For people that have repeated, frequent, failures : how smooth are the bearings when they are new ?

I’ve seen tolerance issues with pro II rear axles which cause bearing side loading, which causes rapid bearing failure. Perhaps this is not completely uncommon ?

Science Officer it’s much easier to lift seals off using the inner seal without distorting it.

That’s for proving us right though 😀

I don’t really find it any different TBH. I use the point of a stanly blade and up it comes.

IME bearing lubrication for mtb’s is like chain lubrication. Do it frequently enough and you get significantly increased component life.

Scienceofficer – I can’t see that in the links you provide – I only see it specifically saying that they are sealed for life and should not be washed out and regreased.

Can you point me to the relevant bit of the link?

(Sorry, posted this thread when preparing Mrs PPs bike to go out and
ride. Just got back and had dinner)

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Is it possible there could be another cause?

No. Thyey’re justy rubbish bearings and I’ve had enough of them. 2 pairs and one other front and onlt one of them has had the bearings last more then a year. Utter garbage.

ould it be the way you’re cleaning it – jetwash, chemicals? or are the bearings misaligned?

No. None of those. Just rubbish bearings.

Pre fill the new bearings with grease. Kaesae is right.

You WHAT? Why, for God’s sake, should the be necessary when the bearings in Hope XCs last 4 years + and for 50p I can service XTs once a year and they last even longer? Don’t take the mickey.

‘ve analyzed thousands of bearings.

They fail for 3 reasons.

Firstly the bearing rusts internally then collapses.

Secondly the bearing fills with dirt and crap including rust and seizes.

Thirdly the bearing is of cheap quality and wares out quickly due it’s looser tolerances and cheaper materials also the build quality is inferior.

You’ve missed No4
NOT UP TO THE JOB..

Hope Pro 2 Bearings on the left, Hope XC bearings on the right, as just taken out of my toolbox 2 minutes ago:

iphone_pic by PeterPoddy, on Flickr

I’ve siad it before andf I’ll repeat it again, Pro2 bearings are just underspecced, and the hubs are a compromise. Rubbiush.

Fly that up your flagpole and see if it flaps.

Wheels for sale. £140 posted. Pro 2 hubs, DT4.2 rims SS DB spokes and in good condition, but need new bearings.

Anybody wanna put their money where their mouth is?

Oh, if I’ve got the right bearings in stock I’ll replace them for you, but I’m not buying any more 🙂

swap you for some cup an cone wheels?

My pro11 bearings last for ages. Had the wheels 3 years ish – second-hand but hardly used till I got them – thousands of miles use by me. one of five rear bearings failed, none in the front.

swap you for some cup an cone wheels?

Black 6 bolt XT hubs with black 717 or DT4.2 rims with black DB spokes?

(Which is what I should have bought her in the first pace but I was feeling flush. MISTAKE!)

In fact, I could just buy some Shimano hubs and rebuild the wheels, then sell the Pro 2 hubs for profit.

So scrub that. 🙂

I’ve used stock bearings and BETD bearings, the BETD ones lasted three weeks longer.

Hahaha! all those bearings look like cheap crap, you can’t expect those to last any more than 6 to 12 months. the dimpled effect to the seals and the lack of a lip, they’re rubbish.

You’re lucky if they cost £1.50 to £2 each, probably 10x for a tenner.

Yes the 6000 2rs and 6001 2rs are larger bearings and should last longer, but the pro 2 is a lot more diverse and a lot easier to service than the bulb, xc or big un hubs!

Run good quality bearings and they will last a while run utter Shite and they will not!

As for everyone else, including the bike shops, have any of you checked the rear ends alignment, as in the wheel mounting brackets also the disc brakes.

I’m not having a go at anyone but a misaligned rear end and brake will cause pressure to be applied unevenly.

As for removing the seals on the outer edge, if the inner edge rotates then it has the least contact and thus largest amount of space between the seal and race, it is therefore easier to insert what ever you are using to remove the seal there. Once you leverage that inner part of the seal out the rest of the seal will follow.

Since the diameter of the inner seal lip is smaller it makes sense that less force will be required to leverage it out and a such it will be easier.

That said since I value learning over everything else, I just went through and tested what you said, I found it harder to remove the seal using your technique for the above reasons stated.

Don’t use cheapo rubbish bearings. if it takes you 30 to 45 mins once a year to change them, how much will the extra hassle and time cost you over the long run.

😀

Peterpoddy, I will give you some bearings for free! , put them in see how you get on, give my bearings a go? 😉

Dude – if you have a pair for a Pro II front I would welcome the opportunity !

Hahaha! all those bearings look like cheap crap, you can’t expect those to last any more than 6 to 12 months. the dimpled effect to the seals and the lack of a lip, they’re rubbish.

Point missed. Sorry, but you have.

Got two sets of Hope Pro II’s and bearings seem fine on mine, front and rear. Had to replace the bearings on a set of wheels i bought 2nd hand, but they’ve lasted 2 years since.

do you have the proper drifts/ hub supports?

my bearings last 2-3 times longer since i bought the tools.

I can’t be arsed to read all the above, my Hope Pro III SP wheels have had one set of rear wheel bearings in 2.5 years, the wheels have had extensive use, several 24,12,8 hour races plus regular use throughout the the winters in the Bristol gloop and Welsh grit.

Seems fair to me.

I also had some Pro IIs for a couple of years that suffered similar abuse, I never had a bearing fail.