they just pushed it on by hand, maybe, but then why not fit it fully? If they hammered it on and that’s as far as it went, it won’t go any further with riding, but they really should have taken a crown race cutter to it first.

I take a cutter to all forks before fitting anyway.

What?
So your bearings are going to hammer up and down till its in place????
Don’t think so.

Did the crown race come with the headset? 😉

I’d be very sceptical that it’ll seat itself down. Especially if they couldnt set it right with the correct tool.
Some crown race fork combinations are a nightmare. If the race is realy tight I just cut it, never had a problem doing this.

I don’t think it was installed by hand. Is there a specialist tool which should have been used? The fork is a couple years old so might have become misshaped slightly.

Assuming it was hammered on and wouldn’t go any further, is there anything to worry about re it not being fully seated? Was a FSA headset btw.

Just to add, I did catch him hammering the headset with a wooden brush handle and hammer to get the headset “seated” before using the press. Apparently it would go on due to too much paint on head tube.

Not sure how much I can trust this LBS..?

If the race is realy tight I just cut it, never had a problem doing this.

The proper way is to cut the crown race seat on the fork – cutting the race alters its diameter which could cause problems*.

It amazes me how many bike shops don’t have frame prep tools, though.

*I realise this is a controversial opinion on here, so in advance I’d like to say that you’re all wrong 😉

Apparently it would go on due to too much paint on head tube.

Which is why you use a head tube facing and reaming tool first too.

Sounds like an amateur to me.

Assuming it was hammered on and wouldn’t go any further, is there anything to worry about re it not being fully seated?

Yes, without it fully seated onto a flat crown seat, you’ve got no guarantee that it’s straight.

Should I be concerned about this?

Yes! the jobs not done and their “advice” sounds shite…

Name and shame.

hmm, thanks. Thats what I expected BC.

Yes the crown came with the headset. I would have thought that cutting the crown would have compromised the seating with headset?

I’ve got a file and “eased” the internal diameter of a race before now and didn’t die AFAIK – only Bruce Willis can know for sure though

did they consider that the crown race might ‘settle’ down the steerer unevenly so you end up with the fork going into the frame at an odd angle and putting unusual side loads on the bearings, headtube etc?

I’d be getting it sorted properly. Either by them or someone who could do it right.

I inspected the crown and it did look like its completely level. Will take another look when home tonight.

Is it worth trying to get the thing seated myself? If so, how would I go about doing that?

Only problem I’ve had with having the crown race seat cut is that a crown race from a different headset might be to loose. But it is the correct way to do it though.
Loads of lbs don’t have the tools or the staff with the training to use them.

I’d be having a very good look at the headtube to make sure it hasn’t been damaged too.

I did catch him hammering the headset with a wooden brush handle and hammer to get the headset “seated” before using the press.

Hmmm…Amateur.. I use a frying pan.

Is it worth trying to get the thing seated myself? If so, how would I go about doing that?

Piece of plastic drain pipe over the steerer and wallop down on it – plastic so you don’t damage the race.

But I’ll doubt you can move it – the diameter of the steerer is probably a fraction larger than optimal, and they didn’t have a cutter to sort it. Or it’s hung up on a burr of aluminium.

I’d be getting it sorted properly. Either by them or someone who could do it right.

defo name and shame

it was that tight a gentle wet and dry to polish up would prob have done the trick

if your in croydon area i could take a look for you?

Amateurs. Tell them to naff off, don’t pay them since they haven’t done the job you asked.

It should fit, no bodges. The whole point about paying a professional is to avoid bodges.

Fairly close to Croydon (30min drive). Thanks for the offer, I will get back to you once I have taken a proper look at it tonight.

Ben, assuming it cant be moved it and that its completely level, can you see any reasons to not ride it?

Ben, assuming it cant be moved it and that its completely level, can you see any reasons to not ride it?

Just don’t. If nothing else the geomotry will be wrong. If it does seat, the headset will go loose.

Dont ride it until its fixed properly.

Ben, assuming it cant be moved it and that its completely level, can you see any reasons to not ride it?

Not really – worst case your headset will loosen up. Just check for stiff points when you rotate the forks, to make sure the bearings aren’t being squeezed.

It’s a bodge job, but not a dangerous bodge job…

Remove crown race. Pop crown race in cup of boiling water. Refit crown race.(Quickly) (If it’s still too tight, as has been advised forks will need attention)

Meh – just ride the thing – the crown race will settle in pretty quickly. As above – it’s not the best job, but it’s reasonably adequate.

Ok, great. Thanks for the advice chaps. Will see what a ride round Swinley will do to it!

I entirely disagree with any suggestion that this is O.k. A headset or crown race fitted just a tiny, invisible bit of perfectly straight will kill the bearings in short order, get it properly fixed.

Have done this myself when the hoover pipe wasn’t quite enough – settled within a fews days and a tighten of the headset, no probs.

A self-seating crown race, eh? Any shop that can’t fit one and suggests this is okay, doesn’t deserve your custom. How difficult is it to hit a piece of soft tube with a big mallet? Even I can do it. 🙄

Just spoke with LBS, they said they used a crown race slider tool which apparently was on the max limit. I’m assuming my fork was damaged from use on my old frame.

Again they advised to ride it in for a few weeks and tighten when necessary.

Will get some pictures up tonight.

they said they used a crown race slider tool which apparently was on the max limit

do you have a very long steerer on your fork?

It really does sound like they did half a job and gave up.

Yes, the steerer is very long as its come from an XL frame with a long headtube.

The guy seems honest and willing to help which leads to believe it was a difficult job. Am i being too kind?

montarius – Member

Yes, the steerer is very long as its come from an XL frame with a long headtube.

The guy seems honest and willing to help which leads to believe it was a difficult job. Am i being too kind?

I’m finding this thread hard to follow although I’m a complete amateur so what do I know, but how the hell does a LBS not have a facing tool for levelling off the headtube to take the new headset, come to that, how can they not seat the crown race? regardless of the length of the steering tube?

I’m surprised they didn’t just hammer the steering tube onto the headtube with a few nails.

BTW – yes, you are being too kind

yes. its an easy job with the correct tools. he might be honest. he might be jesus christ himself but it doesn’t sound like he has done it correctly. like ben says it isn’t dangerous, but it lacks a bit in the competency stakes.

sounds like they used something like this which wasn’t long enough to fully seat the race as it hit the top of the steerer first;

Good call on the long steerer. I’ve never come across this but then there is long and there is looooooong and by design the tool will only fit steerers up to a certain length. The LBS’ lack of ‘thinking outside the box’ is strong though. They do have the adapter that fits on the race to stop it getting damaged which is really all you ‘need’. BITD before I had all the tools, I’d just set an adjustable spanner so the jaws fitted on top of the flat parts of the race, with the handle at 90 degrees to the steerer, and then just whack the spanner with a hammer! Using a plastic pipe was way too pro 😉

i use a park one that is very similar to that and never ever have i found a steerer that is too long. even new uncut steerers.*

edit *which i appreciate could just mean ive not encountered a longer one, not that they dont exist. 😀

toppers3933 – Member

i use a park one that is very similar to that and never ever have i found a steerer that is too long. even new uncut steerers. the park tools one is 34cm