I’ve got a Raceface Ride double crankset on the Parkwood. For training with Zwift, i need 1-2 more gears as i’m only able to hit an average of 270w at my desired cadence, any more and i’m spinning too high, sure, we can argue whether that’s a good thing or not, but i don’t want an in depth discussion on that 🙂

So i’ve got a 34 ‘big’ ring on it, with it set in the middle position on arms. I’ve got an old spare 42T that’s un-used, so i was debating fitting that. The question is where should i fit it though, middle ring position, or normal outer position ? It’s got a 2×10 shifter, so i was wondering if that would actuate to the outside position if i ask, or whether it’s designed only to go to the middle position? I guess the 2nd part of the problem could be clearance on the frame/swingarm if i try and fit the 42T into the middle position, it looks like there should be enough, but can’t really say yet.

Final option is to run it in outside position but with no mech and as a 1X10 on the 42T. I won’t be an issue for indoor training, but could have problems if i try riding it outside.

But of over-thinking i admit, just pedal at higher cadence could answer it, but for the 270w average on the 34T i’m hitting 95 cadence, which i’m pretty happy with.

Fit it outside, change it manually when you need to. Or swap to a 38 and fit a close ratio block on the back. 270 average is how many watts/kg? What are ou measuring it with? You can always just increase the resistance 😈

270w measured is with the Kickr Snap. round about 3.0w/kg mate.

The snap is smart so can’t change that for the flat sections. Hills obviously it’s fine and happy… but flat/slight down, i need a little ‘more’. It’s honestly not that much more i need, but it is at times just the wrong gearing. London Classique on Zwift for exmaple, mostly flat and i can’t quite get ‘race’ speed for a 50 mins race.

Is the smart resistance turned off then? Surely if not when you up the gearing the trainer will lower the resistance to compensate. Isn’t that how it works? You don’t need gears on a smart trainer unless you’ve turned off the smart part?

If it’s shimano shifter it will have a switch underneath to convert to 3x. You may need to reset the cable though as some run 2x in 1&2, others 2&3 depending on the generation.

If you put the 42 in the middle (replacing your 34) your shifting would be hideous and rub all over the place, if it ever made the shift at all that is 😉

Rubber_Buccaneer – Member

Nopes. It works exactly like a road/mtb mate. If you come to a downhill/flat and pedal at say a cadence of 100 in the hardest gear, on the flat that will generate for example 300w…. but when you go to a -2% down, that will only register 225-240w. My problem is, in a <1hr race, i need the flat power to be 330w or so for me to be in the hunt for a decent position. When you get to a hill, the resistance goes harder, meaning you have to change down through the gears…. it’s exactly the same as riding outdoors in that context.

benpinnick – Member

SRAM i’m afraid. But thanks for the info. I may just fit the 42 in the outside position then as a single ring, i don’t need the extra gears indoors of the smaller ring at all

Well that was an interesting if a little frustrating.

I had a spare set of Raceface Cranks, same as the ones i’m using, so that made things easier. Whippped off the 34T N/W that’s fitted and attempted to fit the 42 in middle position. First thing you notice is, that’s not possible. The curved edges are offset on the inside edge of the ring (The bit that locates on the spider arms), about 2mm difference on the middle ring and outer… So on this crankset at least, i don’t know about others, you cannot fit an outer in the middle ring position.
OK, so we move on from that and fit it to the outer, no problem, i needed some smaller crank bolts/backs, but i have them in the spares box and that’s done.
Again, we come back to a problem… the front mech won’t move out far enough as suspected, even if i completely wind out the adjuster screw, it’s not far enough, so it’s full on chain rub.

So, if i want to run a 42T on the front, i have to run it as single ring only and without a front mech. (unless i buy a larger middle of course) The problem with this is that IF i run it on the road/trails, then i’ve got only a 42T front along with a 34rear cog for any hills… Now, i’m not useless, but a 42T ain’t going to get me up some of the small steep bits locally, no how, no way.

So i’m left with 2 options.
1. Run the 36T/22T double and accept on Zwift i will not be able to race at my best.
2. Increase my cadence to 110rpm for Zwifting 🙂 which then will mean i can race with the pack

I’m sure i could get a 38T which may just about give me the gearing i need for Zwifting…

Was nice to spend 40 mins in the garage spannering, but the result is, that i’ve got the bike back as it was before i began hahahahaa.

Was nice to spend 40 mins in the garage spannering

yeah I saw your strava, whats the weather like where you are? 😛

LOL great… i spent 55 mins on Zwift earlier yes. It was just after i’d been out on my KTM 690 and met a mate for lunch.

I couldn’t really justify another hour away from the laptop, so i went on Zwift… the weather is lovely… but i spent 2 hours on the trails yesterday and i’ll spend 2 hours tomorrow….

I don’t know whether cost is an issue. But couldn’t you just buy a 28×42 double and fit that, SRAM do one

http://www.tweekscycles.com/Product.do?method=view&n=3517&g=840341&p=840345&d=124&c=4&l=2&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=MTB%20Chainsets%20&%20Cranks&gclid=CjwKEAjwzKPGBRCS55Oe46q9hCkSJAAMvVuMFXIt201Fq3UvcKBFwxbaJ8IK5kfUOuB7iiq_1Mc9qxoCRlrw_wcB

There cheaper ones as well (eg X5)

I feel I must be missing something

I was trying to do it without spending money really. I suppose i could offset cost by selling my Race Face Ride crank with N/W

I was trying to do it without spending money really. I suppose i could offset cost by selling my Race Face Ride crank with N/W

I tend assume its only me thats’s tight!!!