I’m 6ft 1″ so might be a bit on the small side, thanks anyway

pfffffffffffft just get a reet long seatpost

The idea mentioned above of a Fuel EX with Pikes and big tyres sounds like a good one, could be the perfect UK trail bike (for me at least). Short enough travel to be snappy and responsive but the frame seems pretty robust.

Re Blur 4X and rear tyre clearance – a Conti Gravity 2.3″ fits fine although isn’t the widest 2.3″ tyre in the world.

I kind of agree with the comment about pedalling in the granny ring – they is a fair amount of pedal feedback but you can always dial in some pro pedal to fix that. I tend to flick the Pro Pedal on (lightest setting only) on the way up and off on the way back down – problem solved

The one issue with sticking big forks on a “normal” XC/trail bike is that ideally you want a nice steep seat tube to get your weight forward when seated on the climbs, a la Blur 4X or Dialled Alpine (HT I know!)

I don’t know what the seat angle is on a Fuel EX for example but it might get a bit wandery on the climbs

one of them with pikeys?

Jfeb, you might be right but the Ex comes with 130mm forks as standard so I hope 10mm extra won’t make it too wanderery on the climbs (assuming A-C difference is 10mm as well). I’ve got an Ex and a spare set of Pikes so I’ll hopefully be abe to find out soon…

dicky – Ah. Hard to imagine 10mm will make that much difference to climbing then.

Whats that yellow thing then nina?

Was just going to ask the same thing myself… Must be European I guess as it’s got an “fsr” chainstay pivot…?

Nox Flux 4X

http://noxcycles.com/cms/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=22&category_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=168&lang=en

Looks like one size only – 15″ seat tube: http://noxcycles.com/cms2/images/specs/nox_techdaten.pdf

Very good, would be ideal if I was a short arse, dont think a 15″ short frame is going to do everything I require. Would no doubt be a scream on the BMX track though.

I really like the look of the sinister.

what about one of these?

Banshee (Mythic in the UK) have got a good website/blog thingy, some nice looking bikes, tempted by a Legend myself….

http://bansheebikes.blogspot.com/

….seriously, go with the 4x, step up the headset (kk)with step up bottom race and with u turn pikes you get a super responsive and slack 115mm at both ends – a perfect jumpy trail machine trail machine. like mentioned earlier in the thread get an rp23 for the uphills. yeahthere is a trade of pedalling uphill but not that bad compared to similar steeds. Why they (sc) discontinued I’ll never know – a second gen in the pipeline? most probably!!! fingers crossed

Blood looks and sounds mint, well thought out for maximum fun and versatility, and I’ve heard good reports from a couple of folk who’ve ridden them.

do you not think the blood looks too industrial – square stays et al? – a bit Nicolai -ish? – it doesn’t do anything the 4x cant – except hurt you a bit more on the way up to the top of the run.

rancho – interesting way to run a Blur 4X (step up headset and Pikes wound down). It hadn’t occurred to me to run it like that. It is much different compared to simply running the Pikes a bit longer?

To be honest, Id just sack it off and get a decent all round hardtail

I’ve been down the short travel full sus route (Old Specialized sx) and although it was a bit more comfortable and provided a bit more grip on the rough stuff, Im not sure whether it was actually any quicker.

The big difference comes when you do jumps (im assuming you mean properish type jumps rather than undulations in the trail), they just soak far to much up and just seem a bit too unpredictable. If you get one with an air shock you could pump it up really hard but then its sort of pointless having the rear sus in the first place.

My SX also seemed to be a flexy thing when jumping aswell (probably a common thing with 4 bar linkages) I remember doing one of the hip jumps at Glentress (not particularly extreme, I know) and it felt like the back wheel was by my side as I was turning and pumping the take off. Horrible. My single pivot patriot seemed a bit stiffer though, although it felt really sluggish on small jumps (like those at glentress) and was a bitch to manual and bunnyhop.

You have lots of travel in your legs for absorbing bad landings, 4 inches of travel doesnt make much difference.

There are a few advantages to having a little bit of travel, but for general larking about (jumps/drops and a few bikes rides) you cant get any better than a decent hardtail with 4/5 inches of travel at the front and decent geometry.

er…it just gets u lower down, taking advantage of an already low bb?? – just remember to plug in short crank arms and lo pro flats. highly recommended tho’ I find a 70mm stem works best but if u want the full 140 switch to a 50mm stem.

And the best thing about a hardtail is there real cheap and far easier to clean. And you dont have to replace bushings and bearings every 6 months and have your shock serviced every twelve

just sack it off and get a decent all round hardtail

classic, probably the best advice yet

classic, probably the best advice yet

Im full of good advice.

That just about sums it up, also something that can handle a session on the BMX track and doesn’t soak up all the jumps, light enough to pedal all day and strong enough for 6ft drops….

Can I also have the moon on a stick please?

But honestly, a hardtail probably fits those criteria better than a short travel full sus. Full sus is just worse for jumping, its a fact.

Must admit I do like riding my other bike, GT Zaskar, a custom built Curtis freeride might be worth thinking about. At least I’d get the geometry I want. The demo should be good at glentress, I’ve lined up a Cotic, a few hardtails and a CX bike to ride. I’m not in any great hurry to buy so will take into consideration some of the advice on here.

I’m planning on test riding a hemlock at some point over the summer when I’m back in the UK.

Cy, do you deliver to Australia?

also, would that be vat free?

Bigrich Essence bikes sell them in NZ

Went out for a ride last night on my Enduro just in the local park and I got my brother to bring his 456 because I wanted to see what all the fuss was about and even with a really rubbish set-up it felt great really snappy and chuckable. When I got back on my Enduro it just felt wollowey and a little numb. I do like having an FS for comfort and when I mess things up.

DT is right saying that the FS just soaks things up too much I was finding little jump and bumps to throw the bike around on last that I dont normally feel. Granted the FS is faster when pointing down and much better on DH runs or anything relatively bumpy but the 456 was fantastic in the way small bumps turned into jumps.

Im after the same type of bike as filthy so may retire the Enduro for DH stuff only when I find my moon on a stick.

What about a Trance X?
Alright, its not ‘Gucci’ enough to impress some of the brand whores who frequent STW but they are certainly tough enough (the standard Trance is often to be found being hammered down 4X tracks).
5″ of travel, can be built up with 6″ travel forks if you like it a bit slacker at the front, they are relatively cheap and the savings can be put towards a better spec than you would have had with an over-priced alternative or put towards the cost of going somewhere overseas where you can really get some use out of it.
Also the bonus of buying from a well-established importer rather than some ‘mom and pop’ operation is that if something does break (and bikes made for ‘hooning around’ on sometimes do) then its more likely that you’ll be able to get the replacement part in the same year you order it in.
Oh and Orange have probably one of the most hit and miss warranty policies in the industry, which hardly inspires confidence in their confidence of their own product.

Filthy – Member
Whats the tyre clearence like on the Blur Higgo, plenty of room for some 2.35’s ?

How do you find the pedaling in the granny ring if its got one?

I_Ache – Member
…I got my brother to bring his 456 …the 456 was fantastic…

Tyre clearance is tight but OK on the Blur 4X. I’ve had dual-ply Maxxis Minion 2.5s in there which just cleared. I’ve also had 2.4 Nobby Nics which buzzed the stay bridge. At the moment I’ve got ADvantages in a (big) 2.25 and they’re fine.

There is some pedal feedback in granny. It’s the kind of thing that I notice for the first few seconds then forget about while I wind up the hill. I’m sure it’s thereall the way, I just don’t notice it.

IAche – coincidentally I have a 456 as well as a 4X. The 456 is a fantastic bike but it’s not direct competition for the 4X. I know before I set off if I’m on a 456 ride or a 4X ride. Although last Saturday I was going out for a ride that would have better suited the 456 but I just wanted to ride the 4X. So I did and it was fine.

A mate had a Trance (not an X) and really didn’t get on with it, pedal strikes, flexy rear triangle and bearing wear.

It’s a bit steep angled to isn’t it? Some good deals out there though.

Bigrich, as pointed out above, Essence Bicycle in NZ would be your best bet for purchasing in Oz. Essence

I had to say I agree with davidtayforth. I’ve got an orange alpine (the prototype one with 140 at the rear)and a Dialled Kobe, both with Talas 36’s. The orange gets ridden in the peak (proper) and alps, where it’s fantastic. But almost everywhere else (most places in Wales, lakes, peaks (lite), Warncliffe etc), when I expect to be hopping off things and generally messing about, I’ll ride the Kobe. It’s just generally more fun, up and down, as it’s easier to bunny hop, manual, etc, and with tubeless set-up you get a bit of bounce over the rough stuff as well.

What about the Specialized Pitch with longer forks on?

What about the Specialized Pitch with longer forks on?

Only the small version of them looks any good. The others look like they have a wheelbase thats about a foot to long to make them any fun

But they are warranted to 160mm forks. But still a bit long in the travel at the back to be snappy and poppy. Bloody hell I sound like in writing for MBR!

I have a plan that involves a frame that is a 3 or 4 years old with only 100mm travel and has a reputation for being strong. It also has a long tt and a steep seat tube so should make a decent all day bike. I dont think it will take Wotans or 36s but should manage Pikes and still keep a steep enough seat tube for climbing! Just need to find one the right size now I already have the build on my HT so fingers crossed.

The answer is not Orange Blood, too short to be riding all day but it would make an excellent indestructable trail bike for a shorter rider. 6ft 1″ on a 17″ was a bit cramped.

The hemlock is starting to look like a no brainer considering the difference in price accounts for a rase seatpost and coil shock for the long rocker plates. I’ve got van 36’s and air pikes so it will be 2 bikes for the price of 1. Cant wait to ride one in april.

Still tempted by a steel hardtail aswell but I think I really want something with a bit of skill compensation and comfort for longer rides.

Has anyone seen or ridden a Hemlock with a coil shock?

Or you could get the Hemlock with both rockers and with the left over cash get an Alpine frame and put the pikes on it and have it built up all but the wheels and share the wheels between the two bikes! If you put the same headset on both frames you could even swap the forks around too so having effectively 4 bikes for the pirce of the Blood!

My Hemlock has a coil shock on it, as I already had one of the correct length and stroke. Feels great, but then so does the stock air shock.

If you’re going for a coil on a Hemlock you’re pretty much restricted to a Fox Van as all the other shocks I’ve looked at have piggybacks which are too long so run into the down tube at full travel. There shouldn’t be any trouble in terms of ride feel as the leverage is progressive in both options, just more so in the short travel mode, and mildly to prevent too much bottoming out in long. You have to design like this with modern air shocks as they’re very linear with big cans and long stroke. It’s the mid-stroke where you have to be careful in the design of air shocks rather than the ends.