Lots of good books already mentioned – I use:

Paterek (old and new editions – the old edition has lots of handy handwritten stuff)
Talbot
Hadland
Bicycling Science
Mike Burrows’ book
Archibald Sharp

And a bunch of others I’ve forgotten. If you’re in Glasgowe, you’re very welcome to come browse the Kinetics bike book library 😉

Ha, I knew I had a book list on my website somewhere – really must organise the website better. Anyhow:

http://www.kinetics.org.uk/html/the_reading_list.shtml

Not with a smart google its not:
http://bhovey.com/Masi/Scans/Talbot/index.htm

for this use a website downloader like WinHTTrack Website Copier!

Sorry, can’t get photo to appear.

the last edition of Privateer has a goog article on frame layout etc, pt 2 next issue.

Sort a basic frame shape / size based on bikecad, a proper cad package or good old pencil and paper. Start from the dimensions of the bike you ride and what you want to change.

Go to Ceeway website (www.framebuilding.com).

Go to Columbus tube pages – print everything off (especially and including the bit at the bottom with discontinued / non tubeset tubes).

Study it all. There are lots of handy diagrams that show you lengths of butts, which end to cut from and what the maximum amount you can cut. This will give you some clues. It will also give you some suggested tubesets for different builds (mtb, road etc). Plus some clues for specific bike builds (e.g. they list a long 35mm dia. Zona down tube for 29er use). That then gives a few ideas about what tube to use for what. Head tubes are just a bit of plain gauge pipe. Seat tube can also just be a bit of plain gauge. Rear stays will often be described as mtb or road anyway – so there aren’t that many choices for you to make anyway 🙂

Compare tubes to your design – you will find there is only a limited selection that will work (tube lengths, butt lengths etc).

Provided you aren’t big and heavy, super clumsy, hucking off things or building with a huge length fork, then pretty much any bike can be made with any tubeset – it won’t collapse on the first ride. The differences will be in the stiffness, fatigue life etc.

If I were in your situation then I’d probably use the money for a framebuild course as it will give you confidence in fabrication and an experienced judgement on your design choices. I was lucky enough to do an apprenticeship before my degree, so was happy with the cutting / filing / machining bit – I just needed some practice with scrap to get my brazing up to a functional level (you are much more likely to build a safe frame by amateur brazing rather than amateur welding).

Another good book that also contains mtb info is Touring Bikes by Tony Oliver (but specific tubing advice is very out of date)

After a few years you’ll be making stuff like this:-

And as the 29er above has 16″ stays I suppose I’d better briefly address cynic-al’s comment…….

Short stays aren’t “faster” or “better”.

I tried a Giant 29er. Nice bike, but hated the steep head angle for various reasons. So I started by wanting a slacker head with complimentary increased fork rake.

But a slack bike with regular length stays can end up rather long and ponderous. Hence the desire for short stays – to get the front end I wanted but on a bike that felt nippier. Coupled to this was singlespeed only use which means lots of standing up climbing (but never steep enough climbing to have issues with “looping out” that Ade mentioned but miss typed). I don’t weigh a great deal, so the shorter stays help with much needed weight on the rear wheel and hence traction.

I tried a Trek 29er back to back with my bike at Whinlatter – the difference was amazing. The owner of the Trek (also smallish and lightweight) is wondering if they bought the right bike 🙂

Sorry, can’t get photo to appear.

here you go.

I have the sharp book it has some fantastic ideas in it suspension bikes two person unicycles nothing is new
Mine was £20 from the oxfam shop

Cheers Mick_R that’s the kind of info/advice I was after.

Righty, time to look into courses.