I’ve been considering juin R1’s but took a look at hy-rd also. I’ve also seen suggested going RS685 and ditching the whole cable brake issue. This is tempting but I don’t want a new back wheel. Existing hub is 135 8-9-18 mtb.

Threads on thus become confused due to Road hubs being weird from a mtb pov.

Is a 10sp mtb hub going to take an 11sp Rd cassette with a spacer? If so, how much spacer?

If not, is there an acceptable way to end up with good 10sp shifting on 685 levers? Doesn’t need to be race class just good and reliable.

Right now it’s all 5700 105…

Are the TRPs and keeping existing kit the best option?

Ta!

11 speed road freehub is longer than 10 speed road freehub- so you can’t spacer things about.. (10 speed road freehub is the same as mtb)

This is tempting but I don’t want a new back wheel.

Not sure if I’ve missed something, but…

(Edit: ah, yes, of course I have. 11sp. Duh. It’s getting late.)

I rebuilt my back wheel with a Hope pro 2evo and changed the freehub to convert mine to 11 speed.

Did just this before Xmas. Old Hope hubs with no option to add an 11 speed cassette which will be too wide (I am ignoring xtr and other silly priced cassettes which can fit a 10 speed freehub.
Either find an 11 speed cassette which has no integral carrier for the biggest sprockets ( I couldn’t find one) or buy the 11 speeder that fits your needs and then ditch a middle sprocket and fit the nowspare spacer before the cassette goes on. Indexing will need changing. Shimano and SRAM have different cassettes and there are differences within each manufacturer so you have a good choice of which sprocket to leave out. This works although being able to ditch the biggest would have suited me better. You may need an 11 speed rear mech if Shimano. SRAM doesn’t

Might be worth investigating an 11 speed freehub for your wheels. Sometimes you can swap. Magic wheels take an 11 anyway in some cases.

I’m pleased with the Acor hydraulics I’ve stuck on my Arkose, which are rebranded versions of the Juin Tech. I originally bought 2 sets but change of plan means I still have one set brand new unused, was about to advertise them – £90?

I saw an instagram by Sam at Singular on converting 10s rear hub to take shimano 11s:

View this post on Instagram

11speedification – how to turn a 10 speed freehub body into an 11 speed compatible one… #gcnhack

A post shared by Singular Cycles (@singularcycles) on Jan 6, 2016 at 10:46am PST

I changed from HyRd’s to RS685’s on my Whyte CX back at the start of last year. I had the same 10/11 speed problem and overcame it with a new set of Mavic Ksyrium Pro Disc wheels. 😳
My son has the same Whyte CX and wants to upgrade to RS685’s this year so I’ve replaced the Whyte hub in his rear wheel an XT 11 speed one (new hub and spokes cost around £80 so not cheap even if you DIY).

Aha.

So, I was trying to identify the freehub on my main daily wheels and discover that every single driveside spoke is kinked (actually bent in a u) at the second cross to differing degrees. This could well be a rebuild in the works whether I wanted one or not.

I run two wheelsets, the oe Road type Alex’s on generic mtb hubs with Road tyres and a set of old Flow 29s on Shimano 515’s courtesy of Mr Merlins knock down emporium with 35 knobblies. That would make anything needing the freehub/whole hub replacing for 11sp Road cassettes expensive, so I think the RS685 option is probably out unless anyone wants to seriously vouch for removing a cog and then I assume limiting the travel of a 5800RD as I understand cable pull and geo is changed from 5700 (thanks Shimano) . 685 may well be out on cost grounds tbh, best part of £300 and then bodging the drivetrain to make it work is making me itch a bit…

I’m going to try an MTB 11 speed cassette this week on a 10sp freehub with my 11 sp set up because i have quite a few sets of old wheels.

Ive had TRP hyrd’s, and hope v-twin and they are simply rubbish compared to full hydros! Even though they are expensive and require some upgrades they are well worth it especially if your bike is getting filthy all they time.

Removing a sprocket works fine. Can’t comment on getting the mech working as I am on SRAM and 10 and 11 speed mechs are interchangeable. I love to run 11 sprockets but until I am brave enough to either machine thee freehub or cassette I’ll stay 10. Jonk, report back please.

For info the brakes I mentioned earlier are now sold! 🙂

I’m finding the Acor (Juin) pretty good. Coping well with the crappy wet roads around here ATM. Can get a little noisy on some of the steeper (15% plus) descents off the Downs but they haven’t let me down at all. Not needed much adjustment either.

My Acor are brilliant. They’ve survived several quagmire cx races and post race hose pipe action and are still like new. Easy to adjust for pad wear.