After a spectacular ‘Superman’ style exit from the bike over a jump last night I have a fairly good dish in the back wheel (I seem to remember landing on it which explains a lot!)
I’ve never attempted to true a wheel before but have an old MBR with a guide in somewhere…
Is it doable as a complete noob? If I do attempt it will I die?
The hub is a pro2 laced to a WTB speedisc rim (the stock wheel from a 2007 P7)
Thanks in advance.

Depending upon how bad it is, are you sure that it can be trued?

That aside, you should’t really need much more than a spoke key – if you leave the wheel in the frame (assuming your frame has a symetrical back end) you can use use either the seat- or chain-stays as reference points.

If you can do it that way, then you’ll need a proper truing stand and possibly a dish tool as well.

It isn’t that difficult to do, you’ve just got to be slow and steady about it. The temptation is to loosen (or tighten) spokes a lot at a time, but eve 1/4 turn on each spoke can make a difference.

tie a couple of cable ties to your stantions…

spoke key, and off you go… anti clockwise to pull the rim out, clockwise in…..i think? thats looking down at the rim from the hub…i think…lol

i got it hopelessly wrong at first and had my tyre touching the fork leg,….i was very satisfied when i got it back true, take your time….

check youtube…

Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty.

Wheel truing can be frustrating, but it’s a good skill to learn. The zip tie to the seatstays approach works well, as does taping a couple of chalks to mark the rim where it’s out of alignment. I’ve had excellent results on a long, summer evening with a glass of Adnams being slowly sipped but have had horrendous results when in a hurry and emptying a bottle of Merlot.

Don’t force it, don’t be tempted to over-tighten (use the other wheel as a gauge for spoke tension) and make sure you have the best spoke key you can find.

In my case, I swear by these.

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/buddy/spokey-spoke-key-red-euro-nipples-ec012165

Red for “standard” issue nipples (DT Swiss etc) and yellow for Shimano.

Good luck!

Aye, spoke key and zipties.
I’ve never touched wheels but had a buckled one and no way to get it to the LBS so I gave it a go. Really easy. Just take your time. I trued mine and it’s take 2 months of abuse since. Very satisfying.
Fancy building a wheel from scratch now.

Time, patience, and a bit of memory should do the trick. The memory comes in handy if you make a bollocks of it and need to ‘go back’.

It takes more time and concentration than you think to get a wheel that satisfies the four prerequisites of a perfect wheel:

Lateral true (side to side wobble at rim is gone)
Radial true (is it round?)
Dish (is it in the middle of the bike when laterally true?)
Correctly and evenly tensioned (are all the spokes tight, but not too tight, and of roughly the same tension?)

A few tips if you are only concerned with lateral true, dishing and tensioning:

Leave the tyre on, you can then draw a chalk line on the sidewall of the tyre to mark bends that you want to true out. Don’t use the tyre as a guide, though, use zip ties around the frame on either side of the rim. You can’t sort radial true with the tyre on, though.

Look down on the spoke you are turning ‘through’ the tyre, this way, it has the appearance of tightening the ‘right way’. This might seem Irish to some people, but it actually works for me!

Dribble a small drop of chain lube down any spokes into the nipple threads if they seem stuck, rounded off spoke nipples are a nightmare.

Use the tightest fitting spoke key you can to avoid rounding.

Every so often, rest the wheel on its axle on a block of wood and push down gently on the rim working your way around a quarter turn, then flip the wheel and do it again. You should hear ‘tings’ as the spokes seat against each other and unwind ever so slightly.

Can’t think of much else. Time and patience is the key.