Is anyone running ghetto tubeless on their fat bike? Thinking of giving it a go on my fatboy as it seems the most reliable way to go. What tubes are working best? I had a quick go with a 20″ bmx tube I had lying around but unsurprisingly was no where near wide enough.

Watching with interest. Struggling to get BR710 rim to hold a seal despite lots of careful taping with gorilla tape and about 150ml of stans.

Would a 20 inch fatbike tyre be any wider?

I sometimes wonder having been through this….

Get something really light but full of holes and add stuff to it to make it tubeless so it’s as heavy as a tubed wheel…

The br710 is a great rim, really light but rammed full of holes…. I believe it’s possible to do a ghetto split tube job on it to go tubeless….

I did the Maths and the cost sums ending up with ICAN carbon wheel set posted at a better price than all the other stuff and then popped up tubeless first go….

The UK fatbike fb page is pretty helpful, have a look. There are also good vids on YouTube….

Ghetto tubeless on my Voodoo Wazoo.

I used some 24″ 2.5 tubes with a presta valve and a £5 camping mat from Argos to fill the central void, over the original rimtape.

Works perfectly, though a smidge more width in the tube would have been nice. I didn’t end up trimming off any excess as it was very close, but yeah, works well.

done my halo tundrus ghetto, using a Maxxis 20 or 24″ – can’t remember.

Been faultless.

Well worth the pain.
Don’t worry about the lack of weight saving.
It’s all about the extra feel & lack of pinch punctures.

Thanks sounds promising, not too fussed about weight just something reliable to run low pressures. Seems worthwhile for the cost of a couple of tubes. Anyone remember where they found the wide tubes with presta valves? Can only seem to find schrader.

Semi-ghetto with fatty strippers has worked well for me.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fatty-tubeless-summary-methods-actual-weights-847560.html#post10292858

Has anyone managed this on standard on one wheels? I struggle to make my tyres fit even with tubes.
Pictures please of the camping mat as I can’t fathom it’s usage.

I currently have DT 710’s tubeless with a Schwalbe BMX tube, split carefilly along the moulding line.
With some careful (just a few mil here and there) trimming it fits perfectly in the rim bed a bit like the old skool stans rim strips. Scwalbe JJ 4.8s aired up easy enough and it works a treat.
I”ve also used Surly RD’s for ages with no issues and Marge lights.

Nextie carbons are the easiest of the lot, but they have the unfortunate downside of cracking on sharp rock. Expensively…

I struggled to get my on one rims to seal.
I eventually got them to go up using tape and a strip of window insulation foam to make a groove for the tyre to sit in.
Even with this and 4 scoops of stands in each wheel, I found they would still leak and be flat within 48 hours.
Can’t be arsed with the hassle now so gone back to tubes until I get some carbon rims.

On one rims with fatty and bud, 24″ presta tubes with removable cores. Did take a while but now all good. Had to strap bud down as it was rather loose but no one died.

Halo Tundra, On one 24″ fat bike tube with foam laminate insulation to raise the centre and create a tighter seal to the tyre. Split tube, put tyre on, add stans and it went up with a track pump. Been up and at the same PSI for 3 weeks now. I did it as I do a lot of peaks riding and my last On One Fatty turned into a flatty every outing. Now with the Bucksaw I decided to go tubeless.

Pictures please of the camping mat as I can’t fathom it’s usage.

Picture not my own but you get the idea.

Just cut a length of foam the width of the ‘valley’ inside your rim, leaving enough room each side for the tyre bead to drop into. Wrap it around the rim, tape the join, make a valve hole.

I’ve done mine (stock rims on a Dune; same as the On One Emmenthal among others) with foam-and-split-tubes originally, but now redone with foam-and-plastic-wrap. Both work well but the plastic wrap is obviously quite a bit lighter. The foam was a wee bit of a pain, I used jiffy foam and it compressed over time so when I went to change a tyre, it wouldn’t reseal- but adding more foam seems to have fixed that.

I’m just experimenting with yet another method which I think might be the best of all worlds, foam with wide PVC tape to seal instead of the shrinkwrap. It’s probably fractionally heavier but first attempt suggests it’s easily reusable which is a big bonus.

Oh- if you do split tubes, people often recommend the schwalbe AV10D but the AV10 works just as well and is a lot lighter. It’s just barely wide enough for an 80mm rim but just barely is the perfect width tbh.