I am about to build my first wheel using a surplus hope pro 2 front hub. I am look for a good value 26″ rim to do my first build on. A stans crest or arch look a bit pricy and i can not seem to find any old stock of 355s. I would prefer a new rim to give me the best chance of getting it straight and true. The wheel will probably end up being a bit of a winter wheel

Suggestions?

ND

Mavic EN321 or XM317 depending on how heavy duty you need, both will build into good wheels, but expect a minor kick at the joint on the 321(nowt to worry about, just be aware that it’ll rarely be perfectly true).

It almost doesn’t matter too much. Something off eBay or an old lbs maybe. It’s more about following building instructions and taking time initially I think.
My first pair used old spokes and rim on a new hub and ended up great. Weirdly my 2nd pair (all new parts) went slack/wobbly!

I used a mavic 321 for my first (only) build, purely because I’d been given it.
Built up fine, but like coatesy says, it doesn’t like to come true at the joint.
Also hope proII. Spokes and nips From rose (dtswiss comps)
Wheelpro book is great, built a truing stand for free, and great wheel building instructions.

Edit: coatesy also gave me some good pointers for building mine, cheers min!

No problem, might also be worth looking at Mavic EN521, a little bit more expensive, but with machined surfaces it’ll be easier to get true. If it’s not perfectly straight to start with, you’ll have a nightmare getting it evenly tensioned and true, not a good situation at any time, let alone your first build.

I’d get a rim you want to keep.

Often the spokes cost as much as the rim so you don’t want something you aren’t going to use very much ‘cos it’s not the right one for your riding.

You’ll end up trying to find a replacement with the same ERD and compromising if you just get a cheap as chips sale rim from somewhere.

+1 for EN521, but it’s a pinned AM/FR/Enduro rim now, not V-braked anymore, you’re thinking of the EX721 (wich used to be a 521, which was the V-braked DH rim). No strength difference between pinned and welded, welded just worked better with V-brakes and was marginaly more true arround the join as they’re ground flat afterwards.

Stiff rims are easier as they go out of true predictably rather than in huge uncontrolable wobbles while you tension them up. My first MTB wheels worked first time, my road ones too 4 attempts with a spoke tension meter!

Just go for something cheap off CRC, most of the strength is in the build anyway. I got some Funn XLraters for £16 each in a sale, they’re now back upto £40+.

Superstar Sentinel Rim

I’ve built up a set of the 29er version of these on pro 2s. I smashed a set of the “bombproof” Bontrager mustang rims up before this. These have been abused a lot, and I’ve had no problems, think a rebranded stans flow but lighter and you won’t go far wrong

B*llocks to Mavic.

These days I would choose WTB, every time. Tubeless compatible and a lot cheaper than Stans. Built a few wheels with them and they’ve always been (1) straight, and (2) easy to true up. CRC tend to discount them, too.

I’d go for the ST i25 – £33 @ CRC.