Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • going 1×10, a question
  • robgclarkson
    Free Member

    i’m going 1×10 (from 2×10) and i wondered; do i need to buy a new cassette and chain?

    it’s worth mentioning that i’m installing the Leonardi “General Lee” 11-40T conversion on the cassette. i’m also getting a new single chain ring up front.

    but, i’m trying to do this on as much of a budget as possible, my cassette and chain aren’t that old, and haven’t had a huge amount of abuse, so, do i really need to spend the extra £60 or so to change these too? is there any other test apart from suck it and see?

    br
    Free Member

    Probably best to install the conversion on a new cassette, so at least it’ll be all worn the same.

    If you’re bothered about replacing a half-worn cassette, wait until it’s worn before converting?

    robgclarkson
    Free Member

    wait, wait?!?! what is this concept you speak of… impatience is my down fall i’m afraid 🙁

    stevied
    Free Member

    I don’t think impatience and budget really go together 😉

    Do you really need a 40T rear?

    M1llh0use
    Free Member

    so are you using a 38t front?

    deadkenny
    Free Member

    2×10 to 1×10… no new cassette and chain normally. You’re only usually changing the chainring set up at front and binning the front mech.

    But yeah if you’re getting the General Lee then depends how worn the cassette is but also the chain. Worn chain will mesh fine with worn cassette but not with a new General Lee so you’d end up with skipping on half the cassette. New cassette will balance it out but then worn chain on new cassette will skip too, so new chain.

    Maybe keep the current cassette and try that first then decide if you really want the General Lee as it’s a fair expense. You doing particularly steep hills?

    Oh, and the General Lee only works with SRAM cassettes I think, and may have to be the higher spec ones. Unless they support Shimano now too. It’s all to do with the spider arrangement and how many seperable pieces they come in.

    p.s. I’d recommend getting a thick/thin chainring. Something like a Works Component, Wolf Tooth, Raceface and I forget who else are doing them, aside from SRAM on the XX1 of course, though you could do that if you’re willing to fork out for an XX1 crank – which will work with 10 speed. But the other options are much cheaper, and work perfectly. You won’t have a dropped chain with those, especially paired with a clutch mech.

    robgclarkson
    Free Member

    no, i’m using a 32T front and yes i do need a 40T rear… if i want to be able to use my bike accordingly…

    yes, i know that people can survive with a 36T rear, but not me, i am not worthy to call my self a man am i? 🙁

    ChunkyMTB
    Free Member

    30T Wolftooth ring up front with 11-36 out back. Gets up everything for me. Cheap poor mans effective xx1 type set up.

    robgclarkson
    Free Member

    gone for the works components 32T up front, it’s the smallest they do… uk made and thick/thin teeth because again, it’s the XX1 cheap way i’m trying for too.

    robgclarkson
    Free Member

    deadkenny – Member
    2×10 to 1×10… no new cassette and chain normally. You’re only usually changing the chainring set up at front and binning the front mech.

    But yeah if you’re getting the General Lee then depends how worn the cassette is but also the chain. Worn chain will mesh fine with worn cassette but not with a new General Lee so you’d end up with skipping on half the cassette. New cassette will balance it out but then worn chain on new cassette will skip too, so new chain.

    Maybe keep the current cassette and try that first then decide if you really want the General Lee as it’s a fair expense. You doing particularly steep hills?

    Oh, and the General Lee only works with SRAM cassettes I think, and may have to be the higher spec ones. Unless they support Shimano now too. It’s all to do with the spider arrangement and how many seperable pieces they come in.

    p.s. I’d recommend getting a thick/thin chainring. Something like a Works Component, Wolf Tooth, Raceface and I forget who else are doing them, aside from SRAM on the XX1 of course, though you could do that if you’re willing to fork out for an XX1 crank – which will work with 10 speed. But the other options are much cheaper, and work perfectly. You won’t have a dropped chain with those, especially paired with a clutch mech.

    yes, there is now a conversion for the shimano cassette, and i have a clutch mech also

    as i feared, ii’m gonna need a new cassette and chain then… yey, spending money, woop!!

    njee20
    Free Member

    Worn chain on new cassette is unlikely to skip, it’ll just destroy your new (half) cassette in no time.

    Do it properly with a new chain and cassette or don’t bother. Why not try with your existing 36 first? IMO the General Lee is a lot of money for half a cassette. You may find X01 comes out and is similarly affordable before long.

    deadkenny
    Free Member

    X01 being 11 speed though so new chain, new cassette, new mech, new shifter.

    robgclarkson
    Free Member

    not to mention new free hub too….

    i have XX1 on another bike and love it, but i can get most of the XX1 type features quite cheaply doing it this way….

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

The topic ‘going 1×10, a question’ is closed to new replies.