Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Home exercise tips to make benefit of bouldering please.
  • dannymite1981
    Free Member

    hi i have just started bouldering and would like to gain a advantage on my co boulderer’s (mates) by doing a little extra training at home but im not sure what to do.Any help much appreciated.

    peterfile
    Free Member

    if you’ve just started bouldering, i’d avoid fingerboards for now, it can be a quick way to a lot of pain if your fingers aren’t ready for it.

    General strength and flexibility training would useful! Focus on your core – so many guys I know just go for big arms (and sometimes big legs).

    frogstomp
    Full Member

    If you have strong door frames you can practice finger hangs from those (fingers towards the edge of the frame to spread the worst of the load down the sides).

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    dannymite1981
    Free Member

    Thanks i’ll try that.

    donks
    Free Member

    Beastmaker 2000 is what you need

    neilnevill
    Free Member

    what peter said. take head, or pop finger pulleys

    ico86
    Full Member

    Yup I agree with the above wholeheartedly. Fingerboards are to be avoided for a good long while or your house will echo to the sound of popping ligaments and screaming tendons. It’s not a good feeling!

    At this stage it’s best to rely on time down the wall to build up your finger strength gradually. Maybe you could get a pull up bar? But not to bash out loads of chin ups, you want to be doing dead hangs, L sits and leg raises to build up your static and core strength. Like this:

    training guide ish.

    but with a pull up bar.

    For the offset hangs you can use a hand towel draped across the bar then grab the bottom of the towel with your lower hand.
    Take it easy though, over training leads to the finger/shoulder/elbow injuries that are all too common down the wall!

    Cougar
    Full Member
    antigee
    Full Member

    stretching, core, visualisation – one of those elastic band thibngs to do some oppositional stuff to the pulling muscles especially rotor cuffs
    competition to push you is good :-)pushes you
    competition is a cause of serious injuries :cry:don’t be pushed too far
    or try this if you don’t get better at least you can get back

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    core, flexibility and mind control (and how the monkey held the key)
    Most of the best climbers I know are the scrawniest people. If your anywhere near grit though you need to get better at slapping slopers and holding them.
    If you have a garage or of your serious a cellar then some big fat round slopers to dead hang is good.

    [video]http://vimeo.com/54009000[/video]

    stever
    Free Member

    Stretching, planks, press-ups, dips. Chatting, drinking tea and eating cake are all popular too.

    Yak
    Full Member

    I wouldn’t bother with strength, power or anything like that as you just starting out. You’ll make far better gains through improvements in technique and time at the wall/ crag.

    If anything, do things to keep healthy and avoid injury – so plenty of stretching and not overdoing it too soon. Eat soon after a session etc.

    Also try to vary your terrain/rock type or you’ll get good at one thing only. So if at the wall, do balancey slab stuff as well as steep cranking. Do other peoples problems, work your weaknesses.

    Visuallising the moves in advance too really helps. Don’t just wade in and thrash yourself endlessly on a problem. You only get a few goes at your limit before you need to rest, so really think it through.

    That’s my 2p worth anyway. Have fun 🙂

    ti_pin_man
    Free Member

    been bouldering for a couple of years and taking it more seriously last 6 months. Slowly improving. My advice based on what I’ve done to improve in order of relevance at home:

    1> core and back exercises, 3 or 4 times a week.
    2> stretches, if youre on a cyling forum chances are you might ride a bike and as such your hips and leg flexibility will be pants.
    3> fingerboards – they are the best for upping grade but as others have said not for beginners as its easy to damage pulleys/tendons. once you’ve upped your climbing to 2 or 3 times a week then consider it as an option. Ned Feehally has a beginner set of open handed repeaters that I’ve been using but listen to the pain in your fingers and back off at the slightest twinge.

    pull up and press ups are limited in actually helping you boulder, they arent an answer.

    look up maris lopez for gym work, most gym work is irrelevant but she has about 6 set that allegedly help.

    The best advice is the best training for bouldering is more bouldering rather than anything else. I’m about to build a woodie in my garage to train. Its addictive. From bouldering ‘socially’ for a while, by training, I’ve upped my regular grade to hitting Font 6C+ and hope to have 7a soon. The one word at the core of the whole bouldering ethos has to be Gradualism, look it up.

    Good luck.

    vmazie
    Free Member

    I have found this book really useful
    http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9outof10climbers.html

    Also watching other people and keep practicing.

    Cougar
    Full Member

    Also watching other people girls and keep practicing.

    You want to learn to climb well? Watch how the laydeez do it.

    martinhutch
    Full Member

    Ignore fingerboards and even door frames. Good party trick, but you’ll risk knacking your tendons if you’re relatively new to climbing. I don’t even think that pull-up bars are that useful, except for hanging and exercising core.

    Flexibility -hip flexors, inner thighs.
    Core work – planks, raises, that kind of thing.

    The best thing to do is just climb, and watch how good climbers move their centre of gravity and place/weight their feet. That will race you up a few grades pretty quickly if you can pick up some of that technique.

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