After yesterdays utter sludge fest thro the midlands finest grinding paste I was wondering. So I don’t want to have to strip every bit down after every ride so what’s best?? First off light hose, then a soapy wash 😉 then a dry inside. But what next, is a spray of wd etc in the moving bits that sound a bit rough tantamount to setting fire to your bike. I’m really unsure as to what’s best??? Main reason i ask is a set of swing arm bearings didn’t last a year!!

hose all the heavy stuff off
hot soapy wash with a brush for the nadgery bits
hose all over to rinse

simples………. 8)

Leave in the garage to dry, brush off later, lube as required before next ride.

industrial jetwash on full power for 30s. job done!

i’m about to go and clean my bike now…..
jetwash (low setting) all mud/grit etc off both sides
spray with fenwicks bike cleaner (like muc off, but better)
leave to soak for a few mins (clean shoes whilst waiting)
jet wash bike again, working from top to bottom, and ensuring all cleaner has been removed

obviously avoid fork seals, bearings etc

pick the bike up and shake it to get all excess water off
put in garage and allow to drip dry whils putting away all jetwash gear
wipe bike down with clean cloth to dry
spray some gt85 on another clean dry cloth and wipe all over bike
sprat some gt85 on chain, gears, around cables etc
done

sounds well long winded, but i do it for all my bikes (cyclocross bikes every weekend at the moment)
doesnt take long, and they look mint after every wash

oliwat +1, except I use the garden hose rather than jetwash..

gt85, lubricant for those that know.

gt85, lubricant for those that know

LOL – this is a post about cleaning though, not lubing……

Why buy a jetwash if you’re scared to use it on full power? a hose’d do the same job as “low setting” 🙄

Just wipe & lube the chain. Washing will only help grit get into other bearings & bushes.

Rejoice in a dirty bike – you won’t have to avoid the puddles next time out.

If you get it wet – from riding or washing – be prepared to dry it.

gt85, lubricant for those that don’t know.

FTFY

BigJohn – Member
Just wipe & lube the chain. Washing will only help grit get into other bearings & bushes.

I’m in this group.

I throw the bike in the bin and buy a new one after every ride.

Thing is someone told me wd40 is not good for any bearings etc as it breaks grease down , is gt40 the same??

And I meant gt85

yes, GT85 is good for getting water out the drivetrain and mechs, but not as a lube and definately don’t spray it near bearings, forks or shocks. It is good for water expulsion, pre lube, also helps stop rust on stem bolts, under the saddle etc . For lubing use some finish line green or similar, chain, jockey wheels, fork and shock legs – for the latter let it run onto seals, cycle the fork/shock a few times and wipe away what gets pushed up.

doubt if gt85 is problematic on the fork stanchions or shock shafts as it leaves a film of teflon which shouldn’t cause any problems . happy to be corrected though 😀

Car Shampoo is much kinder to paint and rubber seals than Muck-Off or similar as those are degreasers, car shampoo is much milder and wont attack rubber/paint/materials in the same way.

Degreasers are good for getting crap out of chains etc, its what they’re designed to do, get something like GUNK from halfords and dilute it, just make sure it gets nowhere near any surfaces you want to protect (paint) or anywhere you want even traces of grease to reimain. A capfull of the stuff cleaned out the buckets I used to change my engine oil!

Don’t get anything anywhere near your brakes, invariably its going to mess with something, wrap them in plastic bags before you start on the drivetrain.

Go for a quick ride up a hill once you’ve finished, works the lube into the chain and on the way down drag your brakes to burn off any traces of soap/degreaser/water/oils that have made it onto the pads.

TBH, I don’t bother, it gets hosed off if its going in the car, otherwise it might get a once over with the dirty water after doing the car and a suirt of lube on the chain.

Car shampoos tend to contain waxes which will remain on disc rotors and pads.

kaiser – Member

doubt if gt85 is problematic on the fork stanchions or shock shafts as it leaves a film of teflon which shouldn’t cause any problems . happy to be corrected though

Teflon is fine, its the solvents used in the can that are the problem, the propellant is butane, which if used as close range will cool components down potentially damaging them (especially stuff like rubber). The other hydrocarbons (its essentially petrol) will ‘dry out’ rubber making it brittle, a bit like tyres that have been left in the sun too long.

I just go get 4 minutes on the jetwash at Morrisons. Avoid using the actual high pressure wash and get stuck in with the hot foam brush. Finish with the spotless thingy which is basically just water pushed through an osmotic pump thing – in other words, very clean water.

Rachel

My process..

Leave bike on bike rack
Garden hose off the loose stuff
Spray bike with MucOff
Sponge down the whole bike (Takes 2 mins)
Rinse

Dry off the chain and sprockets,
then re-lube with chain lube,

then i go out up and down the road to dry off the brakes. Get them nice and steaming. Bike then goes in the shed ready for the next time out.

obviously avoid fork seals, bearings etc

I have trouble with this advice in practice as fork seals and bearings are exactly where the mud is likely to accumulate (i.e. around brake bridge, headset and BB). So what do you do?

jhw – just don’t spray muc off or similar straight on them – a little in the general area is okay long as you rinse it quick. If it’s not oily mud it’ll come off with water from a hose and a brush

8)SBZ where do you live I am coming to empty your bin

I blast with hose and put ‘t away and lube chain next time I use it

garden hose, wipe dry, then gt85 on anything that rusts (except brake rotors) – 10mins job done. Lube chain before next ride.

I do mine the German way….

Contrary to previous posts GT85 IS NOT a lubricant. Its a water displacer. You will want to use oil on your chain after a skoosh with GT85.

thisisnotaspoon ..sounds like you know what you are talking about however GT85 does claim to be safe on rubber . Also interested in what propellant other fork sprays use …certainly the one in juicy lubes fork juice evaporates pretty fast .

Mine was really muddy today so I cleaned it. Jetwashed in the garden, avoiding fork seals, BB etc, left it to drip dry, load of squirt on the chain this evening, job done. Might give the moving bits a squirt of teflon lube before the next ride.

Oh GT85 is 100% a lubricant as any fule no.

http://www.gt85.co.uk/about.htm

Jetwash = No way
Std pressure Hose = Yes
Wash major mud off first = Yes
Turn Upside down = Yes
Wash again = Yes
Fenwicks for 1-2 mins = Yes
Wash again = yes 😉
Wipe, Dry and Lube (GT85 only on crankset pivots and dry joints)

What chain lube do people use? I’ve got the lime smelling eco option (Green something?) but it gets claggy when cold and I’m paranoid about chain suck at the moment.

Interested in other good options, particularly in these muddy winter times.

Ta.

mcinnes – Finish Line green is designed for UK winter riding

where are the crankset pivots?

OOps – sorry typed in a rush – I mean’t mech pivots etc 🙂 😳

Thanks Iain.

GT85 isn’t designed to be used as a chain lube. It will soon wash off in this weather.

Use finish line degreaser / gt 845 to clean and use finish line x-country lube, after every ride.

All these things will give you the win.

What chain lube do people use?

I tend to use dry lube, as it gets less skanky and black than wet lubes (which are more sticky). Needs to be reapplied regularly, though.

One tip if your chain is in a bad way. Apply excesive cheap oil, spin it round / leave for 5 mins. Then wash teh whole drive train with hot soapy water. then when it is dry apply modest amount of quality chain oil.