Motor valve in our airing cupboard has failed. The motor part. However the valve itself is quite rough which I think has been putting strain on the motor for years – the gears have always slipped, which is noisy – and I think the valve body should probably be replaced as well.

I can fix it myself for £50 or so, but how much would a plumber cost? Assuming we could find one quickly that is.

couple of hundred for something like that I would think

Probably looking at £120 minimum plus parts depending where you live. That’s what my plumber charged for connecting a gas job up which took a couple of hours, he normally charges £200 a day (expensive for West yorks but he’s very good and reliable).

Finding a good one quickly, especially at this time of year, will be the tricky bit.

Couple of hours work, but you’ll probably have a wait before a plumber will turn out for it. Probably quicker to just get on with it if you are competent to drain down the system and swap a new one in.

Yeah I reckon I can do it – £67 for the valve and actuator.

I reckon if I release the pressure then crack the threads and wait for any extra water to drain into a bucket I can do it without draining the lot – since the valve is very near the top of the system.

you can usually just change the top of the valve without any draining its usually just the motor that goes not the mechanical part of the valve

I have not been having a great experience trying to find a plumber who will 1. turn up, 2. then actually send a quote 3. not ask for £100 an hour (yes that’s you SSE taking the piss)

Do it yourself.

@TJ yes, but we’ve had problems with this particular one, the gears keep skipping which knackers the gears making it noisy. The valve itself is really stiff, so I think I’ll change it.

Fill loop also leaks terribly when it’s being used – so I should probably fix that too. Assuming they are all the same…?

you can usually just change the top of the valve without any draining its usually just the motor that goes not the mechanical part of the valve

In this case there is roughness in the valve, so it might get him through winter but it’s possible it will fail quickly.

Having said that, I’d be tempted to take off the housing, waggle the valve head a bit to free it up, then stick a cheapy replacement synchronous motor on there to ensure I had heating by the end of this week, when it is going to get quite a bit colder and stay that way for a while.

But then, I am a certified bodger.

he normally charges £200 a day (expensive for West yorks but he’s very good and reliable).

This only equates to £46k gross per year, for a time served, registered and self employed person. If you work on 230 working days per year. That obviously doesn’t allow time for preparing quotes and your paperwork. Allow 1 day per fortnight for that and it becomes £41k gross.

Then you need a van, tools, insurance etc. and that £200 per day isn’t very much at all.

I’ve replaced the motor before, and it was quite hard to find the actuator on its own, and it was only about a tenner or so cheaper than the whole thing. Since then though I’ve replaced a rad and extended the pipes at the bottom of the system so I’m more confident dealing with water pressure. And I’m sick of the noise caused by the stiff valve.

And I’m sick of the noise caused by the stiff valve.

Try freeing it up first, though.

I can pick up a generic motor for my valves for about 12-13 quid.

I have tried that. Silicone lube helped for a while.

How would I get a generic motor to fit? Or you mean disassembling the valve (which I’ve done before to try and stop the noise) and replacing motor?

Is it a Honeywell actuator? Silver metal cover?
If so, you can get the complete top replacement. (if newer than 1985)
Don’t go for the cheaper alternative, i’ve found the quality to be poor, and they suffer more from the “jumping” than the better ones.
Honeywell powerhead
Or if you are going or the full replacement, still try to get the full Honeywell unit.

No, Sunvic.

There are two in the cupboard, and the one is silky smooth, silent and has never jumped or made a noise in 11 years of living there. So I’m replacing the valve body too on the noisy one.

Or you mean disassembling the valve (which I’ve done before to try and stop the noise) and replacing motor?

Yes, take the cover off, and just take off/replace the motor.

I’ve not found the generics to be any worse than the official Honeywell stuff.

Moot point really, if you’ve tried/failed to free up the valve, then you need to swap it. But I’d be getting on with it or you’ll be huddled around the STW-issue logburner by Friday night.

you can usually just change the top of the valve without any draining its usually just the motor that goes not the mechanical part of the valve

A new motor is about £13 from Screwfix. I’ve just reconditioned the last valve I swapped out from the system, so I now have a spare. It did quite well, lasted 17 years before giving up…

I’m available at a reasonable fee

I had a plumber out yesterday to fix a leaking toilet. Contact by text, arranged an appt – 7 day wait. Turned up 15 min early on arranged time & date. 2 hrs work, also fixed the slow fill/blocked up valve. £60 cash. He may well get the job to refit my bathroom from the chat we had too.

Nice find martin/footflaps.

Problem is I’m not home 🙁 Planning to be home tomorrow night, clicked on the parts, should be able to collect tomorrow.

Your first born and a night with your missus.

Nice find martin/footflaps.

Problem is I’m not home Planning to be home tomorrow night, clicked on the parts, should be able to collect tomorrow.

You will also need two of these…

I can post you a handful if you message me your address, I bought 100 off Ebay…

£60 cash. 

Awaits tax dodging thief comments…

You will also need two of these…

Well as it happens, the connector that was originally on there got water dripped on it and fried itself, so I replaced that with a screw terminal connector. So I should be fine, thanks though 🙂