Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)
  • Help – Can't remove Pike lowers
  • Entonox
    Free Member

    Hi

    I noticed some extremely bad wear on my Pike Air U-turn stanchions – around the '130mm' mark (that appeared very quickly as I clean and inspect them regularly) so I though I'd investigate.
    I've removed the lower nut and bolt and knocked the air shaft up but when trying to slide the lowers off I've found that they come to a firm metallic sounding halt about 2 inches below the 140mm mark.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks

    TheSwede
    Free Member

    Strange. Heeeeaaaave.

    Rickos
    Free Member

    You've undone the top 24mm jobbie, right?

    fivespot
    Free Member

    Have you removed the rebound knob, and then undone the holow bolt it goes through ? nothing on top needs to be removed to get the lowers off !

    IA
    Full Member

    Sounds like you've not done the rebound side properly. The damper side extends further than the spring assembly rod.

    No need to undo anything up top!

    Entonox
    Free Member

    I didn't think anything on top needed removing?
    They've been Pushed, does that make a difference?

    Yep, both legs have the lower bolts removed – hollow bolt from the damping leg and airspring leg nut. The airshaft has been released by tapping it with a mallet.

    I've yanked pretty hard – there is defo something internal stopping them.

    ?

    Simon
    Full Member

    Have you tapped the end of the damper rod?

    nuke
    Full Member

    I've yanked pretty hard – there is defo something internal stopping them.

    Feels like there is but there isn't. Had the same on some Reba forks recently…just couldn't figure out what it was that could be stopping them as there was technically nothing that could be holding the lowers on. I'm pretty sure that it was actually just the bottom of the damping rod kind of binding to the inside of the base of the fork leg.

    retro83
    Free Member

    when you say 'sort of binding', you did tap boths sides out with a rubber mallet or similar?

    nuke
    Full Member

    when you say 'sort of binding', you did tap boths sides out with a rubber mallet or similar?

    Previously never really needed to give it more than a tap on other RS forks but these were proper solid and it did take a bit to free it up.

    Entonox
    Free Member

    How hard shall swing I on it then?

    Don't fancy hitting it a hammer.

    Entonox
    Free Member

    Tap both sides?

    Entonox
    Free Member

    Ah
    Hold on…

    Entonox
    Free Member

    Sorted, cheers.

    I've got the service guide in front of me-
    Using a plastic mallet, tap 10mm shaft nut (left) and rebound shaft bolt (right) free.
    How can you read something so many times without actually reading it? Numpty.

    Ok next question – the stanchion is really badly worn – about the size of a 50p. The forks are old so it's pointless spending big £££ on them for a new set of stanchions. I've got new seals and foam rings for them.
    I've had great success in the past fixing gashes with clear nail varnish. Would it be trying this trick on the worn area?
    Will it continue to quickly wear even with the new seals and rings fitted now the stanchion coating is gone?

    Cheers

    IA
    Full Member

    IMO waste of seals putting them on knacked forks, they'll just kill the seals with all the crap they'll let in.

    REpair will be tricky. Remember even if you get new uppers the bushes will be shagged too and also need replacing. I'd change the oil etc, do the lower oil more regularly till they die (more). And follow the service guidelines on the next pair, you know how to get the lowers off now!

    IA
    Full Member

    Side note:

    "(that appeared very quickly"

    Everyone says this. It's cos the top layer is very thin. Ones it goes it's gone. "clean and inspect" should also include changing the lube oil and cleaning the seals properly occasionally. Foxes have the rep, but you see more dead RS.

    nuke
    Full Member

    Personally I wouldn't bother with the nail vanish. How were the old seals and foam rings…dirty and dry of oil?

    As IA says, change the oil and repeat oil changes more regularly as this will prevent further wear. The fork should still work fine although given the finish has been removed they may not feel as plush but I'd doubt you'll notice.

    Entonox
    Free Member

    Yeah pretty dry and dirty.
    They were last fully serviced in Jan 09. The lowers haven't been removed since then. I've done the damper oil a couple of times.

    I've been in the market for some new forks so they've been neglected unfortunately.

    So fit new seals or clean and renew the old ones? Don't really want to be throwing cash at them and they're not exactly cheap at £25.

    Everyone says this. It's cos the top layer is very thin. Ones it goes it's gone. "clean and inspect" should also include changing the lube oil and cleaning the seals properly occasionally. Foxes have the rep, but you see more dead RS.

    Yep, I thought Rockshox were bombproof in this department.

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