I’m trying to take it apart for a bearing change (and probably pawls as well)

This is the old sort with the 5 arm spider and the false dropout for the No2 caliper (when the frame doesn’t have disc mounts)

Got the spider off easily enough but the rest is putting up a fight as there’s nothing obvious to prise off first.

Hopefully its just something siezed so where do I start?

Support the hub shell and tap the axle through, it’ll all slide off the axle as you do it.

Hmmmm ….. I’ve given it a bit more than a tap.

Is it so different from the XC hubs which look easy enough to take apart?

Exactly the same for most, some early ones had 2 circlips in the freehub body, and,this may be your problem- the end caps were held on by grub screws.

circlip?

The only circlips are in the freehub body, one in the normal XC position, and the other (2 circlip model) behind the outer bearing. They do sometimes take a fair clout to shift them.
You are supporting the shell when you hit the axle, aren’t you? Without doing this it can be a difficult job.

No sign of grub screws. I’ve laid the wheel horizontal and squirted in some TF2 to soak overnight. Looks a bit brown already so maybe a corrosion seizure.

I’m supporting the shell in a plastic jaw vice and hitting from the drive side.

I’m still running the same Ti-glide with the spider mounted disc and did a bearing change last week. I’m guessing you’ve taken the freehub body off first, so it is just tapping the axle through as you describe. There are no grub screws.
Bigger hammer??

Rob