Assuming single finger braking. When they bite, how close are the levers to the bar?

I have mine set for max finger power, but it was suggested to me today to have them bite much closer to the bar. The idea is that involuntary comfort tugs on the lever do nothing.

Anyone do this? Does it work for you

Mine bite pretty close to the bar, feel far more in control.
The further away they are the more pain your fingers/hands will be in on long (eg. Alpine) descents….

I’ve read or made up that your squeeze is at its strongest when the first/biggest joint on your finger is at right angles, thankfully my non adjustable levers bite around there.

Works for me.

Just learn to control your comfort tugs (or you’ll go blind). All you’ll do is adapt to your new braking point in a nanosecond and you won’t be any different, put the bite point where it’s comfy and gives you most power and deal with the panic effects as the separate issue that they are.

Have my SLX levers parallel to the bars, I like a bit of movement before they bite though.

You are right about comfort tugs 🙂 I did it a bit yesterday as it was tricky riding: steep wet and loose everywhere, just when you must not do it!

Mine are Hope tech and about 20mm from the grip.

when the first/biggest joint on your finger is at right angles

I find this the most comfortable and powerful too. So mine are about mid way on their adjustment.

SOAP – Member
Mine are Hope tech and about 20mm from the grip.

Same here

Hope tech here too, moved the bite point right close, made braking to easy now it requires no thought it just happens.

I’m odd. I like mine to bite as far from the bars as possible, I like them as sharp and powerful as possible too. I find if they come too close to the bars the lever fouls my knuckle.
I like car brakes the same: i.e. ‘Breath on the pedal and it stops’ levels of bite 🙂

EDIT
Just checked, my front lever on my favourite brakes (Magura Louise Carbons) moves about 10mm before it starts to bite, and by 20mm I’d be over the bars!
Pads are a bit worn after a few crappy rides too. New ones will probably tighten that up some I imagine. Lovely.

@pp move your lever further away from grips (towards stem) for single finger braking as the lever doesn’t foul your knuckles then.
bite point set mid way end point very close to bars…

My shimano’s are wound right in. To the extent they don’t actually lock up on the road if I put my weight right back!

Reasoning is it stops arm pump almost completely and offers more control.

I did it after borrowing one of the guides on holliday’s downhill bikes, first it’s scary thinking there’s no brakes at all, then after that I was sold as your grip on the bar doesn’t change between braking and not.

@PeterPoddy, if the lever is fouling your knuckles, you could try moving the levers nearer to the stem – this has definitely helped me, as it makes one finger braking more natural and relieves the aching on long descents.

Spoon: this is pretty much what i was told. I ll give it a go tomorrow. If you don’t hear, I’m in A&E!

I have mine bite very close to the bar I find with one finger braking and it being so close to the bar it makes me feel more in control and I get a lot less arm pump. It has also made me quicker because I can grab hand fills of brake if I’m hitting a corner too fast and not lose too much speed

@PeterPoddy, if the lever is fouling your knuckles, you could try moving the levers nearer to the stem – this has definitely helped me,

Yeah. I could. But I like ’em as they are: Vicious power at the slightest touch! 🙂 Plus I sometimes brake with my middle finger…..

They’re not that close to the grip really

Untitled by PeterPoddy, on Flickr

I’ve been told that it’s important to have a bit of initial free travel in the brake lever to allow for fluid expansion from the heat transferred through the brake pads under hard or sustained braking?

I’ve been told that it’s important to have a bit of initial free travel in the brake lever to allow for fluid expansion from the heat transferred through the brake pads under hard or sustained braking?

That’s drivel. The initial travel is purely mechanical not hydraulic. Expansion is taken care of by the rubber ‘bellows’ seal under the reservoir cap. That’s what it’s for. Older closed systems used to be affected adverselt by expansion (e.g. Hope Mini, Giant MPH) but none of the modern open systems are to any degree that matters 🙂

They’re not that close to the grip really

Fair enough, personal preference is important, although your levers do seem a bit longer than mine.

For me I tend to have them set very close and they all but touch the grip when I use them
As somwhere above they only just about lock the wheel on Tarmac but work just perfect off road