just replace pawls or will i need to replace the clicky bit inside the hub? (or even the hub body – eek)

btw – it’s a pro2

I’d start with the pawls and go from there.

They may just need a clean out and a light re-grease, though.

Have you tried just taking the freehub apart, giving it a clean and reassembling ? The pawls could be sticking.

As the others say. some pro 2s had duff springs that broke so get a set of pawls and springs, strip hub and rebuild – takes 10 mins to do

Adam as other re the pawls. If not it could be the ratchet ring and if it’s like an XC hub you’ll need to send it (whole wheel) back to Hope. Check it earlier rather than later, I killed one on the climb from the crocodile pit last year and they couldn’t save it.

Pawl springs are £2.99 for a set of 4 and most likely to be the problem. if it is well used order up the the pawls as well and give the whole lot a service. Excellent video at hopetech.

check the springs too

3 pawl springs in my Pro2 hub broke after only few months. Hope sent replacements after a phone call.

The replacements are still going strong after well over a year. I think there might have been a weaker batch perhaps.

My pro2’s get ceramic chain lube instead of grease and stay much more ‘clickety’ (the engagement seems cleaner/more positive).

And pawl springs are worth a check, I had a set go so soft the hub was almost quiet, and I wasn’t going to put up with that!

Are you 100% sure it’s not that your cassette and/or chain are knackered?

deffo not the chain & cassette. This bike was only built 5months ago & I only prolly only done 200miles on it (mostly downhill).
I did have a question mark over the mech (XT) – it seems to sit quite far back despite of being correctly mounted on the hanger. I was comparing it to another bike yesterday and my top jockey wheel sits just behind the vertical centre of the cassette when the other guys bike the jockey sat higher and just in front of the vertical centre.
this means not much chain actually on teeth/wrapped around the cassette when it’s in a high gear

PS: I dropped the free hub off & the springs seem ok. there is a little shine on the corner of each pawl tho, so have ordered a new set (£12 not £2 on CRC). also cleaned out all the old grease and replaced with some light oil. will see how that works out this afternoon :/

Spence: checked the teeth and can’t see any damage. fingers crossed it’s just pawls

Is it just me or does that mech look like it is not sitting correct.

It looks like it’s “pinged” past the “stop” which keeps it in the right position.

More like this in that the funky star shaped mech bolt should sit below the main frame to mech bolt.

To bring it forwards, wind out the b-tension screw: Instructions

B screw is already wound all the way out.

Messiah> I agree, but that is where the stop on the hanger places the stop on the mech ‘carrier’.

Looks like the mech may have been mounted the wrong side of the stop on the hanger. Worth checking anyway

fitted correctly.

BTW apologies for the dirt on the mech, but I try to spend more time riding it than washing it 😉

So I replaced the springs & pawls – no change

guess what – it was the cassette.
Look carefully and teeth on 20t and 23t are excessively worn and some are twisted.

unbelieveable <200miles through that cassette – not a good advert for PG970!
(and it’s wrecked the ally freehub)

so:
New springs & pawls – £13.
new free hub £49, plus new pg980 £45. ****, I didn’t need that!

Hope need cassettes with a ‘carrier’ on their alloy hubs – as you’ve found 🙁

Drivetrains can be a pain. I had some really bad skipping once and wasted loads of time trying to pin it down. Eventually I replaced the middle ring with a cheap Deore jobbie and all was OK again. Even bike shops I went into could see no appreciable wear and couldn’t understand why it would be skipping, but at least a Deore chainring is relatively cheap. It’s all very annoying.