Viewing 28 posts - 1 through 28 (of 28 total)
  • How to set breeze blocks on a 10° concrete floor?
  • Pook
    Full Member

    We want to put a Belfast sink in the kitchen, supported by breeze blocks. Probably painted white. Classy I know.

    How do you do that? I don’t know where to start

    carlos
    Free Member

    Bed the first 2 on mortar so they’re level, stack the rest on top?

    nickjb
    Free Member

    Or just cut the first row blocks at 10 degrees. If you really mean breeze blocks (or thermalites) you can cut them with a normal wood saw, although you will blunt it so use a cheap one.

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    wrightyson
    Free Member

    How high? 4 course is 900mm. Maybe go flat for extra bearing of the sink? Waste pipe and hot cold feeds in polished copper and on show?

    wrightyson
    Free Member

    And 3 course is 675 so obviously more suited once you place the sink on 😳

    Pook
    Full Member

    Will the mortar stick week enough then? Don’t I need to rough the floor up a bit first?

    Pook
    Full Member

    *well

    bearnecessities
    Full Member

    I’m not sure violence will help.

    twisty
    Full Member

    Your floor is sloping by 10 degrees (rather than being 10 degrees celcius)? which way is it sloping? That is a pretty extreme slope for a floor.

    Anyway, assuming the slope falls backwards and you are running the blocks along the slope then just cut the blocks to match the slope.

    If you are running the blocks perpendicular to the slope then maybe you need some haunching or fastner or something.

    Key the concrete if it is polished.

    tonyplym
    Free Member

    Lightweight/aircrete blocks are not often left exposed to knocks and bangs because they’re comparatively soft and easy to dent . . . or are you looking for a “lived in” effect ?

    Pook
    Full Member

    Just something to hold the sink up.

    And yeah twisty, it’s a steep slope. The sink would be at the top of the slope/back garage wall.

    Pook
    Full Member

    hi folks, here’s a bit more info. And i checked the floor – it’s at 13 degrees – you can see the direction of the slope by looking at the blocks on the wall.

    Here we’d be wanting to plumb the sink and a washing machine too.

    joshvegas
    Free Member

    If it was you that laid the floor I can’t wait to see the after pic.

    *lol*

    Pook
    Full Member

    You’re gonna have to explain that

    futonrivercrossing
    Free Member

    Why the hell is your floor sloaping at 13* !!!!!

    Pook
    Full Member

    i live on a hill.

    phiiiiil
    Full Member

    How the hell is your floor sloping like that? Self-unlevelling compound?

    Pook
    Full Member

    It’s on a steep hill. I live on a hill. A hill. Hill.

    cloudnine
    Free Member

    I guess the builders didnt use a level and just used the natural slope of the ground to build the house.. does the whole building ‘lean’??

    Pook
    Full Member

    I don’t notice as I have one leg shorter than the other. Now. How to set these blocks?

    jonahtonto
    Free Member

    a hill?
    i dont understand why your floor is like that?
    things get built level not just following the local topography.
    level the floor out mun, then you wont have to prop your fridge up on bricks!

    i suppose you could make a shutter and pour some concrete in to level it off before you lay the blocks maybe. if your set on the idea of a sloping floor, could make a plinth for the fridge while your at it

    Pook
    Full Member

    Ok. I’ll level the floor. I’ll have a foot gap to get into my garage but you’re the expert.

    WillH
    Full Member

    Why not just level the floor locally, to create a little plinth for the sink and mashing machine to sit on? Knock together some shuttering and fill with concrete. You’ll be creating a ‘wedge’ of concrete, and with a washing machine vibrating away on top it may attempt to travel down the slope. To counter this I’d drill two or three holes in the floor, along the width of where the plinth is going to go, and stick some short lengths (100mm) of rebar in. Say 50mm deep holes, with 50mm rebar sticking out. When you pour the concrete the rebar will be covered, and these pegs will anchor the plinth and stop it going anywhere.

    Like this naff-tastic Word-art technical drawing:
    [/url]Plinth by W Hyde, on Flickr[/img]

    JoeG
    Free Member

    Pook – Member

    I don’t notice as I have one leg shorter than the other.

    😆

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    Pook – Member
    Ok. I’ll level the floor. I’ll have a foot gap to get into my garage but you’re the expert.

    I think we have those covered in the building side of things


    As a short term on the plinth to make everything from a level base sounds like the best idea, just make sure you pay extra for the self levelling concrete

    ghostlymachine
    Free Member

    A 13 degree hill?

    I live on a steep hill and the floor is, um, level…….

    kayak23
    Full Member

    Why not just batten and plasterboard the wall out at the top so it’s 90 degrees to the existing floor?
    Problem solved.
    😉

    joshvegas
    Free Member

    Like this naff-tastic Word-art technical drawing

    Perspective is a bit off but nice attention to detail with the hidden line.

    8/10

    If only you’d done the original drawings.

Viewing 28 posts - 1 through 28 (of 28 total)

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