I’m thinking of trying to assemble a track bike on the cheap. I’ve got a few questions.

1) There is track-specific geometry, isn’t there? As I understand it, it’s not the same as a SS road frame. Higher BB and possibly different angles?

2) Is the fork different to a road fork?

3) Wheels are the same, aren’t they?

4) I know the drivetrain is different but you can use road kit and chains, can’t you?

5) Cranks the same length as the road bike?

6) Any other setup tips?

Depends if you’re actually planning on using it on a track, in which case there are certain regs you have to adhere to…

Often higher BB than an SS road bike. Always steeper angles, shorter stays and cranks.

The indoor velodromes have very strict geometric rules, the shallower outdoor ones less so.

You’re in Preston with nowt to do, drive down the M61 to the Manc velodrome tonight and see what it’s all about?

Manchester track bike specifications

I think you’ll struggle to build something ‘ghetto’ that’ll meet their rather strict requirements. Of course, if it’s for the street go for anything you like

Going home tonight 🙂 Although Manc might feature in my evenings, and probably should..

There are cheap Chinese track frames and forks on eBay, I suppose I need to check their geometry to see if they comply.

premium on track stuff means parts are expensive. you might be better off buying an off the peg fuji or similar.

Where you looking to race? The ratios you choose will depend on the track.

Dolan full builds are quite good value for money, you’d struggle to build up something up to their spec for similar money. If the eBay frames you’re talking about are branded as visps, avoid, they weigh a ton and have aluminium forks

1) Steeper angles, higher BB. Tracks probably wont like you bringing frames with downshifter braze ons/cable guides.

2) Often have less rake, and generally stiffer (no need for bump asorption).

3) Often use narrower hubs, although this is less common these days, also more likely to use tubulars and no braking surface on rims. Realistically singlespeed road wheels will be fine if they fit the frame.

4) You can use any singlespeed chain that fits your chainring and sprockets, just watch out because there are two widths 1/8″ and 3/32″.

5) Cranks generally a bit shorter, but that’s down to the rider. If you dont have singlespeed specific crank and rear hub then chainline can be a pain.

6) You’ll probably find it hard to build something up much cheaper than a Fuji Track, unless you go secondhand, in which case you’ll probably find it hard to build something up much cheaper than a secondhand Fuji Track. Also most velodromes have bikes you can rent to try it out, these are often Fuji Tracks.

+1 S/H Fuji Track – I got one off the classifieds here for £130 (?) I think a couple of years back

Have a look in the branch of Evans Cycles next door to Manchester Velodrome, they’ve got a good selection of track bikes and parts.

Building a bike up cheap is not easy and you run the risk that parts aren’t compliant with track regs regarding geometry etc. Just make sure that what you’re buying is a genuine track specific model and not some fixie fashionista bike.

Dolan sell through ebay, I got a Precursa from them for £399+£20 posted which is the best deal I could find for a decent starter. Mine came with a road fork: drilled for a brake and slightly more raked/offset but just a tad.

My club has Fuji tracks as the main loan bike, they’re ok but heavy. There’s an aluminium version these days too.

Wheels need to be bolt up, rear 120mm spaced (same as road IIRC). Cranks tend to be internal BB to keep the q-factor low. High end track cranks now have external BBs. Chains and sprockets are either 1/8″ (traditional) or 3/32″ which is the same as road. 1/8″ chains aren’t designed for flex and as such tend to be recommended for track. If you have some road parts to build with then get 3/32 parts. 165mm cranks keep you clear of the front wheel, I think road cranks tend to be 170-175.

Also have a look at a gear inch calculator to see what ratio to go with, 81″ is a beginner’s gear with Manc recommending 84″ for their tasters.

Ebay user matttempleton’s shop’s called Single Speed Components does parts for cheap. I just got a new Dicta 15t sprocket for £5.50 posted, I’m chuffed with it!

Drop bar sizing appears to be narrower than road too, with the pros using as narrow as 33cm for aerodynamics. Don’t go too narrow to start, it’ll just be uncomfortable!

What parts have you got? Have you got a plan for the build?

I’ve got stems, bars, seatpost and saddles up the yingyang, and a selection of 170mm road cranks including a compact and a standard double. Not sure if the chain line will be right though.

If I hadn’t sold those wheels off my hybrid I’d have put them back on and used its R500 wheels 🙂

you can adjust chainline(to a degree) with chainring spacers.

Sugino RD2 cranks which I have also came on my Allez branded with a Spesh S (double), also came on my long gone Langster and are plugged into my mates Surly Steamroller. If your cranks take a square taper, just get the narrowest you can (see Velodromeshop online). Double cranks are fine. If not internal BB, chainring on the inside may also help.

Wheel wise your hybrid’s Shimanos wouldn’t have worked as they have a freehub, the Omega flip flop wheels knocking around ebay/the internet are the same as Navigator Street wheels at a fraction of the cost. The rims are made in France which I was quite impressed with, given they’re budget hoops 🙂