thanks nedrapier and ive seen a few blades like that last night while looking for some other bits… may have a go next time i fire up the forge!

😀 pics!

“wrench knife” Sorry!

Spanner Knife. Not quite the same though, is it?!

no worries, i was just curious as to what sort of kiln you had 🙂
I am eyeing up a little gas forge from a german company as i would like to be able to also forge some bladed at some point.

that would probably be the best way. my kiln cost me £1700, it does what i want brilliantly but it is kind of a one trick pony

assume it give you great control over temperature.
It was the nice thing at my old workplace.
I would just walk over to the heat treating department tell them what sort of steel i had used and how hard i wanted it, and they would do it in exchange of a bottle of coke 🙂

What wood is the handle of the largest knife – lignum vitae?

mikkel yeah, its fully digitally controlled, programmable to degrees and seconds… all singing and dancing ht kiln. ah the perks of an industrial workshop!!

andy R the wood is santos rosewood

Oh very nice … I like! 😀

I think you should also make some kitchen knives coz there will be more demand for them then the Rambo zombie dissecting knives. 😛

If you are making kitchen knives take that bolster off coz it wil destroy the whetstone or at least makes it very hard to sharpen. For kitchen knives I normally buy them without bolster unless it’s dirty cheap for messing about.

This sort of shape (pic below) is very comfortable for kitchen knives. The blade width should ideally be 3/4 of Chinese cleaver.

Takeda Shosui “Banno Bunka-Bocho” Kitchen Knife

yes but making kitchen knives is actually quite different to the knives i make. plus its only hard to sharpen a knife with a bolster if you are doing it wrong… 😉

daftvader – Member
yes but making kitchen knives is actually quite different to the knives i make. plus its only hard to sharpen a knife with a bolster if you are doing it wrong…

It’s hard coz I do not have my sharpen kit set up properly yet so it’s hard to sharpen … arrghhh …

Mine are all Japs King whetstone & Shapton class stone so I have to put extra attention to bolstered knives then those from the far east knives.

i guess it depends on the grind. all mine so far are scandi grind so sharpening that, even with the bolster, is simple. plus if you notice the front of the bolster is level with the start of the bevel so there will be no interference with a waterstone or flat diamond plate. even using on a lapping plate wont be too hard

daftvader – Member
mikkel yeah, its fully digitally controlled, programmable to degrees and seconds… all singing and dancing ht kiln. ah the perks of an industrial workshop!!

andy R the wood is santos rosewood

I’m only asking because when I was an apprentice I made a couple of screwdrivers as a present for my Dad and the handles of those were lignum vitae, from a Malaysian truncheon, of all things. The guy who owned the company had been a policeman out there.
Nice to see an olive handle too.

Mine are just Japanese chisel (30/70 I think), double bevel or compound bevel grinds whatever they are. 😮

Oh some good stuff from Fiddleback Forge

the olivewood was a bugger as its only the heartwood that has the patterning so from the block i had i didn’t get much… lignum is now a CITES II wood so very very rare and expensive, those screwdriver handles will likely outlive the screwdrivers!!. i do have something similar in characteristics that is called bulletwood, blunted my bandsaw blade!

It’s hard coz I do not sharpen properly yet so it’s hard to sharpen …

FTFY

And good word Vader, lovely bit of craft

thanks piemonster

Lovely. Super desirable. Top work*

*I don’t want to add any more superlatives in case I appear disingenuous but really brilliant, well done.

thanks jimjam

Hi Tim, these look amazing I might be in contact with you later in the summer for one. Thanks for the racks, they’re perfect. Hope your coffee arrived okay and nobody stole your cake John

Hi John, no worries and the cake was safe!!! 😆