Hey all

I have just installed a pair of Shimano xt m765 hydraulic brakes(2004 or 2005)They fit perfectly on the rotors and mounts i had already installed.
My original brakes were Tektro Auriga comp that came on my bike from new (2010 Hard rock pro)
I expected a massive improvment over the Tektros but the shimanos seem poor in comparison.
The shimano came with pads(used but with a good amount left on them)
(Finally the question…..sorry)
Is this due to the shimanos being old tech?
Do you think the Xt are an upgrade over the Tektro?
Thanks for any answers, i dont want to spend extra doe on pads and a bleed kit to find they will never match up to the Tektros anyway.

Thanks llama

?

ermmm i would buy a set of second hand hopes and sell the 2 sets you have got?

Moneys on the tight side at the mo,i only paid £40 for the xt just wanna know wether its work messing with them or not?

A good bleed would be a start.

What you think Tektro or shimano?

shimano but put the Tektro’s back on untill you have new pads and bleed kit

I think you’ve underestimated the Tektros- I did the same, they’re surprisingly good brakes. Not as good as the 2010 XTs I fitted to replace them, but they ran them far closer than I expected, and I was really disappointed when I upgraded. So yes there won’t be a massive upgrade going to old XTs, even if they worked right, which it sounds like they don’t.

But before you do anything else, check and see if the pads are the same design- Auriga Comps use a pad pinched from some old Shimanos and it might be that they interchange with your “new” XTs. If so then there’s nothing to be lost trying new pads in the Shimanos. Likewise the XTs probably don’t need a “proper” bleed kit, a syringe and a bit of clear hose usually does for old Shimano as they’re open-top systems (and you can use the same kit to bleed Aurigas, and the same fluid). So no matter what none of this stuff will be wasted.

O.k guys,thanks for the posts,im gonna give them a pad change and a bleed,see how it goes.

I had Tektros Auriga Comps on my GT Avalanche. I changed them for Hope Mono 4’s expecting a massive difference and it didn’t happen no matter how I bled them or what pads I used. As Northwind has said the Tektros really are good brakes without the chic brand name.
Change of pads and a bleed as others have said will make a difference as will cleaning up your old discs. Even then I think you will have like for like perfomance and feel.

Did you bed the pads in? With old pads and different discs you should re-bed the
In to match the surfaces

Hi,

Well i had Tektros on and they are fantastic brakes, certainly powerfull enough, even more so with Kevlar pads. But there was no modulation which is why i got rid of them.

I’ve just got some 2012 xt’s. And they are out of this world. Powerfull never fade, and wicked modulation so you can have as little or as much as you want.

But for your brakes, Rob Jackson is correct. But not only do you need to bed them in, you need to resurface the pads. So get some fine grit sand paper, and place it on a flat surface. Then simply lightly rub the pads on them in a circular motion. This will resurface them.

Then bed them in. If your still not happy, Re bleed your brakes.

Sound like a dumb question, how do i bed them in? Is it just a case of a slight preasure for the first ten mins of ride time?

Ride fast down a steep hill on the road, lots of heavy braking (5-10 times) from 20mph to almost stationary, then repeat. Gets the discs and pads really warm and that should do it.

Bedding in…. Hmmmmm there are millions of threads, ideas etc etc.

I Stick the bike in the easiest gear, and pedal around for a few minutes with the brake on, then pour some water on. If it sizzles jobs done. If not do it again. Back brake wont take long to warm up atall.

Hill things ok, but by the time you’ve cycled up again, they cooled down.

hrcmonty, obviously the hills near you arent very big….
Just ride until you’re going fast, slam the anchors on, then repeat to the bottom of the hill. I wouldnt have thought mincing about in the lowest gear is going to get them hot enough tbh.

I’ve bedded in loads of brakes via my method. and there is Liturally 30seconds of Low effort ‘Mincing’ about. And the Brakes get sizzling hot.

I also Bed in the Motorcycle trials Brakes in the same way to bed new pads in. So Please you keep ‘Mincing’ about with your hills. My method is done and finished by the time you’ve even got to the top of your hill.

Actually i’m out Pads bedded and in having a brew by the time you’ve started on your little descent. 😆

The hoses on the new brakes are a fair but longer than the old ones and need cutting down will shorter hoses improve the performance any?

I most probably will be stand corrected. But no, hose length will not make a difference.

I hate to say it, but is there a possibility the wrong Fluid has been used by the previous owner when bled. Shimano use Mineral, so if they’ve been bled with DOT, then theres a chance all the seals are knackered.

But also in my expirience, contmainated or poor pads make a massive difference.

Personally i would –
Get new pads from Superstar, get Kevlar.
Get some Brake fluid and Bleed them and stick some new pads in there.

I use the same method hrcmonty. Ride around for a little while with the brakes held on pushing hard against the resistance. Brakes get pretty hot in no time at all.

They other sure fire method is just to go out for a ride. They will be working fine by the end of it

No shorter hoses wont. If they need doing for asthetics thats another matter!

If there is plenty of pressure at the lever bleeding wont help either.

Have you taken the bike for a ride? They should settle in all on there own.

I have tried bedding in etc, not really found anything better than just riding them and abusing them. Opinions as you see, vary.

Then simply lightly rub the pads on them in a circular motion. This will resurface them.

figure of 8.

rootes1 i think a figure of 9 is by far best 😉

But honestly yes a figure of 8 is best to get all edges of the pad material going against the grain.

tinsy – Member
No shorter hoses wont. If they need doing for asthetics thats another matter!

If there is plenty of pressure at the lever bleeding wont help either.

Have you taken the bike for a ride? They should settle in all on there own.

This^

How about in a figure of ‘0’?

Besides blatting down hill is MUCH easier than pedalling against the brakes. Talk about making life difficult!
Whichever way you bed them in, getting them nice and hot is the way to go.

Do any of you know, if i can re-use all the bits after i cut my hoses down or will i need buy a kit?Is it just a case of cutting and then pushing the fitting back in to the freshly cut hose?

Not sure about Shimano specifically, but normally you can get away with re-using the barbs, so long as you are careful with them, but the olive will deform when the initial joint was made, so you should really replace them.

I think a lot of the time with brakes, power will be similar as it’s a hydraulic system with a certain strength user and a certain area of braking material….but the difference between the brakes comes down to the ‘feel’. Are they like an on/off switch or can you press the lever gently to get a bit of braking, a bit more to get a bit more braking etc. IMO the more you spend, the better the modulation of the brakes, unless you go for some big 4 pot caliper systems….
People often confuse power with grabby brakes, as you hardly pull the lever and they are on hard.

The modulation does feel better with the XT set,the Tektro were on or off,thats the main reason for the change over,that and the straight levers were a pain as i have small hands.It seems the braking point only bites after half the levers travel,it also seems i have to pull very hard to get(stop right now power)