I just checked my chain stretch and found I’d exceeded the 0.75% limit so chucked on a KMC x9.73. First ride and the chain is skipping on the cassette (SRAM PG990/980 – can’t remember which) in all gears.

Options I can think of are

1: Cable tension wrong. Tension adjusted – still doing it.
2: Cogs catching on the quick-link. Jumping too often for that
3: Cassette eaten by stretched chain – possible
4: Chain is ‘sided’ and I’ve got it on the wrong way. No mention of this in the instructions and it looks symmetrical.
5: Chain is incompatible with cassette – possible.

Has anyone else found/solved this problem?

I ran this exact combo (kmc chain/sram cassette as above) for years with no problems.

It’s not 2, 4 or 5 above. Given you’ve eliminated 1, my money is firmly on 3.

Number 3, Number 3

Number 3. Put the old chain back on, ride until it breaks then replace the whole lot.

Thanks all – much appreciated.

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Got to agree with psycobiker & davewalsh , I tried this even at .5 & found the slightest wear on the cassette & a new chain completely incompatible.

Just run the original chain & cassette to destruction.

Guys running Shimano XTR kit claim to get away changing chains successfully according to chain tool indicators , but it’s never worked for me or some of my mates running ‘lesser ‘ kit !

New chain, old cassette = bad match.

The whole .75, .5 wear thing just isn’t precise. You might be okay, you might not. I still think Park Tools have a deal going with chain manufacturers, especially as they changed the limits from .75%/1% to .5%/.75%.

The argument is replace early (e.g. .5% now according to PT) and you can get 3 chains or whatever to one cassette.

But I’ve come to the conclusion you can just leave the worn chain on and it and the cassette will last the same amount of time anyway. So you end up replacing the cassette at the same frequency but save on the cost of chains.

There is a downside – if the chain is destroyed and you need a new one, you’ll need a new cassette. However if you use KMC it’s unlikely you’ll destroy the chain. It’s very rare even to snap a link, unlike a SRAM chain.

I’ve also been thinking of cycling my chains between my full sus and hard tail. i.e. whichever has the more worn chain, stick it on the other bike. Or if the least worn is barely worn, swap it for a new one and stick the worn one on the other bike. Not sure it’ll make a difference though.