Just wondering how much better a Rockshox monarch plus shock would be over a standard monarch ?

My bike currently has a monarch rt and feels fine to be honest but you can also get the plus version for my bike.

Is it much of an upgrade or not worth it ??

AFAIK the benefits are just for longer descents – higher volume of oil stays cooler for longer, therefore ensuring the damper performs consistently.

Ok cheers.

As your standard shock feels “fine” why would you want to change it.
You’d be better off spending the money on riding somewhere a bit more challenging than trying to follow a fashion.

SSS…… It was just a question mate.

It was also just an answer. “Mate”
Please feel free to piss money up the wall though…

I think whether its worth it depends on where and how you ride, if you ride fast rocky stuff aggressively then its worth it, if you live somewhere a bit less extreme or ride a bit more bimbly then doubt you’ll feel the benefit.

SSS who said anything about pissing money up the wall Mate.

How do you know I don’t find where I currently ride challenging enough ?

Keep your knickers on pal.

Cheers Akira

It was also just an answer. “Mate”

Mine’s the kashima one km79. 😛
Renton.
I have no dought that you’d find riding to the paper shop challenging.
But if your shock feels fine doing that why would you want to change it…
Just saying you might be better off riding your bike than constantly changing it without getting to know what you really like or need.

Like I said though feel free to do what ever you want.

Km79

Kashima piggy back shock ?

Have you had a none piggyback to compare it to ?

Yep.
The Float is much lighter than the X2 for trips to the offy/chip shop. 😉

The plus has better damping than the RT unit.

What are you not liking about your current shock?

All the pros have the plus so it’s bound to make you faster and more attractive to the opposite sex.

I think you should buy one so in a few months when you sell it, one of us can benefit from your hard earned cash. 🙂

On a serious note, my advice would be if you like this bike and it’s a keeper? Send it off for a service and a personal tune or hire a shock wiz and mess about with some bands.

Aa a pretty average rider I have never ever thought twice about my suspension settings. I set the sag, everything else gets stuck in the middle setting and left there for duration of ownership.

Given that most of us ride on bikes far more cabale than we are, does the average rider really notice the difference in rebound and compression settings, or benefit from the quality of shock.

I own or have owned bikes with a wide varying quality of shocks and forks, and they all feel very very similar to me. (other than the fork legs, I notice that as I’m a fat turd)

Given that most of us ride on bikes far more cabale than we are, does the average rider really notice the difference in rebound and compression settings, or benefit from the quality of shock.

yes

Given that most of us ride on bikes far more cabale than we are, does the average rider really notice the difference in rebound and compression settings, or benefit from the quality of shock.

Yes!!!!

I stand corected!

Maybe its my shock settings that are holding me back…or at least now I have another excuse!

Perhaps my definition of ‘average’ however is different than yours!

for context my much faster mate usually comes bottom 3rd in the enduro events he does..so hes probably the very definition of ‘average’..I may downgrade my standard to ‘shit’*

Given that most of us ride on bikes far more cabale than we are, does the average rider really notice the difference in rebound and compression settings, or benefit from the quality of shock.

It doesn’t make a difference how fast you are. Bad suspension settings might make you slower, but it will feel worse. Just because we aren’t top pros doesn’t mean we want our bike to feel rubbish. I’m a crap guitarist, but an expensive guitar still feels nicer to play than a cheap one – the action is better for a start. It still won’t sound good, but I’ll enjoy playing it more. Likewise I may not be a polar explorer, but I still feel better in decent outdoor kit even if I am just walking up Snowdon in the rain.

So yes, it does matter. Not in terms of out and out performance, but in terms of fun and niceness. Which is why we like nice bikes after all isn’t it?

a lot of the time poor rebound/air pressure can sort a lot of issues out. Getting the shock tuned helps massively but the RT is a fairly simple shock so not a huge amount can be done to it.

So with my current rt I have this issue where I need a rebound setting between two. One feels to fast the other to slow.

It has a piggyback so is instantly 30% cooler/faster!

Stevelol – Member
It has a piggyback so is instantly 30% cooler/faster!

15% imo, you need a coil piggyback to achieve max sexiness

So with my current rt I have this issue where I need a rebound setting between two. One feels to fast the other to slow.

add a little or remove a little air pressure. what size is the shock?

190×51

fit a debonair air can and see the difference that makes.

The shock is all black ? Does that make it a debonair ?

no, having a debonair air can makes it debonair. should say on it as well. what bike is it (year) might have one already.

Mine’s the kashima one

Please feel free to piss money up the wall though…

You’d be better off spending the money on riding somewhere a bit more challenging than trying to follow a fashion.

You couldn’t make this shit up. 😆

2017 Codeine 29

says RT3 debonair on the site

Really – are we still throwing bile at Kashima? How very 2010 of us.

Anyway as others have said piggy-backs are there for more oil volume (like ‘metric’ shocks). Which not only helps on really long descents when it could get hot (think massive Alpine descents not just 4 min runs at BPW for your average muggle rider). But the extra volume also allows for more control and more consistent damping even without heat issues.

It’s hardly night and day though and for riders who simply set rebound and compression (if they have it) in the middle of the dial because that’s probably average then it would be utterly wasted it’s so subtle.

I was always a the guy who left things in the middle because I’m terrible at ‘feel’ I just ride as fast as I can/want, I don’t perceive suspension well, but when I spend the time to get it dialed in I just go faster without trying, more than just speed it gives more flow on trials as there a lot less ‘boring bits’ as you’re carrying more speed.

Remember rebound isn’t about ‘average’ it’s about controlling the shock pressure / Spring, if you’re bob on 12.5 stone and run 20% the middle might be right – but probably not, if you’re anything out of the average it’s probably just wrong.

not just big alpine descents, theres plenty we do in the lakes where the lads with non piggy-backs have hot shocks at the bottom

So with my current rt I have this issue where I need a rebound setting between two. One feels to fast the other to slow

Poah said it above, add or subtract some air. Like 5psi.

You need more rebound damping with a high spring rate, and less with a lower spring rate, to stop the pogo-effect.

Although it does feel odd that you’re between two settings. Usually, there’s a range that feels comfortable.

There could be other factors too. Like tyre choice, rubber durometer, tyre pressures, weight distribution, your take off or landing…

Question: What makes you feel like you’re between two settings for rebound?

Rickon.

I run quite a lot of rebound, I think there are 12 clicks…. I run it two clicks from full rebound as I feel this is just about the best but still slightly firm.

If I click it one more click to full rebound the rear end gets quite hard but if I click it one click the other way there seems to be a massive change and the bike becomes quite bouncy and uncontrolled if that makes sense.