What should i be looking out for?
Sounds like a numpty question, but i really don’t know anything about those roady machines.

I’ll use it for…
Winter training rides, and when i don’t fancy the mud.
The Etape, as my friend wants me to join him next year.
Riding the local velodrome track as training when i don’t have time for an off-road ride.

I’m…..
100 kilos
Have very big legs and can flex most wobbly frames.
5’10” but prefer longer more stretched out riding positions.
Don’t want twangy steel. So Alu or Carbon.
Don’t mind buying second hand.
Can build service my own wheels, bikes etc:
Would prefer disks (as i’m not racing anything)

I wont be wearing lycra.

I dont understand ‘Compact Geometry’
I dont want anything fiddly to set-up
I dont want the lightest thing on the market (or rather i dont want to pay the price/need it)

Any pointers would be great thanks.

As a first time road bike buyer I’d recommend going to a lbs. See what they’ve got, sit on a few and buy whichever one takes your fancy.

First you should accept that you’ll probably get over your fear of putting yourself on show in lycra. Most people do 😉

Beyond that, I’d suggest trying a few bikes (mates’ ones maybe if you can otherwise try some in shops) and finding one you like. Be aware though that you might feel very low at the front and that riding a road bike may not be comfortable straight away.

Second hand can be great for road bikes as they typically wear less than mtbs.

Velodrome riding would probably be an issue unless you get a fixed/ss frame – unless it’s an outdoor track, they typically won’t let you on with a non-track bike.

Compact geometry can mean a few things but typically it just means frames with sloping top tubes.

I wont be wearing lycra.

You will be after you try and do any kind of training for the Etap and can’t sit down afterwards.

I dont understand ‘Compact Geometry’
I dont want anything fiddly to set-up
I dont want the lightest thing on the market (or rather i dont want to pay the price/need it)

Compact just means the top tube slopes to give more standover, produces a stiffer frame (supossedly) with more comfort from the longer seatpost (suposedly), as opposed to a traditional road frame with a horizontal top tube.

Disks aren’t nececary, and I’m still not convinced hydraulic disks are really a good idea on salty winter roads (already reports of them siezing, corroding, disolving and they’ve only been out a few months), yes they save rims, yes they work better in the wet, but they’re not essential and bring other issues. Also check the rules on the Etape.

Don’t discount steel, I really like my aluminium cannondale, but I keep geting drawn to audax type bikes which really are better for long winter training rides (clerance for 28mm tyres and guards for a start).

The choice will boil down to:
Racing bike (25mm tyres MAX, one or two new ones with disk brakes like the CAAD10 now, can take minimalist guards)
Sportive bikes (as above, but a bit more relaxed)
Audax/Commuter/’CX’/Lightweight tourers (as a sportive bike, but will take 28mm+ tyres, more likley to have disk options, etc).

Avoid actual CX bikes as opposed to commuter-CX bikes, they’re often stiff and uncomfortable, designed for maximum power transfer and letting the knobly tyres/soft ground provide any modicum of comfort for short 90min races.

What’s the budget? 2nd hand is usualy very good VFM as long as you avoid anything clearly worn out, but you’re unlikley to find a huge choice of disk braked budget options as shimano disk brakes have only been available <6months, might find BB7’s but then you’ve got cables again and that’s 90% of the faff.

After just one ride with the annoyance of loose lothing flapping in the wind you’ll be straight on to Wiggle for some dhb lycra kit.

I am also 100KG, and have an Alu Giant Defy 1.
It is a great bike, however I have all the finese of a rutting Bull elephant and have managed to knock the tension out of the rear wheel over a long cobbled tow path.

I’m going to upgradev the wheels in a couple of months, which will kill that problem off.

In short – go sit on a Giant Defy..

Avoid actual CX bikes as opposed to commuter-CX bikes

There’s also the third category now – CX bikes designed for riding offroad but not racing. IME they’re great for everything from road to cx unless you’re a pro at either.

Planet X Rt 58?

Edit: sorry, missed the discs part but don’t really think you need them on a “road” bike anyway.
My SRAM red calipers far outperform my mechanical discs.

Stereotypical first answer – Go to the LBS, have a chat, sit on a few bikes, see what fits.

More generally, bikes marketed as “sportive”, “endurance” such like would be a good start, Giant Defy, Spec Allez, Cannondale Synapse, etc. These will give you predictable handling and a more upright comfortable position. However, these are built to flex a little to aid this comfort, so you may not have an ultra stiff frame.

Disk brakes are going to add a chunk to the price and limit your choice second hand, how much this worries you is your call. Their benefit is debatable as well.

Self build is an option but, as you don’t know what size or geometry you need an full bike from an LBS may be a better option, some will give you a bike fit as part of the price.

Lycra, like it or not, works on a road bike, particularly if you ride any distance. It’s not pretty on a lot of people (myself included) but it is the right tool for the job.

For minimum fiddlyness, Di2 (electronic shifting) is by all accounts wonderful and faff-free, not cheap mind. Everything else is comparable to MTB’s bar the shifters which work with no faff at all bar the odd bit the first time you try to put a cable inner through them.

Hope that helps.

I was in a similar position to the OP in 2012 – 105kg rider.

Used the competitive cyclist bike fit calculator for road bike sizing – easier with an assistant linky

Then looked at the figures vs a few brands i liked. Ended up going with a canyon roadlite as could spec wider bars, stem length and specific cassette range. Really comfortable fit.

Also, agree with the above regarding lycra. Commuting 24 miles one way into a constant headwind with baggies on soon got tiring. Lycra for the win! No shaved legs though!

After just one ride with the annoyance of loose lothing flapping in the wind you’ll be straight on to Wiggle for some dhb lycra kit.

for balance I have had a road bike for 4 years now and haven’t felt the need for lycra

Great, thanks everyone. Lots of good tips there.

I currently have a carbon 29er/700c cross type affair for gravel tracks and tow paths etc:
So, the bike i’ll want will be a proper road bike.

So, maybe disks aren’t as important as i thought. Can’t imaging having the required braking to stop my 100kgs + on rims tho’.

I’ll check out the Sportive type bikes first, and get an idea of fit per manufacturer etc:

The lycra thing was more of a flippancy than anything. I do ride with lycra shorts under my baggies for comfort, and a few tighter fitting tops would not be all that bad (at least i cant actually see the offending ‘me’)

Budget is not the real driving force, but my N+1 is getting out of hand, so might have to keep it under 1K.

so, the Planet X Pro Carbon Shimano 105 @ 20% off right now is looking pretty good. hmmm……

I’m similar weight and while I love my discs on my CX/road bike, my ‘proper’ road bike with rim brakes is fine in terms of dealing with my weight.