Morning all!

Has anyone seen any reviews yet of the new Hope wheel sets? I’m wondering if they’d be a decent alternative to Grails on Pro4’s or Dt Swiss 350s…

http://www.hopetech.com/product/hope-20five-pro-4/

c.

They seem heavy, No?

Almost 1.85kg. Crests on Kings were 1.55kg.

I’m about to do Nextie Carbon (22mm internal with a max pressure of 80psi, 370g) on Kings and am hoping for sub 1.5kg.

@Daffy it’s not dissimilar to weights I’ve seen quoted for the Grail/Pro4 combo elsewhere and I’d rather go for something solid than super lightweight.

There’s a good chance I’ll be doing some light touring/bikepacking/’gravel’ riding on them so solid and reliable is more where I’m looking at.

I have just bought a set for my Tripster, for winter commuting duties.

There’s a good chance I’ll be doing some light touring/bikepacking/’gravel’ riding on them so solid and reliable is more where I’m looking at.

I had originally bought the SP24 spoke ones but seeing as I intend to do some light touring/bikepacking/’gravel’ as well I swapped them for some J bend 32 spoke ones.

only 0.4lbs heavier.

I’ll report back when I have run them.

@Vortexracing ah nice one – thanks!

Do they seem pretty decent out of the box in terms of quality? I’ll be interested to see what you make of the free hub click, I have memories of a mates Pro3 on his racer being pretty loud…

I have and had a load of Hope wheels, the freehub noise doesn’t bother me at all 😆

I’m thinking of getting a pair of these for my CdF, how did you guys get on with them?

Daffy – Member

Crests on Kings were 1.55kg.

Without spokes?

Mine have been faultless up to date

I’ve been using a pair as my winter / commuting wheelset, shod with some fatter tyres (alongside a pair of lighter Kinesis Racelight Discs with skinnier tyres).

They ride nicely and look very durable in comparison with the the Kinesis – the rims are quite deep and have a shot-peened finish.

If you are on a quest for light weight, then there are lighter alternatives – but few will match the longevity or serviceability.

Thanks guys… good to know… I think these may end up on my CdF build

Can the new 20Five rim take higher road pressures (85psi etc) rather than just lower cyclocross pressures, when running it tubeless? Is it equivalent of the Stans Grail in this respect? Not many rims do. Can’t find any info anywhere on max tubeless pressure.

Will be using Schwalbe Pro One’s – anybody found that they inflated easily tubeless?

Looking at the Hope/ 20Five (with it’s better stainless bearings) or I’ll go with a Grail comp wheels, both ballpark £350.

Mine have been faultless up to date

Mine too. Had them for getting on for 6 months, used on road and off on a grrrrrrrrrravel bike.

Currently set up tubeless with Schwalbe G-One tyres which are very nice indeed.

Mine too, faultless tough and really fast fealing tubeless. I’ve had then at 65ish on a long road ride but mostly run them about 50psi.

Wondering what pressures others use when running G-ones (I’m running the 35mm version)?

Wondering what pressures others use when running G-ones (I’m running the 35mm version)?

60psi on 38mm for me at 100kg.

Daffy – Member
Crests on Kings were 1.55kg.

Without spokes?[/quote]

Crests are ~380g per rim, so 760g a pair
King R45* are 165g + 275g, so 440g a pair

That leaves 350g for spokes and nipples to come in at 1.55kg

Assuming 28h and DT competition (~6g per spoke) means 336g for spokes, brass nips would take it to about 1.6kg, but use Alu or lighter spokes and <1.55kg is easy!

I ‘aint no weight weenie but I do like facts 🙂

*even ISOs are only ~ 500g a pair so with light spokes 1.55 still achievable

Only issue I’ve had with mine was getting tubeless tape to seal.

As they’re are 20mm internal I assumed 21mm Stan’s tape but could never get them to stop deflating and weeping sealant from the spoke holes. I ended up using 1″ gorilla tape (uncut) and using a tyre lever to press it under the rim hook and shape it into the bead.

50psi on 35mm GravelKing SK’s

Reading with interest. I am currently running Charge Plug own brand hubs on Alex rims and looking to loose a little weight from the bike. I am running G-One’s tubeless (went up first time) at 40psi on the gravel and up them to 60 on road rides. The bike has taken over from my carbon road bike full time and even with the G-One’s is not noticeably slower on the road.

I had nearly pulled the trigger on Hunt 4Season gravel wheelset but was thinking Hope 20FIVE, the HUNT’s come in a bit lighter but I have had Hope Hoops on my hardtail for years and they have been faultless.

Anyone rate the HUNTS over the Hope?

I sent an email to Hope last night, and they emailed me back at 830 this morning! Excellent customer service.

They say the 20mm internal 20Five rim is rated to 120 psi with tubes. Asked wether I can run higher pressures tubeless 60-80 psi likely with my 25mm Pro Ones, he said that it would be OK. It seems like the rim is a Grail alternative, but with the Pro4 hubs the added advantage of the stainless bearings over a Stans Grail comp wheelset, plus Hope build quality. Buying a set from Merlin who have 5% off at the minute…

Evans seem to have 10% off pretty much permantly but only centrelock non-straight pull.
I had a lot of sealant come out round the valve (stans valve only hand tightened) and they were a bit of a pain getting them to inflate first time. Without riding on them they haven’t stayed inflated, will find out tonight when I try to go home whether that’s been fixed.
If you are used to hope hubs these have a dissappointingly quiet sound.

Are yours rs4 hubs or pro4’s? I see the rs4 has 2 rather than 4 pawls to reduce coasting friction and sound i guess. A set with pro4 and normal spokes after discount is £110 front £190 rear at the minute with Merlin. Else its the grails at 345 at winstanleys. My last set of wheels pro3 on open pro’s have held up fine – i cross quite a few cattle grids on a ride…

Yes it’s the RS4 hub, I thought for hope own wheelsets that was the only option.

I have a pro4 version rear. Lovely and loud. (Sure it’s not the RS)

A little trouble getting a 40mm G-One to fully seal tubeless (think slow puncture) but ok after a week or so it held pressure fine.

Hope told me good for 90psi tubeless

Were the schwalbes reasonably tight on the rim so that you can inflate with a track pump? I’m using Schwalbe pro one’s. The current rims on my Roubaix look tubeless but the Schwalbes are so loose on the rim, its not possible to get any seal. Quite like to get to tubeless. The spokes keep loosening every ride and there not butted even which is why I’m shopping for new non shonky wheels.

took me a while to get my 20five’s to seal around the valve.

… I switched to Stan’s fluid and re-taped then they sealed no bother
(on Nano 40’s and running at ~40psi)

Schwalbes went up easily with a track pump, valve core in place.

Running 70psi for a pannier laden 100kg rider 2×20 mile commute.

I have used 28mm the ones, 30mm S ones and both 35 and 38mm G ones on mine and they have been great, went up easily and are still straight as a die. That includes some touring and quite a bit of off road stuff

I had a right mare getting one of my G-ones to go up tubeless. They are a loose fit on Hope rims. You need at least a couple of layers of stan’s tape.

Odd. Opposite experience here.

Ooops double post

Yeah, Mine were tight as a Nun’s Proverbial too.

You need 2 wraps of 25mm tape and pretty much anything will go up with ease. 40mm G-one here.

My freehub was supplied with the quiet(er) pawl springs on a pro4 hub shell.

If using 25mm tape are people pressing the tape right into the spoke hole groove/recess? How are people getting the valve seated and sealed?

I have tried but found the tape not sitting into the grove very well and the sealant leaking round the valve with it as tight as fingers will allow, i appears the valve does not sit in the groove very well? (Stans 44mm valve)

How are others going tubeless on these rims?

I struggled at first, if coming out of the valve it will actually highly likely be coming under the tape somewhere into the cavity, then out the valve. I used gorilla tape and had to re tape a few times, I had wide tape I could make the width needed, I tried twice with it in the grove just covering the spoke holes, when that failed (twice) went wider. It ended up wide enough so when first applied it covered the width of the rim, when I pressed it down after it kinda sinks into the middle a bit but not fully.

Had to go wider than I have on any rim in the past. My front is taped as above and holds pressure well, upto 90psi. The rear (using slightly thinner tape) I need to redo sometime as above 60 it loses pressure gradually.

To me the spoke access holes look too big as your tyre ends up partly sitting on the tape. Unless i’m doing it wrong

Little tip I find works for tubeless: Tape the rims then stick a tube in and inflate it pretty hard, then leave for a few hours/overnight to make sure the tape’s properly stuck down. Haven’t had any problems that way. Think I used two wraps of 25mm tesa tape for these.

As for the wheels themselves, they’ve been rock solid for me – Use my cross/gravel bike on mtb trails fairly often, which ends up banging the rims quite a bit, and they haven’t even slightly gone out of true. Very pleased with ’em.

Yeah I nearly ruined my thumb getting the taping done. Pushed very hard into the spoke hole with two very well overlapped wraps. Take your time press it in hard and bobs ya uncle.

Would I have any issues at all running 40c Maxis Rambler Tyres on this wheelset.

The stock wheelset on my new Whyte are 23mm internal, where these are only 20mm internal.

Any issues anyone can foresee?

No, no problem I can envisage.

I run 40c Nano’s on my 20five wheelset no issues at all, they give the tyre a great shape IMO.

Thanks Marc