Never tried it before and am going to have a go today.

I know I need the fluid, a clear tube and the right size spanner for the bleed nipple. Anything else? Any tips? What could possibly go wrong?

They are hope minis – if that makes a difference

Well I’d try to explain but unfortunately I’m quite poor at that.This will do a better job.

Cheers! The difference is pronounced if your brakes really need a bleeding but it’s not the type of procedure one carries out just for the sake of doing so regularly (like lubing the chain, which I do before pretty much every ride).

Taken off another forum

To bleed a hope brake:[u]

Tools required:

8mm ring spanner
4mm allen key for lever
2mm (I think) allen key for top cap bolts
3mm allen key
Plastic tubing
An old bottle
Some tape
DOT 5.1 fluid
Copper grease
A rag
Dust sheet /big rag

What to do:

*Put the bike in a convenient place to work on it, ie bike stand or somewhere it’s not going to get knocked.

*Remove the wheel and pads from the calliper to prevent contamination from leaks. Push pistons ‘home’ into calliper using tyre lever or a spanner

*Put dust sheet / rag under the bike where your working to catch drips

*Set up brake lever so the top of the reservoir is flat to prevent spillage.

*Put ring spanner over bleed nipple, followed by plastic tube. Feed tube into the old bottle, and tape the bottle to fork/frame to it doesn’t get knocked over

*Now, remove top cam and diaphragm from the lever.

*Undo the bleed nipple ¼ of a full turn (anticlockwise) and squeeze the lever slowly all the way to the bars.

*Close the bleed nipple.

*Let the lever return to normal position. – note how the fluid level decreases during this step.

*Repeat this open-pull-close-release procedure until all fluid is replaced. Remember to top up the reservoir periodically. If you see the reservoir empty, you will have introduced air into the system – keep going and don’t let it get that low again!

*Watch the tube on the bleed nipple for a colour change (showing you when the new fluid has flushed the system) and for bubbles. Keep going until no more bubbles are seen. It is worth tapping the lever and calliper periodically (sharply with a spanner or similar) to free trapped air.

*Once you are satisfied, close the bleed nipple and top up the fluid reservoir to the brim.

*Now get the rubber diaphragm (may be stuck under top cap) and roll it on from one side so as to minimise air trapped beneath it (if you just plonck it on top, there will be trapped air which may work its way into the system when bike is upside down). Keep the rag directly under the lever at this point, its can be messy with overflowing fluid.

*Then replace top cap, and wipe down lever.

*Remove bleed equipment from the calliper, make sure there is no fluid present that may contaminate pads or disk.

*Wash hands before reinstalling pads/disk – your fingers will be covered in fluid!

*Now dab copper grease on the back of the pads (helps reduce noise and seizing pistons) and reinstall them, followed by the wheel.

*Pump the lever to re-centre the pads.

*Ride

One or two slightly different ways but this should get the job done

1. Remove wheel & pads
2. Insert packing into pad space to keep pistons from popping out (2p pieces?)
3. Tape a small jam jar close to the calliper & attach the hose to the bleed nipple & route into jar
4. Top up fluid reservoir if necessary
5. Pull & hold brake lever & then open bleed nipple ¼ turn
6. Close nipple & then release lever
7. Repeat steps 5&6 until all air is purged
8. Don’t forget to top up the fluid reservoir every 4 or 5 pumps & when you’ve finished
9. Re-assemble everything
10. Go riding

Thanks guys. All sorted, much easier than I thought.