HULLO!

Im going to keep showing you my new bike for AGES i reckon.
im very chuffed with it 🙂

I am currently using the taperlock washers, and a Bolt up QR like these

its ALMOST holds it completely solid.
but im getting to the level of leaning on the allenkey to do it up where the allen key is flexing, and im getting nervous, mainly because the “nut” part of the setup is alloy i think!

has anyone considered, using a section of threaded bar steel from homebase (6mm 1000mm for 2 quid ish)
and then fitting some nice chunky flanged nuts on each end (with washers) to allow what i would imagine would be a much stronger binding. (if a bit heavier)

if i did do it, i could also then but a “homebrew bolt up” on the patriot too, as i would have plenty of threaded rod!

the other option is to get another axel, and Tap it. so its basicly like the Pro2 Bolt up QR….

B&Q threaded bar is very soft and not very strong. I would be very cautous about using it like that

Buy a chain tug. Designed to solve the exact problem you are having.

+1 on the chain tug suggestion.

Careful with the amount of torque you try to put into those bolt up QR. I had what appears to be same ones (Brand X or similar) and one sheared off the first time I tightened it with multi-tool.

Suspect they are made out of a cheese blended alloy…

You won’t strip the alloy nut unless it’s cheap. You may well round out the allen bolt though.

was initially looking at getting a chaintug, that is ALSO the taperlcok washer, so it sits on the inside and is tidy.

having a tug that only supports the QR is a bit of a dodgey way of doing it surely?

On one are currently suggesting running the washers backwards.
that strikes me as even more of a bodge!

I’ve never had a problem using a simple deore quick release.

that another option i considered.
not sure whether they would be able to do up tighter or not.
would certainly be able to reset it quicker!
might give that a bash

having a tug that only supports the QR is a bit of a dodgey way of doing it surely?

Never had a problem, used a chain tug + q/r on a singlespeed MTB and fixed gear high G.I on road, no bother.

What TJ said.
Threaded bar from B&Q and the like is not high tensile, it will strip far too easily.
If you want to go that route, get proper HT threaded bar from an engineering supplier.

MidlandTrailquestsGraham – Member

What TJ said.
Threaded bar from B&Q and the like is not high tensile, it will strip far too easily.
If you want to go that route, get proper HT threaded bar from an engineering supplier.

High Tensile studding from an engineering supplier isn’t always stocked and can be difficult to get hold off.

Standard EN8 studding should be strong enough i would have thought

has anyone considered, using a section of threaded bar steel from homebase (6mm 1000mm for 2 quid ish)

No. What’s wrong with a cromo axle from your lbs for about £5-7 or am I missing something?

to fit in a bulb?

One or two chain tugs should do the job nicely. Got some 10mm ones from eBay a while ago like these and had to file them down at the ends so that they would fit far enough forward in horizontal dropouts but other than that they work a treat. No problem when getting the wheel out either.

I’ve heard of people using shimano saint 10mm axles with a track nut for a properly secure fit for single-speed. But never a 6mm threaded bar. Can’t imagine it offering much more than the bolt-up type skewers. Mind I suspect that with some chain tugs that what you’ve got would be sufficient.

If that’s the Halo bolt-up skewers you’re using, don’t worry about stripping the thread, the skewer itself will snap first 😉

My rear axel on my fat bike is Bnq stainless threaded bar in vert drops – it is strong enough for that . For this he wants to rack on it with loads of pressure rather than get the correct bits so I wouldn’t suggest it