Basically a mate has some fox 36 talas 2004 or 2005 i think. They have been sat around for a while so i thought i’d make an offer but to be honest i’ve got no idea what sort of value they’d be?
How much do you think they’d be worth?

depends on condition, minty ones from 2007 – 2009 seem to still fetch up to £250, 2009 onwards can get over £300.

remember the first ones (brown 2005 era) are 150mm travel instead of 160mm and have the older more-stictiontastic Talas unit in them so generally are a bit cheaper, I’ve seen them as low as £150 in working condition and less with problems.

pinch bolt lowers are prone to cracks round the clamps so triple check as new lowers are not cheap.

so after all that I think what I’ve basically said is ‘it depends…’

sorry

That still helps though.
I’ll just give them a once over to check condition etc…

Cheers

I paid £100 (with fresh seals) for some 2005 36s on here.

Still work flawlessly – about to be resprayed, and sent off to Loco…

Looking back, I think I was incredibly lucky!

🙂 nice one. £100 that sounds good…. they’re going to go onto a winter hardtail. Overkill 😀

if you can get them for £100 then bite his hand off!

The 2005s can be a bit sticky, but get them moving and make sure they’re well lubed and they’re not too bad.

There’s an easy mod to remove the IFP from the TALAS chamber too which reduces the sticking slightly but more importantly makes the main air chamber a bit bigger and (from my experience at least) helps with getting sensible sag, full travel and not blowing through the middle quite so quickly either, but you do have to up the PSI a smidge.

I’d have said £150 if in good nick functionally.

Up to £200 if cosmetically good too.

There’s an easy mod to remove the IFP from the TALAS chamber too which reduces the sticking slightly but more importantly makes the main air chamber a bit bigger and (from my experience at least) helps with getting sensible sag, full travel and not blowing through the middle quite so quickly either, but you do have to up the PSI a smidge.

Have you any details of how this is done and if the travel adjust still works?

I’m interested in that mod too – is it for the 2005 36s?

The travel adjust should still work (it does on mine) cos the TALAS gubbins is down the bottom of the TALAS cart.

I’ve only done this on the MK1 TALAS because my later MK2’s don’t seem to suffer with the same problem as much, I think they fiddled with the internals quite bit, (and again further on the latest ones)

It’s dead easy to do and takes all of about 15mins. I should have taken photos when I did it but didn’t think about it at the time so steps below from memory…

EDIT – found a pic from somewhere else which shows the fork taken apart.

1. Remove the Schraeder valve cap and let the air out of the fork

2. Use a socket (forget which size) to remove the locknut on the valve body that keeps the blue TALAS dial attached

3. Carefullt remove the blue TALAS dial, and make sure you don;t lsoe the ball bearing and spring that keeps it indexed!

4. You should now be looking at a mostly silver top cap with a schraeder valve in the middle and a small red anodized screw to the side.

5. Remove the little red screw. It is the cover for the IFP charging port.

6. At this point you will either need the Fox IFP charging tool or a thin football needle. If using the fox tool then just screw it in carefully and release the IFP air. If using the football needle then be very careful as you slide it into the IFP port, there’s normally about 150PSI in there by default so you don’t want the needle to fire back out at you!

7. Once the IFP air has been release (cycle the fork a few times to empty it completely) you can use a big ‘ol socket to unscrew the silver top cap.

8. Once the top cap is free you can slide it and the top half of the spring chamber out. It can sometimes be a little reluctant to come, just make sure you pull it straight cos there is a long thin rod running down the middle (to adjust the TALAS bit at the bottom) and you don’t want to bend it.

9. Once the top half of the unit is removed you should see the black IFP which slides up and down on the dark grey anodised shaft under the silver top cap. This si the part we are going to remove.

10. There is a small circlip at the end of the shaft, if you remove this you will be able to slide the black IFP (and a small rubber bumper I think) off bottom of the shaft. Put the IFP, rubber and circlip somewhere safe in case you want to replace or sell on in future 🙂

11. Re-assemble in reverse order, making sure when you replace the top half of the unit that the long adjuster rod slots into the hole in the cart at the bottom of the leg (shine a torch in and you’ll see it), then screw and tighten the silver top cap back down.

12. Since you have remove the IFP you do not need to charge it, just replace the red anodised screw and re-fit the TALAS adjuster (with ball bearing and spring!) and locknut.

13. Re-inflate the fork and go ride!

You might find you need to up the PSI slightly, but you should find it easier to get proper sag without the horrible blowing through the travel feeling that they normally suffer from. I also get full travel now whereas I never used to before.

They do feel a bit different after the mod so make sure you take the time to ride and play to get them set right. Its easy to replace the IFP if you don’t get on with them, but it can be a bugger to charge the IFP without the proper tool if you decide to refit the IFP.

hope that makes sense! gimme a shout if not.

Matt

DISCLAIMER – I am quite happy fettling my own forks and know enough about them to understand what effect mods will have, *I* prefer the way they ride without the IFP, and I believe the later TALAS’s don’t have an IFP at all so make of that what you will… as always your results may vary and don’t blame me if you cock up!

Thanks for these instructions, I have just done this mod, really easy and in my opinion makes the forks so much better, wish I had done this ages ago. Why they had even put this in in the first place I don’t know. I only upped the pressure by about 5psi for it to feel really plush and the small bump sensitivity is greatly improved. Happy bunny as I don’t have the money to buy any new forks and this mod has got them to where I wanted them. Thanks 🙂

Anone suffer from auto-adjust on these ? I seem to find mine wind down the travel from time to time.

Good mod. I may give it a go.

jambalaya – a guest earlier this season had some problems with the travel dropping down.

Advice from Fox (in France) was that there was likely to be too much oil in the Talas leg and that this leg should be assembled virtually dry. The Talas system relies on some tiny, tiny holes (<1mm), so too much oil (especially dirty oil) clogs them very easily.