going tubeless with one set of wheels - what tyres?!

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going tubeless with one set of wheels - what tyres?!

37 posts & 30 voices | Started 2 years ago by megastream | Latest reply from uplink

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megastream - Member

After 5 punctures on the last 2 rides I'm going to go tubeless on my Stans 355 wheels.

As I've only got one set of wheels at the moment, what would be a good tyre to stick on and fill with gloop? I'm running Jones Mud-x but don't want to be stuck with mud tyres when things start to dry out?

Not after a what's best debate, just opinions on tyres that are suitable for wet and dry conditions - must be nice and lightweight.

Hopefully in the next 3-4 months I can get another set so I have tubless summer and winter wheels.

Posted 2 years ago #
soobalias - Member

what you want is a good all round tyre.
dont go too lightweight, you need the sidewalls to hold up.

if you like your mud-x perhaps go for a tubeless ready jones?

Posted 2 years ago #
Sponging-Machine - Member

Kenda nevegal
Maxxis Advantage
Specialized Captain

Posted 2 years ago #
megastream - Member

Yes I'm after ideas on what is a good all-year tyre.

I don't need them to be tubeless ready as I have Stans rims and will be fitting the yellow strip / NoTubes solution.

Posted 2 years ago #
Jon Taylor - Member

Mountain King 2.4? Black Chili Supersonic.

They don't gloop up very much and have decent volume. Lightweight, but the thin sidewalls of the supersonic version are a worry, but they got me round Dyfi last year with absoloutely no problems. I've had them on a year now and haven't ever been left behind by mates nor stuck in mud.

They're pricey now though

Posted 2 years ago #
Scienceofficer - Member

I'm running Bonty TLR Mud x's on Stans flows at the moment.

Its not really a mud tyre and I think it rolls pretty well considering. That said, at the rate the rear is wearing, it'll be a semi slick in time for summer anyway.

Its easy to pop off tubeless tyres (tyres that you are using tubeless), although it is a bit more of a faff. You can usually capture nearly all the sealant and re-use it too.

Posted 2 years ago #
b r - Member

Nobby Nics 2.25

Posted 2 years ago #
younggeoff - Member

Nobby Nic 2.25 seconded

Posted 2 years ago #
Sponging-Machine - Member

Forgot the Conti rubber Queen.

Posted 2 years ago #
qcamel - Member

I have Crank Bros wheels that are tubeless compatible. What else do I need? Puncture juice and a specific valve? Is it that simple, sorry to be dumb just never used them before..

Posted 2 years ago #
barca2 - Member

That'd be all qcamel. Tubeless wheels, tubeless valve, tubeless tyres and some seleant. I hardly use any liquid at all.
Whip the core of the valve out, stick the valve in the rim, fasten it up tight with the washer, fit the tyre, pour a little of the fluid in the valve, refit the valve core, fit the head of a track pump or Co2 cannister, insert as much air as quick as you can.
Sometimes, lots of washing up liquid on the rim helps the tyre to slide all the way to the edge of the rim thus creating a seal. I needed it on my Specialized Storm Control 2bliss and Mavic tubeless rims.
It's possible to bodge a non tubeless wheel with non tubelss, tyres, 20" innertubes and seleant but that's for the poor people.

Posted 2 years ago #
qcamel - Member

Many thanks, I am on it......

Posted 2 years ago #
dickie - Member

I run Tubeless Nobby Nics on tubeless (Crossmax XL, Fulcrum Red Metal 3) wheels.

Posted 2 years ago #
vinnyeh - Member

FWIW I don't fret about having to change tyres at all, anymore. A blast from a CO2 inflator gets them seated everytime, then it's just a few minutes of the tubeless dance. Guaranteed to seat the tire everytime, no need to faff around with washing up liquid, sweat over a hot track pump etc. If it deflates overnight, slosh in a bit more juice and reinflate just before your next ride, and the ride should seal any more leaks. Sure, it costs a few pennies each time I change the tyres, but it makes it nearly as easy as changing a tubed tyre.

Posted 2 years ago #
DezB - Member

AllTerraincycles have some silly cheap deals on tubless tyres at the mo (as well as loads of other stuff)
Just bought myself some £40odd quid Hutchinson Barracudas for £16!
(postage is £3.99 on everything, unfortunately)

~~http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/ct/2_Wheels%2Band%2BTyres/17_Tyres/197_MTB%2BTubeless/~~

Sorry -ignore that, they seem to be one of these companies that list stuff that are not in stock. Gits

Posted 2 years ago #
Strangelove - Member

Nobby Nics thirded or is it fourthded? Never felt the need to change them at all

Posted 2 years ago #
nickc - Member

Another on Nobby Nic tubless. Had them on all through the crappy winter, never felt the need to swap them for "proper" winter tyres. They're a bit draggy for summer, but I'll just change the rear to a racing Ralph

Posted 2 years ago #
thevanman - Member

One tyre to do all??

Nobby Nic all the way!

Posted 2 years ago #
Pawsy_Bear - Member

High roller LUST 2.35 on front Advantage LUST 2.1 rear

Posted 2 years ago #
giantjason - Member

another fan of Nobby Nics........although i have just changed the rear to a maxxis crossmark that has very little drag due to the trails being dusty!!

Posted 2 years ago #
Picto - Member

Tend to go with Captains (LOL) and Fastracks (old school but fast rolling).
Ride them all year round but I ride mostly on Cannock Chase and its not usually that claggy.

Posted 2 years ago #
Northwind - Member

Nevegals I reckon, not the UST ones, the standards work very well tubeless. Done me fine everywhere I'd want to take a bike, Fort William to the local canal path.

I'd like to try Rubber Queens or Nobby Nics next mind.

Posted 2 years ago #
matthewlhome - Member

just tubeless the mud-x s for now. I run mud-x until about april / may and then use jones acx for the rest of the year.

Having said that, i have just put some 2.2 jones acxs on my other bike and intend to leave them on all the time. The ACXs are light and roll a bit faster than mud-x. Similar tread pattern and almost as good in most mud.

Posted 2 years ago #
megastream - Member

I've ordered the Stans bits, should arrive tomorrow.

For now I'm going to go with my Mud-x'es as they don't look that different to Nobby Nics.

I did have a split about 1cm long on the tyre that I patched up on the inside with gaffer tape, hoping this won't cause any grief.

Just checked out the Stans website - going a little OTT stabbing the tyre and riding 25 times over a bed of nails! this stuff could be the end of flats for me?

Posted 2 years ago #
Scienceofficer - Member

If that 1cm hole isn't sealed perfectly it probably won't seal.

Its also potentially more prone to further damage since without inner tubes, the side wall has no support, especially if the threads of the carcass have been damaged.

Depending on the tear, you could superglue it, sew it with dental floss and then put a standard inner tube patch on the inside to give a proper seal.

Difficult to say if its viable without seeing the damage.

Posted 2 years ago #
Bimbler - Member

Having said that, i have just put some 2.2 jones acxs on my other bike and intend to leave them on all the time. The ACXs are light and roll a bit faster than mud-x. Similar tread pattern and almost as good in most mud.

+1

Posted 2 years ago #
gingerflash - Member

Nics used to be my favourite all-round tyre but I found the sidewalls far too fragile and they wore out very quickly. not that good in proper wet conditions either.

I quite like Mountain King 2.4s but again, they're a bit fragile and roll about a bit on narrow rims. I split the sidewalls quite a few times on Peak and Lakes rock. They're not very good in mud either.

My current favourite is a 2.2 Rubber Queen. Very grippy in all conditions. Reasonably fast rolling. About 550g. Quite a tall profile as well so great for cushioning the rear of a hardtail.

Posted 2 years ago #
specializedneeds - Member

If you go for non-UST Kenda's, get an SWS version. They have a tape added around the sidewall to reduce cuts (a real pain for tubeless, as the sealant struggles to re-seal sidewall cuts and can force you to fit a tube or scrap an otherwise good tyre). Nevegal SWS have worked fine for over a year on my Stan's rims without the weight penalty of UST or LUST (or any flat tyres in all that time).

I think I read about non-UST Kenda's being difficult to seal due to relatively porous sidewalls, but I've had no problems. I think the SWS strips helped here: when I first installed them air leaked (a tiny bit) around the edges of the strip but not through it. You can still find Nevegals etc with SWS online.

Posted 2 years ago #
Pippalarge - Member

I think the tyre in that stans video is probably 100% full of sealant!

As an experiment a punched a small hole in a tyre i was replacing with a bradawl (pointy tool thing). The tyre had the recommended amount of sealant and went straight down. Saying that it does seem to prevent punctures on the trail.

Whenever i inflate using a C02 cannister it seems to create a big lump of solidified sealant in the tyre - anyone else have that problem?

Posted 2 years ago #
ballsofcottonwool - Member

Nobby Nic is much better than the Jones ACX TLR which burps horribly.

Posted 2 years ago #
nosedive - Member

Big Earl 2.35, hook up really nicely in all but the worst mud (at which point they are unrideable but hey ho). Wet compound on the front, dry on the back. Lovely big fat but light tyre and proper tubeless so you don't need a rim strip

Posted 2 years ago #
iain1775 - Member

run Nobby Nics year round onthe H/T for last 18 months
just switching to 2.2 Rubber Queens now
Also Maxixs tyres - High Rollers on my full susser, some of the others are good year round too

Posted 2 years ago #
DaveGr - Member

I've run Nevegal (Rr) /Blue Groove (Fr) on Stans and think this is a good all terrain combo. Also run Nobby Nic (Rr) / Rocket Ron (Fr) but slit the sidewall of the Nobby Nic and ripped a nobble off whilst in Wales so would look at this more for Enduros where speed is more important and terrain not as rufty tufty. Had a problem with a nevegal puncturing / ripping but this was due to it being worn.

Have been using Just Riding Along sealant and that's been forming a ball recently - use CO2 cannisters and not sure if that's the cause or not. Might have to invest in a compressor soon.

Posted 2 years ago #
Pawsy_Bear - Member

Its recommended you change the sealant every 6 months I think. Never ripped a side wall tubeless or tubed . Maybe I dont ride hard enough LOL

Posted 2 years ago #
specializedneeds - Member

Maybe it's where you ride. I've cut both front & rear 2.1 High Rollers within metres of each other on the final decent of the Penhydd trail (well known for it according to the bike shop at the centre). Have also cut a sidewall in a Mud-X on some flint in the Chilterns. On both occasions the cuts were too much for the sealant but I carried on with tubes fitted. Maybe I was unlucky and they are both pretty lightweight tyres with thin sidewalls..... If you're going for Kenda non-UST anyway the SWS makes sense though. Convinced it helps with the initial seal as well.

Posted 2 years ago #

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