Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)
  • How well have your specialized tyres resisted burping?
  • deanfbm
    Free Member

    As the title. Gave a purgatory control a go on the rear a couple of years ago on a flow, burping was a problem for me.

    Bad luck?

    Poor combo?

    Now on hope techs which look to have a true UST style bead hook/rim profile/bump.

    parkesie
    Free Member

    Gc front and rear not burped once 29 on crest.

    qwerty
    Free Member

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    colournoise
    Full Member

    Various Purgs/Butchers/Captains on Flow & Flow EX. Had the odd little burp on both ends but nothing major (except managing to rip the front tyre right off the rim one at Cannock of all places! – don’t think any tyre would have stayed on then though).

    parkesie
    Free Member

    I burp from both ends occasionally.

    olderigetfasteriwas
    Free Member

    I burped my Captain control on a crest rim last year, it was on a sideways landing off a small jump, and was enough to dent the rim too. Tyre wouldn’t seal after, and I didn’t have a tube on me, weekday afternoon, getting dark, and resulted in an hour walk back to the car. I’ve now started carrying a tube again.

    enigmas
    Free Member

    I’ve ran most specialized tyres (fast trak, GC, Purg, Butcher) on flows and flow ex’s for the last 3 years without a single burb. (75kg kitted up running around 26-28psi).

    Recently moved over to the Grid casing butcher which I found can go to 22-24psi without feeling like the tyres rolling in corners. The stickier compound also helps a lot on wet roots/rocks.

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    If I was sending big jumps and landing sideways with whips then I’d use rim-strips as well as tubeless-ready tyres and rims.

    Superficial
    Free Member

    If I was sending big jumps and landing sideways with whips then I’d use rim-strips as well as tubeless-ready tyres and rims.

    Interesting. Why?

    I mean, how would that help stop rolling the tyre/ burping?

    deanfbm
    Free Member

    ^Ghetto tubeless is the answer apparently.

    If if works for graves, it has gotta work for me.

    My only quibble with that is that you’re going to be making your rim a little narrower.

    Superficial
    Free Member

    Hmm interesting. I sort of understand that it might help protect against burps, but I don’t think I understand why it can’t pinch in the same way? Surely the extra rubber of a tube isn’t significant?

    Do you reckon a 26″ tube stretched onto a 650b rim would work? Or still go for 24 or 20″?

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    I’ve wondered if it might work best with the rim-strip on the inside of the tyre bead rather than the outside, so when the tyre pulls off the bead seat it still is sealed from the inside?

    If you look at a Continental Apex sidewall it just has a little extra rubber near the bead to stop pinch flats – think of the rim-strip as a ‘crumple zone’ to prevent sidewall cuts.

    Definitely not 26″ tube on a 27.5″, too loose! 20″ stretches a long way.

    paul123
    Free Member

    Run a clutch on the back with a flow EX quite a bit. The first one I had was fine but I lost confidence in it after burping it without doing anything too serious , I.e. Cruising round a pump track and a slight sideways landing at BPW on the first run of the day.

    Never thought of trying it but wouldn’t mind trying the ghetto thing on the rear.

    simondbarnes
    Full Member

    Not a single burp with Purg / GC on Crests here.

    deanfbm
    Free Member

    I’ve wondered if it might work best with the rim-strip on the inside of the tyre bead rather than the outside, so when the tyre pulls off the bead seat it still is sealed from the inside?

    My thoughts exactly. Think i’m going to try 0,45mm thickness maxxis flyweight tubes, ghetto, with stans style tape to act as a nice slick surface so that when bead is dislodged, tube under bead goes with it retaining the seal.

    With burping, just as with a tube, it isn’t an issue the bead being dislodged, it’s just that when you’re tubeless and the bead is dislodged, the air gets dumped out. If you still allow the bead to dislodge but can still retian an airtight seal, no issue.

    Superficial
    Free Member

    What you’re talking about is surely tubulars for MTB? It’s impossible to burp them.

    shortcut
    Full Member

    It isn’t the tyres, or the rims. It’s how soft they are. Pump them up a bit harder.

    deanfbm
    Free Member

    Yea, a 2 piece tub that relies on the bead rather than glue to stay on the rim. Evan going to get some rubber vulcanising solution on the bead when it first goes up to make it definitely airtight.

    Went through the whole tyre pressure stuff tubeless before with the stans flow rim, would end up around 35psi for something somewhat reliable, which is horrible in terms of ride quality.

Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)

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