Brilliant. Thanks Tinsy. If I can get that and a 30T chainring I reckon that will be brilliant.

I’ve had a few 1×7/8/9 bikes now for various different uses, and while they all worked, I’m back to having an 2×8 bike now and I really can’t see the point of a single ring for anything but a DH, 4X or Jump bike, the weight difference is marginal at best, the cost is generally about the same and while your local trails may be nice and flat you never know if you’ll want to go elsewhere where a granny ring may come in handy…

Anyway here’s and example though of one of my old setups:

1×8 – 11-28, 8spd cassette with a 32t chain ring on a hone (originally triple) crank with a BETD manacle chain device, it worked pretty well, chain stayed on could pedal up and down stuff…
The crank is now fitted as a double + bash on my trail bike which is a good 2.5Lbs lighter than the bike pictured, and the chain device is being used on my DH bike as it should be…

can’t see the point of a single ring for anything but a DH, 4X or Jump bike

or a trail bike used on rocky stuff where the chain bounces off lots?

the weight difference is marginal at best

front xt shifter, cable and outer, front mech, xtr granny ring, straitline bash = 510g

e13lg1+ = 200g so nearly 3/4lb saved,

mrp1x = 58g so 1lb saved.

its not for everyone but there are benefits to setting your bike up this way. i love not having to coast after rocky stuff now ive fitted a chain device. no matter how tight i ran the chain or what bash and dual guide i tried it just didnt work. good for a bit of extra leg strength too, especially if you tend ot ride shorter distances over the winter; it encourages you to attack climbs a bit more.

i will be refitting my granny for the alps next year though!

i'm running 1×9 on my superlight, using standard 32t shimano middle ring on xt cranks, short cage sram x9 rear mech and have dropped the chain once in 9 months riding 3 times a week 😯
including dalby, whinnlatter, gisburn, grizedale etc.
set it up right and you don't need a chain device…imo.

agree with previous post, dropping the big and granny rings was the best move i ever made regarding fitness.

Dropped a chain 13 times in 1h 20 mins race at Lotts Wood, would drop a chain maybe once a ride on my local loop… was setup perfect with XTR mech, also tried and SLX Shaddow as they have a stronger spring, though both was a long cage, that was on my Tinbred, reckon its worse on a hardtail, and it definately depends where you ride.

For every good story there is a bad. 🙂

on my swift

i'm on 11-34 cassette, x9 super short rear mech, surly SS 33t chainring, an n-gear jump stop and a fsa bash ring..

though as on the flat I spent most of the time in 33-13 think of going to 32 on the front and 12-36 on the rear – sameish top end but lower bottom

XTR M970 cranks, middleburn slickshift hardcoat 34T middle ring, middleburn 22T hardcoat inner ring. E-13 DRS with machined out bashring.

Never, ever drops the chain. shifts perfectly. Was running a 36T but shifting was poor due to the position of the pivot on the 5. Using a medium cage XTR shadow mech. Very quiet setup too – even on an orange. Great for proper riding in the peak district.

The only issue I have is the bearings in the roller which frequently fill with mud and seize up.

Sorry for the poor quality photo – from my phone.

or a trail bike used on rocky stuff where the chain bounces off lots?

E13 DRS, Blackspire stinger or similar dual ring chain device pretty much cures that problem, I’m using a shitty DMR on mine right now, which once I changed the roller works as well as an LRP or Stinger would, never drops the chain, I bet my HT “trail” bike rattles the chain a lot more than some 4-6” IT manager’s sled…

As for the weight saving, great you’ve saved a1Lb, I’m sure that pitiful bag of sugar will be a major comfort when your blowing out your arse on a long grinding climb where a few more grams and a granny ring would have made all the difference, I’ve owned single ring bikes they aren’t that versatile, if you’re going to have gears why not have a full range rather than a limited “in the middle” set that’ll be fine until your faced with a proper climb…

Mrp1x? what a crock, you’ve spent £40 because you can’t operate the limit screws on your front mech, and you’ll still need bottom roller or else chain ditches more than with a triple & mech setup so now it’s cost you at least £70, you may as well just buy a proper single ring chain guide or stick with a double/triple chainset, the weight saving is pointless if it’s functionally useless….

blackspire stinger didnt work for me, not on this bike anyway. ran one on a blur 4x and it was fine. i dont work in IT and the only sled i own is a plastic one. i thought we were talking about bikes?

out of personal preference i climb in the middle ring, a habit i got into on my blur 4x cos it climbed so bad in the granny. once you adapt your technique its not so tough, even on flats.

i dont use an mrp1x, though i hear they are pretty good for xc racer types. i run an lg1 and its great for the peaks etc. ive stil got all the gears and stuff for if i go somewhere that the climbs might break me (alps or something).

as i said before its not for everyone but for some of us there are benefits to setting a bike up this way, so for you to suggest that because you dont like it then it must be wrong or that a persons job dictates how 'gnar' they are kind of misses the point. thanks for trying though.

I would just like to point if anyone would like to run a BB mounted chain device, with ISIS cranks, i have an FSA platinum Pro E type BB that is ideal for this application i will take £25 posted for it