hora – Member
How many times in a ride do you need to drop your saddle?

i.e how many descents are there that warrant a saddle dropped?

Say 3 max. Its alot of money and faff/clutter. I had a dropper, I was constantly bloody adjusting the thing. In the end I figured out how to drop a saddle without even stopping.

It’s not always descents sometimes it’s other tech riding and the answer is quite a lot. I ride for longer without stopping now and don’t end up with it in the wrong place.

GaryLake – Member
Yeah but is that “press the lever and hover down a little bit so that it doesn’t go all the way down” interim?

Yep it’s fine as it is a variable down a bit 🙂 more suited to what ever comes up.

Still do want a Thomson dropper (with an under the saddle lever)

Honestly try a lever actuated one and a remote one. There is no way I would get another lever under the saddle post again. It’s a step in the right direction and better than a QR but nowhere near as good as a remote post.

I went from a standard post too a dropper (Reverb) on my 456 and the difference is amazing. I used to ride with the post 1-2″ above the lowest point my reverb sits at so I could pedal comfortably while sitting, standingand move about well while riding. Since getting the reverb ive found ive not used it too much and do pedal with the saddle at full height unless im stood on the front to get up hill with good tracking. I cant imagine riding without it now on my hardtail. I was going to wait it out for a thomson but I got a great deal on the reverb.

Personally I think if your riding a dh type bike with a dropper something under the saddle is safer unless your using cables to adjust. You dont want to catch the hose and have to ride the rest of the day/track with a post 5″ too high!

4″

It also means less upper section on show when at full extension over the likes of a 5″ dropper.. when,lets face it, they still haven’t been perfected so anything that sticks out 20% less than the other model has got to be a step in the right direction towards it lasting a little longer.

“I thought the KS I got was convertible but it’s not”
Which model? The i950 is, I was sure the i900 is? Or have you an i850 or i7

“how many descents are there that warrant a saddle dropped?
Say 3 max.”
Maybe on a medium length ride in the peak that I knew
I find a dropper useful when I don’t know whats coming, ie whether or not it’ll be worth dropping it or not
Trails where the ups are worthwhile a proper pedalling position, and the downs (especially ridden blind) it will help to get more out of with a down saddle (ie drops/jumps/TTFs faster). As can be found in sections of trail centres

“In the end I figured out how to drop a saddle without even stopping”
I did get pretty good at this, it certainly put off buying a dropper for a bit making it hgarder to justify

“I also usually get to the top first or second any way giving me time to drop the necessary 1″ of post to then go and ride what I want”
Its alright for some, but waht about all the fat biffers out there? ..

“More would be better but 5″ drop reverb is definately a good start”
Why I got a 150mm drop i950
the remote kit being a rip off* imo and the the 430/435mm post length could be problematic for many frames
*I had access to a scrap i900r to rob the remote/actuation levers from

hora – Member

They are too easy to over faff over and complicate a ride.

I’m afraid this is just mad.

Once it becomes second nature it works well. riding with 2 shifters,a fork remote and a post remote on the opposite side.. I won’t argue with Hora! I have been in a bit of a muddle at the start when trying to shift gear,get the post to where I need it etc..

I was Stravabagging at the time and failed miserably ;O)

Agree with what hob nob says above, except need to change one word.

Yes I ‘could’ ride most of the stuff with it all the way up down, but it’s not as fun, or as fast.

Personally, without mine I’d have to set my saddle permanently a fair bit lower.
So to me, it’s less of a “dropper post” and more “riser post” to allow me to sit down comfortably for more of the pedally bits.

If I was getting one now, I’d go for 5″ with a remote.

I have the 950l to make it a remote the head needs changing. Not worth the cost. Was hoping it would fail so I could buy a new one.

I’ve got 4 and 5in droppers, with and without remote. I’d say 5in with remote is def worth paying for.

I use mine constantly on every ride, not just on the steeps but anything rough, techy or jumpy – it just gives you more room to move around and get your weight in the right place. I find it especially handy when riding flats because you’re moving your feet about on the pedals more and, without a dropper, saddle height is always a compromise IMHO.

I almost never used to drop my saddle in the bad old days.

4″ Gravity Dropper Turbo here, with remote. Feels good to me, but I might’ve gone for 5″ if I had to buy again. I’d probably want to try it first though.

While I do see the point with multiple positions, I’m quite happy with only two as, knowing me, I’d just ruin every ride by pondering which position to use for each section of the trail. Now it’s quite simple – descents: dropped, everything else: raised.