Viewing 16 posts - 41 through 56 (of 56 total)
  • Internal Cable Routing…why
  • andreasrhoen
    Free Member

    Internal cable routing: for the ‘looks’ only

    function / service / upgrade: pain in the ass.
    Will never buy such a bike!

    FOG
    Full Member

    Internal cable runs made me take my bike to a mechanic for the first time ever. I am sure I could have replaced the cable myself but I just couldn’t face the aggravation

    stevextc
    Free Member

    I like it. Built my Kinesis up and it took a couple of goes to thread an inner through, tape it to the hose and pull back.

    Doing it once isn’t the issue… try running something like a Reverb where you have to pull the thing out every few weeks after its “worn in”… then the cable/hose seals are going in and out… I always end up damaging them bit either getting them in or out… so over doing it a few times the seals/grommets get even harder to fit back… and of course you’d replace the thing but that means pulling the brake hose out as well…

    Neither of my frames are routed brilliantly nor really badly… but both a a real pain to get the grommets out/back … so they are a pain even when you don’t need to pull a complete cable or hose out… especially the ones that take 2 …

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    akira
    Full Member

    My Cervelo is pretty easy, changed front mech cable in about ten minutes. It’s not internal routing that’s the issue, it’s poorly though out internal routing. Hydraulic disc road bikes with the brakes the wrong want round, internal routing and the bar tape already done, now that’s an issue.

    jabbi
    Free Member

    +1 Peterpoddy, assembling a current high end Madone is enough to put anyone off internal cables, massive ballache, obviously this means the bastard things are selling really well and I get to build loads 👿

    spooky_b329
    Full Member

    Doing it once isn’t the issue… try running something like a Reverb

    To be honest, I realised with a drop bar bike with cables under the bar tape, an internally routed dropper post would be impossible to remove (at least on my frame) as there is no where to release slack. So I went for a lever actuated post!

    stevextc
    Free Member

    Wiser than me …. I started off seeing the clean lines and such. Building it’s all positive… even with a poorer internal routing your still in the looks nice rather than how will I service it.

    I don’t need to remove the hoses to bleed the reverb or remove it but just moving them is a real pain I got to hate.

    It’s not like fixing a poorly working dropper or poorly working mech due to cables is on my list of 10 fav things to do so when I do have to do it I just want it to be quick and easy! Even if I did spend longer over say a year due to changing stuff more frequently there is a lot to be said for something takes 15 minutes vs something takes an hour or more, especially in Winter when daylight hours are more limited..

    russyh
    Free Member

    Got to say Orange internal routing is a joke and not thought out at all.

    I know haters gotta hate, but having just built up my new Hightower, Santa Cruz have it down perfectly for me. Where it’s internal there is no faf (rubber grommet aside) just push in the cable and out it pops, actually easier than external! No cable ties to worry about.

    I do like the external brake hose mind as no need to worry about olives, bleeding etc.

    tjagain
    Full Member

    If you have internal cable routing then you have to have extra holes in the frame. Holes in the frame are weak points so is the frame beefed up ie heavier to counter this? to me extra holes in the frame simply seem wrong

    Pawsy_Bear
    Free Member

    plus 1 for Santa Cruz, even the little things like cabling are sorted. My Bronson is external and so easy to work on.

    baldiebenty
    Free Member

    Had to do the gear cable on my G160S at the weekend, inner and outer as I had managed to wear a hole in the outer somehow, never done an internally routed cable before, hope to never do one again.

    Utter nightmare job, impossible to run the outer from the mech end because of the angles on the exit/entrance holes, grommets were so tight it was near impossible to feed the outer over the old inner.
    I had to remove the bottom grommet where the brake and gear cables run and was a pain to try and get the new outer back through the hole again as I couldn’t see inside at the right angle even with a torch(although it wasn’t quite as bad as I feared getting that back in again).

    In the end I was only able to do it by gorilla taping the old inner to the new outer and push/pulling it through the frame while praying that the cables didn’t come detached from each other. that only worked to a point as I had to remove the tape (removing freshly applied gorilla tape is no fun task either) because the holes on the chain stay were too small, took over 2 hours across 2 evenings.

    In retrospect I should have found a better way to attach the old outer to the new outer and push/pull it though that way, serves me right for watching youtube videos on the subject rather than thinking it through myself.

    darrenspink
    Free Member

    Think its something you just get used to and find little tricks when working on your own bike.

    External routing can look messy can’t it, unless its well thought out like Mondraker.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    Have a look at a welded frame. It’ll have holes in various places already.

    plyphon
    Free Member

    Holes in the frame are weak points

    I think the weak points are the welds by a fairly large margin.

    djglover
    Free Member

    I agree that setting up internal cables and hoses is a faff. However once achieved the benefit, certainly in terms of gear cabling, is that you have a much longer period of use between replacements as there is no entry point for dirt

    legend
    Free Member

    External full length cabling keeps the mud out just as well as internal full length cabling

Viewing 16 posts - 41 through 56 (of 56 total)

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