Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • I want to run a continuous outer gear cable: do I need special outers?
  • poppa
    Free Member

    Question is in the title. Do I need special low friction outers (or inners for that matter), or can I use any old outer?

    Also, does a continuous set-up end up looking nice and taught in the frame, like it does with split-outers?

    carlphillips
    Free Member

    1.yes i use any old outer and mine are fine

    2.no, but it depends on how fussy you are, mine dont look too bad i guess

    poppa
    Free Member

    P.S Thanks.

    nath86
    Free Member

    personally i found replacing gearouter for new is your best bet if you want smoother shifting!!!

    geetee1972
    Free Member

    Continuous outer cables do increase the friction on the inner cable, so if you can aford it, use a set of Gore cables. They are silly expensive for cables (about £50 for a set front and rear) but they are well worth the money. I've got a single ring set up using a Gore cable on the rear mech that's been untouched for 18 months, i.e. coming up for two winters.

    Aside from using Gore cables, I found that a regular continuous outer set up will last longer than a split set up before it needs maintenance. The only problem is that when it does need maintenance, you have to replace the whole thing. Split runs, although in need of maintenance probably once every 1-2 weeks in the winter, will last a lot longer before they need replacing.

    MidLifeCyclist
    Free Member

    Can't use split outers on my frame because it doesn't have any (stop)lugs. When I built the bike up I used some xtr inners that I had with standard outers from my LBS. Even when new there was a lot of friction when shifting and it didn't take long before the gears were ghosting and very hard to set up.

    I looked at the alternatives and found that most gear sets didn't come with enough cable to both front and rear and that two sets would therefore be required (about £40 for Jagwire – ouch)

    So instead bought per meter from the following –

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CYCLE-BIKE-SLICK-LINED-ATB-GEAR-OUTER-CABLE-JAGWIRE_W0QQitemZ330368644489QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item4ceb817589

    The shifting, with this outer, is now very good with very little friction – and it didn't cost a fortune, so will be happy to replace it a couple of times a year if need be.

    Cheers

    nickc
    Full Member

    split runs, although in need of maintenance probably once every 1-2 weeks in the winter,

    You're doing it wrong, then.

    Creaky
    Full Member

    I was getting frequent shifting problems with split cables, so I switched to continuous. I just bought enough low friction inner and outer direct from Fibrax, which cost £13.96. I then opened up the cable stops with a needle file. You can't really get the cable run along the top tube straight but 3 months later, shifting is still very smooth. I guess the real test will be what it's like when spring eventually comes.

    I don't really buy this idea that there will be more friction with a continous setup. Surely, most of the friction arises where the cable is curved and the extra friction from continous outers will be negligible. It certainly is on my bike.

    poppa
    Free Member

    Sooo… bearing in mind that I will be running 1×9 so only need one gear cable, I could either buy this for £12.59:

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Transfil_Black_Snake_Gear_Cable_Set/5300005632/

    Which apparently includes:

    2 gear Teflon coated inner wires minimum length of 1900mm
    1 incompressible gear outer casing 1800mm
    6 self-locking casing end caps with support sleeve
    4 self-locking casing end caps
    2 Zamak cable end caps
    Water proof tubing 1700mm

    Not sure what the water proof tubing is about, but I would get some spares too.

    Or I could buy some XTR inner and a teflon lined outer, for a total of £10:

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Transfil_Outer_Gear_Casing/5360011240/
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=27230

    Either of these options should be OK shoudn't they? Let me know if I am barking up the wrong conifer.

    Cheeky-Monkey
    Free Member

    LBS, 2 m of whatever they have on a reel (or 3 m ish if F and R mechs). Any old inner. Whack it on, get on with riding. You seem to be thinking about it too much 😉

    A noticeable difference in resistance between continuous and interupted outers? Pfffft, not IME. Or maybe I just have manly thumbs 😉

    poppa
    Free Member

    I can see this from both sides. Think I will just get the Transfil kit and be done…

    13thfloormonk
    Full Member

    I think you get different diameters of gear outer. I accidently used the fatter of the two, with a standard inner, and my shifting is super light despite many hours in very wet scottish conditions.

    Looks awful though, I just zip tied it to the top tube, mmmm…industrial!

    tinsy
    Free Member

    I run the £5 fibrax braided stuff off CRC cos it looks nice, and with a shaddow rear mech it comes in exactly the right length for an 18" Inbred or Scandal wich was a pure coincidence but a bonus. 🙂 Oh I also pop a Middleburn oiler in the line, cant see me changing cables for years.

    takisawa2
    Full Member

    I use the XT stuff CRC sell by the metre.
    Works a treat.
    I'll never use sectioned outers again.
    One less thing to worry about.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

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