Hi all,
I have a Hope Pro II rear hub with standard QR and have been offered a 10mm rear axle upgrade with DT Swiss RWS skewer for not a lot of money, but am wondering whether or not it is worth doing?

I am not a particularly hardcore rider and have certainly never felt any real flex in the rear end, but for the relatively small amount of money, if it will make any improvement I'll give it a go!

The bike is a Maverick ML7/5

Any feedback?

Cheers

Chris

it made a noticable improvement to my knoa

but it was a bit flexy in part due to the multiple linkages

certainly worth it if you have a similar frame and are a bit ahem heavier than average

i got front 9mm and rear 10mm when i got my new wheels . i couldnt notice any difference on the back of the turner but the forks certainly stiffened up on the front. so id guess it depends on what its going on mate

I got a RWS skewer for my normal QR front wheel and it noticably stiffened my Rebas, so I can only imagine it would do the same on the rear.

i only really noticed flex before when i was landing the back wheel at a funny angle if that makes sense

Its not that noticable when you put it on, could only properly tell on a steep tarmac climb, but use it a while, and use a normal QR wheel and the extra flex is very noticable.
I suppose it makes most difference to *Powerhouse* riders, such as myself.

The Maverick doesn't have any linkages in the rear end at all so I am not convinced it is particularly flexy, plus I am not exactly a powerhouse!! Will stick a post on the Maverick MTBR forum and see if anyone has tried it!

Cheers

Is it not the case that rear hubs are all either 10mm or 12mm in diameter? You can switch to a 'bolt-up' 10mm rear hub, which has the benefit of offering a heavier more robust axle (as it takes two bolts from either side rather than a through the hub skewer, thus allowing more material to be added) and of course you can have 12mm through axles for either 135mm or 150mm rear ends.

The idea behind 12mm through axles is strength and stiffness but in reality, the majority of us would struggle to notice the difference. I went from a DH bike with 135mmx10mm rear to one with a 150mmx12mm rear and I can't say it's any stiffer.

switched to bolt in on a prophet with 717 rims no noticable difference.Built some 819 rims that made a subtle but noticable difference through rock gardens and ruts.

I did it to stop my rear from omving in the droputs I think d.t. upgrading to 203 rotors and made big difference – not squeak now!

Is it not the case that rear hubs are all either 10mm or 12mm in diameter?

There are many standards now GT1972.

QR, which has 10mm hub axle and 5mm QR to hold the wheel in.
Bolted, which uses 10mm hub axle and allen bolts that thread in the end to hold the wheel in.
10mm 'bolt-up', which uses 10mm bolts into the hub or the hub axle extends past the dropouts and you use nuts threaded onto it.
10mm bolt through, which uses a 10mm slide in axle (which can be tightened by a QR or a big nut/bolt)

all of the above work with normal dropouts.

12mm bolt through, which uses a 12mm slide in axle.

This only works on frames designed to accept 12mm axles, the axle itself is specific to the frame (tho the Maxle standard is now quite popular)

Stato – my head is spinning! I had a feeling that there was more to it than I thought.

OK so can you explain the difference between the 'bolted' which uses 10mm hub axle bolts (I am thinking the Hope 10mm bolt up hub here) and the 'bolt-up' version where the bolts screw into the hub (I can see the difference when the axle extends beyond the drop out as this is not unlike the way Intense design their 12mm systems, both 135mm and 150mm)

gt- im no industry expert, just saying there are lots of versions of what might appear to be the same standard.

Hope 10mm bolt-up, uses 10mm bolts threaded into the hub.

Da-bomb 10mm bolt-up/on, uses longer 10mm axle (part of the hub) and nuts, still fits in normal dropouts.

10mm bolt through uses a hub with a 10mm hole through and a special 10mm axle, which can be either a bolt/nut or a QR.

12mm bolt through is different, all 12mm hubs (well, almost all) will fit any frame that uses a 12mm axle. How that tightens up depends on the frame design, the intense you mention uses a 12mm alxe (with nuts on the end) which sits in conventional looking dropouts, but bigger for the 12mm axle.

@ STATO +1