• This topic has 11 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 10 years ago by DrP.
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  • Is converting my rear hub to 142 x 12 worth doing?
  • Recycler
    Free Member

    Hi all
    I’m thinking of converting my Yeti ASR5A at the back from QR to the 142 x 12mm bolt through. I can get the chip and axle kit for £80, but has anyone tried this? And to quote The Smiths…”So what difference does it make?” Is it worth doing?

    All thoughts and experiences would be most welcome.

    groundskeeperwilly
    Free Member

    Recycler-I did it when I had my ASR5 and it was brilliant! Stiffened up the back end and I felt al lot happier with the bike after doing it. Cost me about the same and I was happy with the outlay for what I thought was an improvement.

    Recycler
    Free Member

    Cheers Willy. Much appreciated

    Anyone else?

    iridebikes
    Free Member

    I would definitely do it… bolt through is a far superior system…

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    iridebikes – Member
    I would definitely do it… bolt through is a far superior system…

    If you need it due to the frame being floppy 🙂
    The Bolt through (not needed as the frame is stiff as anyway) on the Blur LTc means there are no dropouts to locate the wheel in which makes it much easier to scrape the disc on the stays. That and making it harder to locate anyway. Just take care when you fit the wheel. Never really had stiffness issues on some frames with QR.

    ratherbeintobago
    Full Member

    The Bolt through (not needed as the frame is stiff as anyway) on the Blur LTc means there are no dropouts to locate the wheel in which makes it much easier to scrape the disc on the stays. That and making it harder to locate anyway.

    Is that 135×12 or 142×12, though?

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    142×12

    wgm20
    Free Member

    I converted my 2010 enduro to 2012 spec rear end (which had a 142 bolt through rear). Wheel security is improved- I’ve never had the rear come loose with the bolt through- but have had the rear wheel fall out when on QR- I strongly suspect because I didn’t do it up properly. You can’t make that mistake with a bolt through.

    Stiffness wise, I couldn’t tell the difference. If you lean your bike over at 45 degrees and push hard on the flat side of the crank with your foot to generate some side load, it looks to me like you get a lot of the deflection at the rear from the hub to the rim and the next most from the rim to the tyre. I strongly suspect a stiffer rim and more spokes/higher spoke tension would have a much larger effect than stiffening the already relatively stiff hub interface.

    Though I guess the counter argument is, what’s different to the front? I can feel that a 36 mm stanchion fork with a 20 mm bolt through is noticeably stiffer than a 32 mm QR fork. Is it all in the stanchion diameter and increased lower to upper leg bushing area rather than the bolt though axle? There must be results from tests on bolt through/non bolt through forks of the same stanchion diameter- but I’ve never seen any….

    DrP
    Full Member

    I thought that 142mm was there to remedy the “where the f*** are the dropouts” issue that 135mm had….
    I.e, it’s bolt through, WITH dropouts…

    DrP

    ratherbeintobago
    Full Member

    I thought that 142mm was there to remedy the “where the f*** are the dropouts” issue that 135mm had

    So did I.

    DrP
    Full Member


    “See – It’s here in the SRAM manual…”

    DrP

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