Can this be done without buying a new dedicated singlespeed rear wheel?
For example a standard Hope Pro 2 wheel be made singlespeed with a single cog and spacers? Can anyone point me a a good website that explains all this, and who supplies the requisite bits?
Cheers, Timmee
Sure it can - cog and spacers, chain tensioner and some shallower bolts to bolt the middle ring on in the absence of the big ring.
Try the on-one or superstar website for the bits - it's ages since I've done it on the MTB so I'm not up to speed with what people are using. It's all very generic stuff though - just the chain tensioner that might vary a bit in quality.
Thank you very much chappies! I watched the excellent videos on your link Tom and I feel a lot better informed - especially about the importance of drinking beer.
Buy it from Charlie too-he's just a nice man from swanage, and sometimes send extra presents with your order!
DrP
have a look at sheldon browns site on it too, I've successfully done it on a couple of wheels by filing down the axle to make some kind of chamfered flat spots on it which allow the wheel to be moved slightly backwards or forwards. Those wheels weren't as nice as hope though, so I'd probably go for the tensioner!
Buy a wide base cog to use on the soft Pro2 freewheel, or it'll chew it up.
What boxelder says is very wise. Wide based cogs available from many sources, but don't whatever you do use one of those cheap steel thin cogs. They'll cut a nice slice in the splines of your freewheel.
Another way is to go for the magic gear and do wthout a tensionewr. I have had issues with tensioners in the past both the BB mounted and hanger mounted types keeping chain tension.
To find you magic gear put the chain on your 32T middle ring (or whatever it is) and the cog at the rear that is in line with the middle ring. Wrap the chain around and bring the loose inner to the nearest outer. Do not join but measure what fraction of an inch you are way from joining. Each roller is 1/2" apart so that helps. Then each tooth you add to the rear or front cog add 1/4" to total chain length. So for example if you have a 32T middle ring and it lines up with the 15T rear cog and you are between 3/4" and 1" (1" is a inner + outer link) from joining the chain properly, so adding 4 teeth in total should give you 0 - 1/4" extra chain. So a 34T/17T ratio will allow the chain to join. Or take 4 teeth of and run 28T/15T for hill climbing and spinning out on the flats. I run my Orange evo2 on a 34T/16T ratio with something approching 1/4" extra chain. This seems perfect as I get no slippage even on steep climbs and the chain is not too tight.
Of course you can play arround with the ratio as well. If I was going to Cannock again I could fit a 32T/18T ratio and that use the same chain length i.e 1/2" of from the front and add 1/2" of chain for the rear. Moving to a 36T/18T ratio would require a chain with 1 extra inch.
Magic gearing is so simple and I have been using it for months. Also you can use you existing middle ramp chain ring. I have used a singlr speed ring and now a ramped 9 speed TA ring and I find no difference, the chain never comes of the ramped ring. I also has ditched a chin guide/chain device that I thought I needed once and yet again the chain stays one all the time. So keep it simple keep it magic.
I can also supply you with a the cogs and chain rings bolts you need. I run a small bike shop (The Cycle Clinic) but I am sure Chalie can help too.
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