Recently built a on one inbred. Happy with the build but find for a 100mm travel hardtail recording through strava it is no more efficient on the climbs than my 160mm full sus enduro. Can a really descent set of 26” wheels prevail or is it a case of every component needs to be the highest spec possible to compete with newer technology bike.

Ride it faster? Are you blowing your limits on the climbs on the HT or are they really rough?

Not entirely sure what you mean pal. My local is Cannock chase so isn’t the most challenging but just finding I am having to work that bit harder on my ht than my full sus to let look at my strava results to see I am actually slower. The bikes weight is reasonable, geometry/ 100mm travel forks seem a great combo I kinder just put it down to the wheels. Maybe a good quality set of wheels would make a huge difference but don’t really know what to look for an seem limited wheel set for sale now with the new wheel sizes available

You can buy all the new stans rims in 26″ so if you want some go for it. Though not been to Cannock for a long time a HT should be easier round most of it, draggy tyres? Sometimes you can feel worse on a HT if your soaking everything up on the rest of the ride with your legs rather than suspension so maybe you just need to get settled into it an the different style of riding.

Cheers mike like you say maybe I need to get used to the bike. The tyres are great running a high roller front, ardent rear.

Saddle in the right place? Up, down, fore, aft. Cranks the right length? Tyres and pressures ok?

What differences are we talking? Did you just have a really good (tailwind assisted) day on the fs? What was the weather like on the different attempts? Was it just one ride or is it consistently faster on the fs?

No mate I would just say consistently faster on the full sus. I’m not really interested in the descent because I pretty much accept the enduro is going to be faster because I am pushing it harder but did except it to be easier/faster on the ups. My friend also had a go a he also said it does feel rather sluggish. I don’t want to give up and sell it but is 26” dated 650b/29 really are that much more superior???

Position wise yeah feels good and I’m running tubed, 29psi front 32 rear which I guess is fairly high for this time of year

To add I’m running 1×10. Was thinking of buying a xtr dereilleur to shave some grams but in honesty I don’t think will make much difference it’s just more bling hahaha

How much slower ware you on the HT? Brakes rubbing?

Was thinking of buying a xtr dereilleur to shave some grams but in honesty I don’t think will make much difference it’s just more bling hahaha

Yeah set away from the spending…
Is the gearing the same? My original comments were about you can pedal 2 bikes the same speed around because thats the speed you feel like you should be going. If you want to see if your going nearer your limits try a heart rate monitor and see what effort you are putting in. Try and push it harder on the HT and see if you can get some seconds off and lastly if it’s strava segments you are checking make sure you know where they actually start and stop – few locally the place we all regroup at the end is 10m before the line so the times are always off unless you push on till the end.

Or just go ride the bike.

No brakes aren’t rubbing at all. Hard to say an exact amount mate but if I look at each segment on strava on climbs I can see by that plotted graph on there I am slowing down from previous rides on my enduro. I must say it is making me fitter tbf. I’m only gutted because my pals were saying why you wasting you money building old 26er, I was like I’ll show you will be a machine to find it’s not…. would buying a set of wheels with for example pro 2s improve. I currently have an old set of superstar wheels. They run smooth ect but just wondering would this make a significant difference?

Thanks again for reply mike. I am enjoying riding the bike, more than I thought tbf find it much more active on the hardtail and make the descent more interesting rather than just ploughing through them on the enduro. Heart rate monitor sound a good shout pal

I’m only gutted because my pals were saying why you wasting you money building old 26er, I was like I’ll show you will be a machine to find it’s not.

Honestly I’d have to say you were wasting cash buying something that isn’t current simply for being able to pick up deals on new stuff.

would buying a set of wheels with for example pro 2s improve. I currently have an old set of superstar wheels. They run smooth ect but just wondering would this make a significant difference?

Maybe, possibly but would you be able to tell?

there is a lot of over thinking going on, as per my post above if you want to spend on anything a HRM to see what you kicking out might be the best thing. Maybe use something with virtual partner to see where you are on the trail and push yourself to beat it. Something with Strava live segments on it will tell you where you are as you go

Often you can keep a smoother pedal stroke going despite rough terrain on an efficient FS, and the FS may actually grip better than the HT in such situations.

Longer stem, it’s a short top tube frame so you’ve got to get your breathing space back somehow.

What tyres are you running on both?

If you’re rocking a Mary on the front of a 100mm hardtail then we might have found the issue 😀

Edit: just seen, Ardent and HRII are still pretty beefy tyres for a 100mm hardtail…

I think a very fit pro athelete might be quicker on the HT, but I found that my HT was slowing me down. I blame my lazyness/poor technique as I tend to get in the groove pedalling in the saddle. On the HT when crossing rougher terrain I have to get out of the saddle and probably stop pedalling. On the suss bike I can just carry on pedalling and plough over anything, only having to pause for pedal timing to avoid strikes.
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/why-is-my-140mm-trail-bike-quicker-climbing-than-my-140mm-hardtail

I feel fairly spaced out on the bike think the stem is 70mm. The efficiency may be a god point I do find I some terrain instead of being able to just pedal I’m like bouncing up and down so could be a good point. To add the high roller says 60a on it which think is compound but not sure if that’s soft or hard without researching. I’ve been looking at 29er trek superfly but do I just stick at it and beef the legs out a bit of the 26er

I have an OnOne hardtail and a 150mm full sus and find that the full sus is just as quick on the ups, which I guess you could put down to the fs tracking the ground better and the 650b wheels carrying a bit more rollover momentum.

Longer stem, it’s a short top tube frame so you’ve got to get your breathing space back somehow.

I don’t understand why people always say this? The further forwards you have to reach, the more you have to hinge at the hips, which restricts the movement of your diaphragm. Have you ever seen a runner bent forwards to get more breathing space?!

Full sussers are faster than hardtails up and downhill. This was tested many years ago. Just enjoy the ride for what it is rather than throwing money at it.

IME, tyres and tyre pressure make the biggest difference. Apart from some tyre designs having lower rolling resistance, I also find a brand new tyre a bit slower than a partially worn one. Whenever I fit a new rear tyre, my climbing times drop slightly, then edge back up again after a few rides.

Also, higher tyre pressures aren’t necessarily faster. Use a good quality pressure guage and try different pressures for a few rides.

Depends on the trail, but on bumpy/rooty/juddery climbs I find full sus faster as it just allows a more consistent, smooth pedalling action. yes, it’s lazier and easier, but overall it’s also faster. Bigger wheels are also better in this situation as they do roll over little bumps better.

On a road/fire road/smooth climb I’d expect a hardtail to be faster though.

Short travel, lightweight, 29er full sus for ultimate climbing.

What simondbarnes says, really ^^^^

If you enjoy riding it then I wouldn’t be bothered about saving seconds or throwing more money at it, which will probably make bugger all difference. The beauty of having different bikes is that they’re, well, different, so don’t try to replicate what you can do on one with what you can do on the other.

I mainly ride two bikes, a rigid singlespeed Hummingbird and a 160mm travel 301. Mostly the 301 (with it’s crap 26” wheels….) is faster everywhere (except on some punchy climbs) but I don’t compare the two – it’s like comparing apples and oranges.
I’m too old to give a shit about times anyway.

Thanks for all the input guys, the local trails are fairly stoney which does give a fairly bumpy ride. From what been said above maybe like you say save the money and just keep riding it and ignore the speeds. I do enjoy the bike for the simple reason the trail up and down do feel harder rather than on my full sus I don’t really have to think it just soaks everything up so will probably keep it. Just don’t look at my strava times guys hahahha

Singlespeed your hardtail; you’ll become much less ‘efficient’ on the climbs, but you’ll get up them faster, because you *have* to – or it’s the walk of shame…

Except for the climb after you cross the main road on the monkey – then you’ll be prolapsing at less than walking speed

That climb if a steep one. I find myself breathing heavy in my biggest gear at the back so yeah single might kill me

I always thought the inbred was for having fun on. Not as if it’s a lightweight racing machine.

the local trails are fairly stoney which does give a fairly bumpy ride

Both FS and large wheels make a big positive difference when it’s rough and steep.

And why give a shit about Strava if you like riding the bike?

Faster tyres will make it go and feel much faster. Go tubeless while you’re at it. Should cost about the same as the rear mech but actually make a difference.